Highboard vs Lowboard: Key Differences & Hardware Guide

A highboard is a semi-tall cabinet unit with a typical height of 100 cm to 130 cm, whereas a lowboard is a low base unit usually between 25 cm and 60 cm high, primarily serving as a base for media equipment. Both furniture types rely on a similar carcass construction, yet they fulfil completely different mechanical and visual roles within a room.

This guide explains the structural differences, relevant dimensions for room planning, and technical details to consider when fitting hardware and drawer runners yourself.

What is a Highboard?

The highboard bridges the gap between a classic sideboard and a solid wardrobe or display cabinet. With a height of over one metre, it provides ample vertical storage space without entirely closing off the wall visually. The depth typically varies between 35 cm and 45 cm.

In terms of construction, Highboards generally consist of a carcass made of chipboard with a durable melamine coating or lacquered MDF (medium-density fibreboard). The fronts are often a combination of closed doors, drawers, and open shelving compartments or glass inserts. Because a highboard can quickly weigh between 50 kg and 100 kg due to its own weight and contents (such as crockery or books), a solid base panel with adjustable furniture legs (often with an M8 or M10 thread) is crucial to compensate for uneven floors. A popular design element for modern dining or living rooms is a Highboard Black, for example, which creates a monolithic effect through dark decors and handleless fronts.

What is a Lowboard?

The lowboard is designed for horizontal spread and low overall height. In most households, it serves as TV furniture. The low height of 25 cm to 60 cm ensures that a television placed on it remains at eye level for seated viewers. The depth is often 40 cm to 50 cm to provide sufficient space for AV receivers, games consoles, and associated cable management.

The category of TV Lowboards & TV Benches demands special structural considerations. Because modern televisions, soundbars, and heavy amplifiers bear down centrally on the top panel, the unit must resist sagging. This is typically achieved using a continuous central partition or additional support legs beneath the base panel.

Types and Formats: Finding the Right Width

The choice of width depends largely on wall length and the size of the television. As a rule of thumb: the lowboard should be at least 15 cm to 20 cm wider than the TV on both the left and right sides to maintain balanced proportions.

• Compact formats: A Lowboard 140 cm is suitable for smaller rooms, alcoves, or television screens up to around 55 inches.
• Medium formats: A Lowboard 180cm is the classic standard size for average living rooms, offering ample space for 65-inch screens and extra speakers.
• Large formats: For expansive living areas and home cinemas, widths such as the Lowboard 220 cm or even a Lowboard 240 cm are used. These long furniture pieces often consist of two joined carcasses, which must be connected completely flush during assembly using specialised connecting screws.

Materials and Finishes

The visual impact is determined by the decor and surface finish. A Lowboard Beige blends discreetly into light, Scandinavian-inspired interior schemes. Those preferring an industrial loft aesthetic often choose a Lowboard Concrete Effect. This consists of chipboard faced with a photorealistic melamine resin paper that replicates the rough texture of exposed concrete.

Special Case: Media Equipment

A dedicated HiFi Lowboard differs in its internal architecture. It features generous cable grommets (usually 60 mm or 80 mm in diameter) in the back panel and frequently in the intermediate shelves as well. In addition, heat dissipation from amplifiers must be considered. Open compartments or fronts covered with acoustic fabric (permeable to infrared remote control signals and sound) are common solutions here.

Selection Criteria: Highboard or Lowboard?

Deciding between the two furniture types or choosing a combination depends on three factors:

1. Storage requirements vs wall space: A highboard makes efficient use of vertical room height. It is ideal for lever arch files, glassware, or crockery. A lowboard primarily provides surface area and shallow storage for compact items (controllers, magazines, cables).
2. Room geometry: In rooms with sloping ceilings (knee walls), a lowboard is often the only way to utilise the space beneath the slope. Along long, open walls, combining a lowboard with an offset highboard creates an open, varied look.
3. Operating convenience of fittings: Consider how the fronts should open. Integrated recessed grips or surface-mounted handles are sturdy options. Handleless fronts require a push-to-open mechanism. Here, a spring-loaded pin pushes the door or drawer open by several centimetres following light pressure. This must not be confused with soft-close. Soft-close slows the door down during closing using a small hydraulic damper, pulling it shut quietly. Both systems require different hinges and runners.

Assembly and Technical Tips for DIYers

Assembling cabinet furniture demands precision. An accurately aligned unit operates like a well-oiled machine: all doors and drawers run smoothly without rubbing, and reveal gaps remain parallel.

Required Tools

• Cordless screwdriver with PZ (Pozidriv) and PH (Phillips) bits
• Rubber mallet (for wooden dowels)
• Spirit level (at least 60 cm long)
• Tape measure or folding rule
• Screwdriver (cross-head) for fine hinge adjustment

Carcass Assembly

Connecting the side panels to the base and top panel in modern flat-pack units is almost always done using cam and pin connectors (also known as Minifix) combined with wooden dowels. The dowel absorbs shear forces, while the cam connector pulls the panels firmly together. Important: the back panel (usually a 3 mm thick HDF board) is either slid into a routed groove or nailed/screwed from behind. It provides the carcass with essential diagonal rigidity. Measure the diagonals of the carcass before securing the back panel. The unit is only square if both diagonals are exactly equal in length.

Drawers and Runners

Lowboards frequently utilise wide drawers. The runner slides are mounted to the inner carcass sides.

• Partial extension: The drawer extends to around 75%. The rear section remains inside the carcass.
• Full extension: The runner (usually a telescopic ball bearing runner) allows the drawer to be pulled out 100%. This is essential for deep lowboards to reach cables or items stored right at the back.

For wide drawers (over 80 cm), ensure that the drawer base is supported from underneath with a brace so it does not sag under load.

Doors and Hinges

Doors are mounted using a concealed hinge. The cup (usually with a 35 mm diameter) is pressed into the pre-drilled recess in the door and screwed in place. The mounting plate is attached to the inside of the carcass.

• Full overlay: The door completely overlays the carcass side.
• Half overlay / twin application: Two doors share a single central carcass divider (half overlay).
• Inset: The door sits flush inside the carcass opening.

After clipping the door onto the mounting plate, the reveal gaps must be adjusted. Every modern concealed hinge features three adjustment screws to adjust height, depth (distance to the carcass), and lateral overlay.

Wall-Mounted Installation (Floating Units)

Many lowboards can be mounted floating on the wall. This makes cleaning the floor easier. Heavy-duty cabinet hangers are fitted inside the carcass to hook into a metal suspension rail fixed to the wall. The wall must be solid masonry (concrete or solid brick). For stud walls (plasterboard), specialised cavity fixings must be used, and the load must be anchored directly into the studwork (the metal or timber framework behind the board).

FAQ – Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between a sideboard and a highboard? A sideboard is usually between 70 cm and 90 cm high and wider than it is tall. A highboard is significantly taller at 100 cm to 130 cm, often narrower, and provides more vertical storage space.

How high should a lowboard be? The ideal height for a lowboard is between 35 cm and 50 cm. The crucial factors are the seating height of the sofa and the size of the TV. The centre of the screen should sit roughly at eye level when seated.

Can any lowboard be mounted to the wall? No. Only lowboards whose base, top, and side construction is rated for suspended loads and equipped with suitable heavy-duty wall brackets may be installed floating. Floor-standing models could tear out at the joints if wall-mounted.

What does "System 32" mean regarding shelf compartments? The System 32 standard is an international convention in cabinet making. It refers to a vertical line of holes in the carcass sides with hole centres spaced exactly 32 mm apart. The hole diameter for shelf support pins is typically 5 mm. This allows flexible height adjustment of shelves.

Why is my push-to-open door not closing properly? With push-to-open systems, the hinge must not feature self-closing mechanisms (spring tension) or a soft-close damper. Both mechanisms work against the plunger pressure. Sprung-free hinges (without springs) must be used instead. Additionally, the plunger pin must be adjusted in depth by turning it until it rests flush against the closed door.

How much weight can a lowboard drawer hold? This depends on the installed runner. A basic roller runner often carries only 15 kg to 20 kg. A telescopic ball bearing runner with full extension can support 30 kg to 45 kg, depending on the specification.

Related Categories & Hardware Guides

To complement your storage and cabinet projects, explore our wide range of furniture fittings and hardware. Whether you need connecting fittings for extra-wide carcass units, heavy-duty wall brackets, replacement hinges, or drawer runners, browse our technical guides and hardware selection for your next build.