Assembling the MIKEL Sideboard — Step-by-Step Guide

Thanks to a well-thought-out system of cam lock fittings and wooden dowels, assembling the MIKEL sideboard requires only basic hand tools and takes around one to two hours with thorough preparation.

Correct assembly is crucial for the stability and lifespan of furniture. This step-by-step guide walks you through the assembly process for the MIKEL series. Whether dealing with a compact model for the hallway or a wide version for the living room, the fundamental system of connecting fittings remains identical. The furniture is usually made from melamine-coated chipboard or MDF, requiring precise alignment during assembly to prevent holes from tearing out.

Preparation and Checking the Scope of Delivery

Before assembly begins, systematic preparation is essential. An orderly workspace prevents scratches on components and stops small fixings from going missing.

1. Open the packaging: Lay the cardboard flat on the floor. It serves as a soft protective base during assembly.
2. Sort the parts: Organise all wooden panels by size and pre-drilled holes.
3. Check the fittings: Inspect screws, wooden dowels, cam lock fittings, and hinges against the parts list in the included manual to ensure everything is complete.

Depending on the model variant — whether a compact MIKEL 80 or a generous MIKEL 200 — the number of components varies. However, the assembly steps remain identical.

Required Tools

No specialist tools are needed for assembly. The following basic set of equipment is sufficient:

• Cross-head screwdriver: Ensure you use the correct drive type. Furniture fittings typically use PZ (Pozidriv), or less frequently PH (Phillips). Using the wrong bit will damage the screw head.
• Rubber mallet: For tapping in wooden dowels gently without causing damage.
• Cordless screwdriver: Use only on a low torque setting to avoid overtightening screws in the chipboard.
• Spirit level: For final levelling and alignment of the furniture piece.
• Tape measure or folding ruler: For checking the diagonals.

Assembly Instructions: Assembling the MIKEL Sideboard in 6 Steps

The cabinet carcass forms the backbone of the furniture; if it is not completely square, doors and drawers cannot be adjusted neatly later on.

Step 1: Insert the Fittings into the Side Panels

First, prepare all side panels, the base panel, and the top panel.

• Insert the wooden dowels into the designated edge holes (usually 8 mm in diameter). A drop of wood glue improves stability, though it is not strictly necessary for dry assembly.
• Screw the connecting bolts of the cam lock fittings (also known as Minifix) into the pre-drilled 5 mm face holes. Drive them in until flush against the surface, but do not overtighten.
• Insert the round cam lock housings into the large holes (typically 15 mm) on the mating panels. The small arrow on the housing must point towards the outer edge.

Step 2: Assemble the Carcass

Now assemble the prepared panels.

• Connect the base panel to the side panels. The wooden dowels and cam connecting bolts slide smoothly into the corresponding drill holes.
• Using a screwdriver, turn the cam lock fittings approximately 180° clockwise until firm resistance is felt. This pulls the panels tightly together.
• Fit any centre partitions (if present, for example on the MIKEL 120) in the exact same manner.

Step 3: Mount the Back Panel and Square the Carcass

The back panel is vital for structural rigidity and keeping the entire sideboard square.

• Lay the furniture face down onto the cardboard.
• Slide the back panel into the routed groove or lay it over the back rebate (depending on the design).
• Important: Before securing the back panel with nails or small chipboard screws, ensure the carcass is perfectly square. Measure both diagonals on the rear using a tape measure. If both measurements match to the exact millimetre, the carcass is square.
• Fasten the back panel around the entire perimeter at intervals of roughly 100 mm to 150 mm.

Step 4: Attach Furniture Legs or Plinth

While the sideboard is still lying down, fit the legs.

• The mounting positions are usually indicated by small pilot markings.
• Fix the mounting plates of the legs using suitable screws (frequently 3.5 x 15 mm).
• For models featuring adjustable cabinet feet, screw the thread all the way in initially. Height adjustments are carried out at the very end.

Step 5: Assemble Drawers and Runners

A classic sideboard in a bedroom or hallway often features a combination of doors and drawers.

• Drawer runners: Screw the carcass rails of the roller runners or ball bearing runners into the System 32 hole pattern on the inner sides.
• Drawer box: Assemble the drawer sides, back, and bottom panel. Attach the matching runner members to the drawer sides.
• A full extension runner allows complete access to the full depth of the drawer, whereas a single extension leaves the rear quarter inside the carcass. Both systems are mounted following the same principle.

Step 6: Hang Doors and Adjust Hinges

In the final step, mount the door fronts. Concealed cup hinges are standard here.

• Screw the cruciform mounting plate to the inside of the carcass.
• Insert the hinge cup (usually 35 mm in diameter) into the pre-drilled cup hole on the door and screw it down.
• The MIKEL series generally uses a full overlay (the door completely covers the carcass edge) or a half overlay (two doors share a single dividing partition).
• Hold the door up to the carcass and clip or slide the hinge arm onto the mounting plate, securing it with the fixing screw.

Wall Mounting and Anti-Tip Protection

A sideboard can easily tip forward, particularly when loaded with heavy items or when multiple drawers are pulled out at once. Wall mounting is vital for safety reasons.

• Fasten the supplied anti-tip bracket (typically a metal angle bracket or heavy-duty strap) to the top edge of the unit.
• Move the sideboard into its final position.
• Check with a spirit level that the furniture sits level. If necessary, adjust using the adjustable feet or by placing small packing shims underneath.
• Mark the drill hole on the wall, drill, and insert a suitable wall plug (e.g. 8 mm for solid masonry).
• Secure the bracket firmly to the wall. This safety step is equally critical for lower units from the dressers & sideboards category.

Avoiding Common Furniture Assembly Pitfalls

Even when following instructions closely, minor inaccuracies can spoil the final finish.

Uneven door gaps: These can be corrected using the adjustment screws on the concealed hinge.

• Depth adjustment: Slightly loosening the rear screw on the hinge arm allows the door to move a few millimetres forwards or backwards.
• Lateral adjustment: The front screw moves the door left or right, allowing you to set parallel gaps between adjacent doors.
• Height adjustment: Carried out via the slotted screw holes on the carcass mounting plate.

Drawers rubbing or sticking: Check that the runners are mounted completely level and that the correct screw holes were used. On runners equipped with a soft-close mechanism, the drawer must often be pushed in firmly on its first closure to engage the damper. Note: A soft-close damping system should not be confused with a push-to-open system (tip-on); both mechanisms require distinct hardware.

FAQ on MIKEL Sideboard Assembly

How long does it take to assemble the sideboard? A single person with some DIY experience will take around 60 to 90 minutes for a medium-sized unit. For larger models, often used as TV sideboards, plan for two people and approximately two hours.

Can I use a cordless screwdriver for all screws? Yes, but the torque limiter (clutch) must be set to a low setting (such as level 3 or 4). Chipboard strips easily if screws are over-torqued. The cam lock fittings should always be tightened by hand using a manual screwdriver.

The sideboard wobbles after assembly. What is the cause? This is usually caused by an uneven floor surface or a carcass that was not assembled perfectly square. If the unit stands on older, uneven floorboards, the furniture feet must be individually adjusted in height until the spirit level reads true.

Are there special instructions for matt or high-gloss surfaces? The mechanical construction is identical. For models such as the Matt Black Sideboard or variants from the High-Gloss Sideboards range, simply ensure you leave the protective foil on the door and drawer fronts until all assembly and alignment work is fully complete.