Fitting Full Overlay Concealed Hinges — Step-by-Step Guide

July 31, 2026

A full overlay concealed hinge is used when the cabinet door sits flush over the carcass side panel when closed, completely covering its front edge.

The correct installation of furniture hinges requires technical understanding and absolute dimensional precision. A fraction of a millimetre deviation when drilling can cause the door to bind, create uneven gaps, or lead to premature wear of the mechanism. This guide is aimed at fitters and experienced craftspeople looking to mortise and adjust full overlay concealed hinges professionally in cabinet furniture made from chipboard, MDF, or solid wood.

The full overlay (also referred to as standard overlay) is the most common construction type for individual cabinets. The door overlays the side wall. In contrast, with a half overlay (twin) application, two doors share a central partition wall, whilst with an inset application, the door front sits entirely between the cabinet side panels. The geometry of the hinge arm differs fundamentally between these three variants.

Required Tools and Materials

Proper tools are essential for the precise installation of concealed hinges. Improvisation during cup drilling inevitably leads to damaged front panels.

Forstner bit: Absolutely essential. The standard diameter for 35 mm concealed hinges is exactly 35 mm. For very light or narrow doors, 26 mm variants are also available.
Drill or a powerful cordless drill driver.
Centring drill bit (optional, but recommended for the fixing screws).
Cross-head screwdriver: Typically PZ2 (Pozidriv) for the adjustment screws and the mounting plate.
Chipboard screws: Usually 3.5 x 16 mm or 4 x 16 mm with a countersunk head.
Measuring tools: Tape measure, try square, fine pencil or marking gauge.
The concealed hinge including the matching cruciform mounting plate.

Step-by-Step Guide: Fitting a Concealed Hinge

Installation is divided into two main stages: machining the cabinet door (cup drilling) and preparing the carcass side panel (mounting plate). The drilled hole must fit like a tailored suit – deep enough for the mechanism, but without breaking through the front panel's decorative surface on the visible side.

1. Marking the Dimensions on the Cabinet Door

The first step defines the vertical and horizontal position of the hinge.

Vertical position: The distance from the top and bottom edge of the door to the centre of the cup hole is generally 100 mm to 120 mm. For very tall doors, additional hinges must be distributed evenly in the middle.
Horizontal position (cup distance): This is the so-called C dimension. It describes the distance from the door edge to the rim of the 35 mm hole. On a standard full overlay hinge, this dimension usually ranges between 3 mm and 6 mm. Check the manufacturer technical data sheet for the exact specification.
Determining the centre: If the cup distance is 4 mm, mark the centre of the hole at 21.5 mm from the door edge (17.5 mm radius + 4 mm distance).

2. Drilling the Cup Hole

Place the door flat on a sturdy workbench. Place a backing board underneath to prevent scratching the front.

Position the Forstner bit precisely on the marked centre point.
Drill strictly vertically. A pillar drill or a mobile drill guide ensures a 90-degree angle.
The drilling depth for a standard hinge is typically 12.5 mm to 13 mm. Strictly observe the remaining thickness of the door. With a standard front of 16 mm or 19 mm thickness, only a few millimetres of material will remain.
Drill in short intervals and clear away wood chips to avoid overheating the drill bit.

3. Inserting the Hinge into the Door

Thoroughly clean all wood dust from the drilled hole.

Insert the hinge cup into the hole. It should fit snugly without being forced in with excessive violence.
Align the hinge arm at exactly a 90-degree angle to the door edge. Use a try square for this. If the hinge is twisted, the door will not close properly later.
Mark the positions for the fixing screws to the left and right of the cup.
Pre-drill these minimally with a 2 mm or 2.5 mm drill bit (approx. 2 mm deep) to prevent the chipboard from splitting.
Fasten the hinge using the chipboard screws.

4. Positioning the Cruciform Mounting Plate in the Carcass

Now the counterpart, the cruciform mounting plate, must be fixed to the inside of the cabinet. This is where the furniture industry standard System 32 comes into play.

The standard distance from the front carcass edge to the centre of the system holes is 37 mm.
The vertical height of the mounting plate must correspond exactly to the height of the hinge arm on the door. Take into account any planned door reveal (the gap between the top of the door and the top of the carcass).
Example: The door is to sit flush with the top of the carcass. The centre of the hinge on the door is 100 mm from the top edge. The centre of the mounting plate must then also be measured exactly 100 mm downwards from the top carcass edge.
Mark the drill holes (vertical spacing between them 32 mm), pre-drill, and screw the plate tightly in place.

5. Hanging the Cabinet Door

Modern fittings utilise clip-on mounting.

Bring the door with the fitted hinges up to the carcass.
First, hook the hinge arm onto the front lug of the cruciform mounting plate.
Press the rear part of the arm against the plate until it engages with an audible click.
Check that it is secure by pulling gently on the door.

6. 3D Adjustment (Aligning the Reveal)

Once hung, the door rarely hangs perfectly straightaway. A professional reveal requires fine-tuning using the three adjustment screws on the hinge arm.

Lateral adjustment (gap width): The front screw on the hinge arm. Turning clockwise reduces the gap between the door and carcass side (the door moves outwards). Turning counter-clockwise increases the gap. Typical adjustment range: +2 mm to -2 mm.
Depth adjustment (contact pressure): The rear screw (often an eccentric screw). It regulates the distance between the door and the front carcass edge. The door should rest evenly without putting the hinge arm under tension when closed.
Height adjustment: This is done directly on the cruciform mounting plate. Loosen the two fixing screws slightly, shift the door including hinges up or down by up to ±2 mm, and retighten the screws.

Avoiding Common Installation Mistakes

Even experienced installers make errors if the hardware specifications are not strictly observed.

Incorrect hinge geometry selected: An inset concealed hinge or a half overlay concealed hinge can never be used for a regular full overlay. The crank angle of the arm is completely different.
Cup distance too small: If the C dimension is chosen too small, the door edge will rub against the carcass side when opening.
Tear-out on the front panel: A blunt Forstner bit or excessive pressure while drilling will damage the melamine coating on the visible face.
Confusing dampers and opening mechanisms: A soft-close concealed hinge catches the door during closing and pulls it shut gently. This must not be confused with a push-to-open system. Both mechanisms work in opposite ways. A soft-close door cannot be combined with a mechanical push latch.

FAQ – Frequently Asked Technical Questions

How many concealed hinges do I need per cabinet door? The quantity depends on the height and weight of the door. As a rule of thumb for standard chipboard (thickness 19 mm):

Up to 900 mm height / 4-6 kg: 2 hinges
Up to 1600 mm height / 12-17 kg: 3 hinges
Up to 2000 mm height / 17-22 kg: 4 hinges
Up to 2400 mm height / from 22 kg: 5 hinges

Which opening angle should I choose? The standard for classic cabinet doors is 110-degree concealed hinges. This is entirely sufficient for normal access to wardrobes or kitchen cupboards. If internal full-extension drawers are installed, a wide-angle hinge is often required to swing the door completely out of the drawer's path.

Can I retrofit a standard hinge with soft-close? Yes, many manufacturers offer clip-on dampers that snap onto the hinge arm retroactively. Alternatively, a separate door damper (drilled-in buffer) can be recessed into the carcass side panel.

Why does the door not sit flush even though the adjustment screws are at maximum travel? If the lateral or depth adjustment range is insufficient, it is usually due to a measuring error during installation. Either the System 32 dimension (37 mm) on the carcass side was not maintained, or the cup distance on the door is incorrect. In this case, the position of the cruciform mounting plate must be corrected.

Related Components and Specifications

Depending on spatial constraints or cabinet design, standard full overlays reach their limits. In special carcass constructions, such as corner units in L-shaped kitchens or angled loft cupboards, angled hinges are used. The installation procedure remains identical; only the geometry of the concealed hinge changes according to the angle of the carcass side.

Specific angles are required for such bespoke configurations, including 30-degree concealed hinges, 45-degree concealed hinges, or 90-degree concealed hinges. For corner units with bi-fold doors, 135-degree concealed hinges or even 165-degree concealed hinges are frequently used to ensure maximum access into the carcass interior.