Double Magnetic Catches for Double-Door Cabinets: Function and Selection

A double magnetic catch secures two independently closing cabinet doors at a single central point on the carcase using magnetic holding force.

When constructing double-door carcases without a fixed central mullion, installers face the challenge of keeping both fronts flush and securely closed. A conventional lock or a standard self-closing hinge is often insufficient to guarantee an even gap pattern. This is where the double magnetic catch comes into play. It combines two magnetic contact surfaces within a single housing, serving as a central anchor point for the pair of doors.

This guide is aimed at joiners and experienced fitters. It breaks down the technical specifications of double magnetic catches and explains how to select and install the exact component needed for your furniture project.

Key Selection Criteria for Double Magnetic Catches

Selecting the right catch is based on hard facts. A magnet that is too weak will allow doors to pop open in a draught, while an excessively strong magnet will eventually pull screws out of the substrate.

Holding Force in Kilograms

The holding force is the decisive physical value. It is specified per magnetic side in kilograms (kg). Typical values range between 2 kg and 6 kg per door.

• 2 kg to 3 kg: Sufficient for lightweight fronts made of chipboard or MDF with compact dimensions.
• 4 kg to 6 kg: Required for heavy solid wood fronts or large doors that exert greater leverage due to their own weight or mounted mirrors.

Installation Dimensions and Hole Spacing

The housing must physically fit inside the carcase without colliding with shelves or concealed hinges. Pay attention to the housing length, width, and height in millimetres. The hole spacing for the fixing screws is commonly 32 mm or 45 mm on standard models. Some models are designed to be screwed directly into system hole line drillings according to System 32, provided the catch is mounted on the carcase side rather than centrally under the top panel.

Housing Material and Magnet Type

Most housings are made of impact-resistant plastic. For heavy-use environments or heavy furniture, models with a die-cast zinc or steel housing are the more robust choice. Internally, ferrite magnets are typically used. For extremely compact designs requiring high tensile strength, neodymium magnets are utilised.

Counterplate Characteristics

The counterplate is mounted onto the door. A distinction is made between rigid plates and articulated (floating) plates. A rigid plate requires completely accurate installation so that it rests flat against the magnet. An articulated plate has minimal play, compensating for slight angular tolerances of the closed door to maximise the magnetic contact area.

Overview of Types and Options

Double magnetic catches differ not only in tensile strength, but also in their construction and specific field of application.

• Standard surface-mounted catches: The classic plastic housing with slotted holes for fine adjustment. Fixed with two or four screws to the top panel, bottom panel, or a fixed intermediate shelf.
• Heavy-duty double catches: Equipped with a metal housing and strong magnets (from 5 kg holding force per side). Ideal for commercial furniture or very large fronts.
• Double magnetic catches for glass fronts: These eliminate the need to drill into the door. The counterplate is designed as a U-profile that slips over the glass edge and clamps in place with a small grub screw or plastic insert. Typically suitable for glass thicknesses from 4 mm to 6 mm.

Which Catch for Which Application? (Decision Guide)

To make the right choice, you must analyse the material, weight, and location of the fronts.

• When building classic wardrobes with heavy, full-height double doors: Choose a heavy-duty catch with at least 4 kg to 5 kg holding force per side. Mount it centrally under the top panel. For very tall doors (from 2000 mm upwards), it is advisable to fit two double catches – one at the top and one at the bottom – to prevent warping of the fronts.
• When constructing bathroom cabinets: It is essential to choose a model with a completely enclosed plastic housing and corrosion-resistant counterplates. High humidity quickly leads to rust on unprotected metal housings. A holding force of 2 kg to 3 kg is ideal for small mirrored doors.
• When fitting low TV units or sideboards: A holding force of 2 kg is usually sufficient. Pay attention to the housing colour (e.g. black or brown) so that the catch blends visually into the dark interior of the media furniture and does not show through the door gap.
• When planning general cabinets with glass fronts (e.g. display cabinets): Use dedicated glass magnetic catches with clamp counterplates. Direct contact between metal and glass must be strictly avoided using a plastic interlayer to prevent stress cracking.

Professional Installation and Adjustment

Installation requires precision. Magnetic flux decreases exponentially with distance. A gap of just 1 mm between the magnet and the counterplate drastically reduces holding power.

Required Tools

• Cordless screwdriver
• Cross-head bit (usually PZ1 or PZ2, rarely PH)
• Bradawl or small punch
• Tape measure and try square

4-Step Installation

1. Positioning the housing: Determine the exact centre of the carcase base or top panel. The catch must be set back into the carcase so that the front sits flush with the front edge of the carcase when closed. Factor in the door material thickness and the counterplate thickness (usually 1.5 mm to 2 mm).
2. Fixing the catch: Loosely screw the housing in place through the slotted holes. Use chipboard screws (e.g. 3.0 x 16 mm or 3.5 x 15 mm) with a pan head or raised countersunk head. Do not tighten the screws fully yet, allowing for later adjustment.
3. Mounting the counterplates: The most common error is a misaligned counterplate. A proven workshop tip: place the counterplate directly onto the installed magnet. Apply a tiny drop of superglue or double-sided adhesive tape to the back of the counterplate. Close the door into its exact final position and press lightly. Open the door carefully – the counterplate will now adhere to the exact installation position on the back of the door.
4. Screwing down the counterplates: Secure the counterplates with countersunk screws. The screw head must sit flush within the plate countersink. If it protrudes, it will prevent full surface contact with the magnet.

Comparison: Magnetic Catches vs. Push-to-Open

In practice, these two systems are often confused, even though they perform completely different mechanical tasks. A magnetic catch has purely a holding function. It pulls the door closed over the final millimetres and holds it shut. To open it, the user must pull on a furniture handle to overcome the magnetic force. A push-to-open system (also known as tip-on) features an integrated spring mechanism. Pressing on the door releases the spring and pushes the door open. While some push-to-open mechanisms also feature a magnetic tip to keep the door closed, their primary function is ejecting handleless fronts. Never use a classic double magnetic catch on handleless fronts – you will struggle to open the doors without tools.

FAQ: Frequently Asked Technical Questions

How many double magnetic catches do I need for a cabinet? For standard doors up to approx. 1000 mm in height, a single central double catch at the top or bottom is sufficient. For doors over 1000 mm in height or those prone to warping (e.g. thin solid wood), you should install two double catches: one at the top and one at the bottom.

Which hinges should be paired with magnetic catches? Use concealed hinges without an automatic closing spring (unsprung) or simple butt/surface-mounted hinges. Hinges with an integrated closing spring generally make a magnetic catch redundant, unless the spring tension of the hinge has significantly weakened.

Why do the doors not hold properly despite fitting a new catch? This is usually due to the counterplate not making full surface contact. Check whether the countersunk screw in the counterplate is protruding. Another cause may be an incorrect gap: if the catch sits too far back in the carcase, the door hits the carcase edge before touching the magnet. Use the slotted holes in the housing to pull the catch 1 mm to 2 mm forward.

Can magnetic catches wear out? The magnet itself will not lose its power over decades under normal indoor conditions. However, what can loosen over time is the screw fixing in the wood. Continual pulling on the door exerts tensile force on the screws. If they work loose in the timber, the housing wobbles, creating the impression of reduced holding force.

Matching Hardware and Fittings

When planning your project, you will find all the required technical hardware components in our range. Look for the right magnetic catches for your specific application. Whether you are assembling robust wardrobes or outfitting delicate bathroom cabinets, ensure you select the appropriate holding force and housing material. For low-profile TV units, discreet, flat designs are ideal, whereas standard plastic housings offer a cost-effective and dependable solution for general cabinets.