Planning the BLADE TV Wall Unit: Dimensions, TV Module & Cable Management

The BLADE TV wall unit is a modular furniture system made of melamine-coated chipboard and MDF fronts, whose planning requires precise room dimensions, the screen size of the television, and well-thought-out cable management.

A wall unit structures the living room, provides storage space for media equipment, and frames the television visually. Self-assembly of such modular systems requires careful preparation, as base units, wall-hung cabinets, and shelves must be coordinated precisely with one another and with the room layout. This guide walks you through planning, component selection, and professional assembly.

Wall Unit Finishes and Materials

Modern wall units are generally constructed from engineered wood materials that combine stability with low inherent weight. This is particularly important for wall-hung elements.

The carcase of the modules is usually made from chipboard. These boards feature a melamine resin coating that makes the surface resistant to scratches and moisture. The fronts are frequently made from MDF (medium-density fibreboard). This material has a finer structure and allows for cleaner milling, which is why it is used for smooth, handleless designs or high-gloss finishes.

Clean lines dominate contemporary interior designs. A wall unit in a black colour scheme absorbs light from the television, creating a cinema-like atmosphere in the room. Concrete-effect variations introduce an industrial texture. These decors are often paired with integrated glass elements. To showcase these glass shelves or display cabinets effectively, suitable furniture lighting is used, typically via slim LED strips or spotlights.

How to Choose the Right Dimensions and TV Module

The sizing of the wall unit depends largely on the room size and the diagonal measurement of the television. An overly massive piece of furniture will overwhelm small spaces, while a unit that is too narrow will look lost on a large wall.

The TV Lowboard as a Base

The central element is the TV lowboard. This floor-standing unit either supports the television directly on its top panel or acts as a visual anchor when the screen is mounted on the wall. As a rule of thumb, the lowboard should be at least 15 cm to 20 cm wider than the television on both the left and right sides. A 65-inch television has a physical width of approximately 145 cm. The corresponding TV module should therefore have a minimum width of 180 cm. Standard lowboards feature a depth of 40 cm to 50 cm. This is sufficient to accommodate AV receivers, games consoles, or soundbars.

Distance and Sightlines

The height of the lowboard dictates the viewing sightline. With an average sofa seat height of 40 cm to 45 cm, the centre of the screen should sit at eye level, usually at a height of about 100 cm to 110 cm from the floor. Lowboards with a height of 30 cm to 40 cm are designed specifically for this geometry.

The TV Module and Intelligent Cable Management

Cables act as the nervous system of any home cinema setup – they must connect all components reliably without being visible on the surface. Effective cable management begins during the assembly of the carcases.

Back panels of TV modules are usually made from thin HDF (high-density fibreboard), slotted into a groove in the side panels. To route cables from consoles or receivers to the television, cable grommets must be present or drilled. A standard cable outlet requires a hole with a diameter of 60 mm or 80 mm, made using a hole saw.

When the television is mounted on the wall, cables must be routed upwards from the lowboard. Planning should account for a chased in-wall conduit or a slim surface-mounted trunking profile colour-matched to the wall or the unit. Inside the cabinets, cable ties and self-adhesive clips help separate power cables from signal leads to prevent interference with picture and sound.

Optimising Storage: Drawers and Runners

Alongside open compartments for media equipment, the lower modules typically provide enclosed storage. Here, the built-in hardware determines day-to-day usability.

Different drawer systems are used for mounting pull-outs. The runner tracks are screwed to the inner sides of the carcase. When planning storage, you must distinguish between runner extension types: a partial extension pulls out to approximately 75 % of the carcase depth. The rear section of the drawer remains inside the cabinet, making access to items stored at the back more difficult. A full extension, by contrast, opens 100 %. When drawer runners full extension are installed, the entire contents of the drawer are accessible from above.

Opening Mechanisms

Modern handleless fronts require dedicated drawer runners. Two distinct mechanisms are commonly used:

  1. Push-to-Open: Pressing the front triggers a spring that ejects the drawer slightly forward. This enables completely smooth fronts without handles. Such drawer runners push to open operate purely mechanically.
  2. Soft-Close: This is a damping system. If the drawer is pushed shut with force, a damper cushions the movement across the final centimetres and pulls the drawer closed softly and quietly.

These two systems cannot be combined on standard runners, as the damper would obstruct the spring ejection.

To stop controllers, remote controls, or cables from sliding around inside the drawers, non-slip matting for drawers can be laid on the base. This can be cut precisely to the internal dimensions using a utility knife.

Assembly: Tools, Techniques, and Construction

Assembling a multi-part wall unit requires a methodical approach. The installation time for a complete set comprising a lowboard, wall cabinets, and shelving is approximately 3 to 5 hours for two people.

Required Tools

Have the following tools ready for assembly and wall mounting:

  • Cordless screwdriver with driver bits (PZ, PH, TX)
  • Percussion drill or rotary hammer (for wall fixing)
  • Masonry drill bits (typically 8 mm or 10 mm)
  • Spirit level (at least 60 cm long)
  • Tape measure and pencil
  • Rubber mallet
  • Manual screwdriver (for fine-tuning hinges)

Carcase Assembly

Engineered furniture panels are joined primarily using cam and pin connectors (Minifix) and wooden dowels. These furniture connectors provide a sturdy yet demountable joint. The metal dowel pin is screwed into the pre-drilled thread, while the matching cam housing is inserted into the recess of the adjoining panel and turned 180° with a screwdriver until the panels pull tightly together.

For back panels or secondary fastenings, wood screws and furniture screws are frequently used. On melamine-coated boards, ensure screws are driven straight to avoid chipping the surface coating.

Levelling Floor-Standing Units

Floors in living areas are rarely completely flat. To ensure the gaps around doors and drawers remain parallel, the lowboard must sit perfectly level. For this purpose, height-adjustable furniture legs are screwed underneath the base panel. Turning the foot allows for millimetre-precise adjustment.

Wall Mounting of Hanging Elements

Wall-hung cabinets and shelves are subjected to significant shear forces. The self-weight of the MDF panels is compounded by the contents (such as books or glassware).

  1. Check wall structure: A solid concrete or brick wall easily supports heavy loads with standard wall plugs. For plasterboard stud walls, metal cavity anchors are essential.
  2. Mark positions: Mark the positions of the hanging brackets on the wall using a spirit level.
  3. Drill: The drilled hole must be deep enough so the wall plug sits flush with the plaster and the screw engages fully.
  4. Hang: The wall cabinets feature heavy-duty cabinet hangers on the rear. These hook onto wall-mounted mounting rails. Adjustment screws inside the cabinet allow for millimetre adjustments to tilt and height after hanging.

Adjusting Doors

Once the fronts are mounted, the reveals must be adjusted. Concealed cup hinges offer 3D adjustability. Screws on the hinge arm allow the door to be adjusted for height, depth (distance from the carcase), and lateral overlay. If doors slam against the carcase, clip-on door dampers can be fitted directly to the hinge or recessed into the carcase edge.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

How much clearance should there be between the lowboard and the wall cabinet? The clearance depends on the height of the television. There should be at least 10 cm to 15 cm of free air circulation between the top edge of the TV and the underside of the wall cabinet above it to prevent heat build-up around the electronics.

What is the load capacity of the drawers in the TV module? Standard roller runners support roughly 15 kg to 20 kg. When ball-bearing telescopic runners are installed, the load rating is usually 30 kg to 45 kg, which is plenty for heavy audio equipment or large media collections.

What is the difference between full overlay and inset cabinet doors? With a full overlay, the door completely covers the front edges of the carcase side panels when closed. With an inset door, the front sits flush inside the side panels, leaving the front edges of the carcase visible. These require different hinge types.

Can I mount hanging cabinets on a plasterboard wall? Yes, provided the wall structure is sound and metal cavity anchors are used. A single cavity fixing in standard plasterboard holds around 25 kg. For heavier modules, fixings should ideally be anchored directly into the wall studs (the timber or metal framework behind the plasterboard).

How do I align misaligned drawers? High-quality drawer systems have small adjustment wheels or levers on the underside of the drawer box or at the front fixing brackets. Turning these adjusts the front height and tilt by 2 mm to 3 mm until the gaps are uniform.

What cup diameter is used for the wall unit hinges? Most mass-produced wall units use concealed hinges with a 35 mm cup hole diameter. Smaller glass display doors occasionally use 26 mm diameter hinges.

Why is my push-to-open drawer failing to close properly? If the drawer bounces back open upon closing, the release mechanism is typically jammed or the runner track is warped under excessive weight. Remove the drawer completely, clear any dust from the runner, and check that the spring mechanism at the rear of the slide moves freely.

Related Categories and Guides

For successful assembly and customisation of your furniture projects, find the matching hardware components here:

  • Furniture connectors
  • Wood screws and furniture screws
  • Furniture legs
  • Drawer systems
  • Drawer runners full extension
  • Drawer runners push to open
  • Door dampers

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