Drawer Runners Suitable for Pelipal Kitchens

A drawer runner is only compatible as a replacement part if the nominal length, installation width, and hole pattern match the existing cabinet carcass precisely.

Anyone wishing to replace faulty runners in a kitchen or upgrade existing cabinets is often searching for suitable spare parts. Furniture components declared as suitable for Pelipal kitchen or bathroom units are generally based on the furniture industry's standardised grid dimensions. This means that if technical parameters such as drill hole spacings and carcass depth match, brand-independent runner systems can be installed as functional alternatives.

This guide is aimed at installers and joiners. It explains the technical requirements for professionally replacing drawer slides, determining lengths correctly, and selecting the right systems for the respective drawer type.

What to Look for Regarding Compatibility

A runner system operates like the gearing of a machine – if the gap dimensions deviate by even a single millimetre, the entire mechanism can jam. To find an alternative for Pelipal runners, three fundamental dimensions must be measured on the existing carcass and drawer.

1. System 32 and the Hole Pattern

Most modern kitchen cabinets are manufactured according to System 32. This means that the drill holes in the side panels of the carcass have a vertical and horizontal spacing of exactly 32 mm from one another. The standard diameter of these drill holes is 5 mm. If the existing cabinet uses this grid, compatible runners can be attached directly using a Euro screw (flat head, blunt thread). If the grid is absent, installation is carried out using classic chipboard screws (usually 3.5 x 16 mm or 4 x 16 mm), which require pre-drilling with a 3 mm wood drill bit.

2. Nominal Length and Carcass Depth

The nominal length (NL) defines the actual length of the metal runner when fully closed. It is always specified in millimetres. The most common lengths in kitchens range between 250 mm and 550 mm. A typical dimension for standard base units, for example, is a runner with a length of 400 mm or 500 mm. The internal carcass depth (internal cabinet measurement from the front edge to the back panel) must always be at least 3 mm to 5 mm longer than the nominal length of the runner so that it sits flush inside the cabinet.

3. Installation Width and Material Thickness

When fitting side-mounted runners, the installation width is crucial. A classic ball bearing runner usually requires an exact clearance of 12.7 mm (or 13 mm) between the outer drawer side and the inner carcass wall. If the gap is narrower, the runner jams; if it is wider, the sliding carriages will not engage cleanly. With an undermount runner, which is fitted concealed beneath the drawer base, the material thickness of the drawer side panel (usually 16 mm or 19 mm) is instead the critical measurement for the compatibility of the locking clips.

Suitable Components for Replacement

Depending on the construction of the existing furniture, different runner types are used. For repairing or upgrading kitchen cabinets, various kitchen cabinet pull-outs are available, dimensioned to suit Pelipal units or similar builds.

Comparison of Runner Types

• Ball bearing runner: These systems run on small steel ball bearings inside a telescopic profile. They are usually screwed to the side of the drawer. They provide high lateral stability and are well suited to heavy loads.
• Undermount runner: The runner is mounted invisibly beneath the drawer base. The drawer is placed onto the runner and locked in place with a clip. This is the standard in modern, premium kitchens.
• Roller runner: A simple system in which a plastic roller runs inside an epoxy-coated metal profile. When replacing roller drawer runners, ensure that the new runner rests against the bottom edge of the drawer and is screwed into the side.

Extension Length: Full or Partial?

Due to its design, a single extension (partial extension) can only be pulled out of the cabinet by around 75% to 80%. The rear section of the drawer remains inside the carcass, making it harder to reach items at the back. A full extension runner, on the other hand, is equipped with an additional telescopic segment, allowing the drawer to be pulled out 100%. Replacing a single extension runner with full extension drawer runners is straightforward in most cases, provided the nominal length and installation width remain identical.

Convenience Features: Soft-Close vs. Push-to-Open

Mechanical add-on features upgrade the furniture carcass, but must be correctly differentiated.

• Soft-close (damping): A hydraulic or pneumatic damper brakes the drawer over the final few centimetres and pulls it shut gently and silently. When replacing old runners with soft-close drawer runners, the drawer fronts must have a handle.
• Self-closing: A mechanical spring pulls the drawer shut over the last few centimetres, but without the braking effect of a damper. Corresponding self-closing drawer runners close audibly, but keep the drawer reliably shut.
• Push-to-open (tip-on): This mechanism is designed for handleless fronts. Pressing the front releases a spring that pushes the drawer open slightly. Important: push-to-open drawer runners can never be combined with soft-close damping in the very same runner, as the mechanisms work in opposite directions (pressure build-up vs. tensile force).

Load Capacity

For cutlery or towel drawers, a dynamic load capacity of 20 kg to 30 kg is sufficient. For wide pan drawers or larder units, heavy-duty drawer runners must be installed. These feature reinforced profiles and are designed for loads of 45 kg, 80 kg, or more.

Fitting and Retrofitting: Professional Installation

Replacing runners requires precision. Misaligned installation leads to increased wear on the ball bearings and uneven gap alignment on the furniture front.

Tools Required

• Cordless screwdriver with suitable bits (PZ for Pozi, TX for Torx)
• Tape measure or folding rule
• Joiner's square
• Bradawl or 3 mm wood drill bit (if System 32 is absent)
• Spirit level

Step-by-Step Instructions (Example: Side-Mounted Ball Bearing Runner)

1. Removal: Remove the old drawer. Unscrew the old carcass runners. Measure the exact position of the old drill holes from the front edge of the carcass.
2. Dimension check: Check whether the new runners are compatible with the existing hole pattern. Hold the new carcass runner in place and mark new fixing points if required. Ensure the correct setback (usually 2 mm behind the carcass front edge so that the front closes flush).
3. Fitting the carcass runner: Screw the runner horizontally to the carcass wall using Euro screws (into 5 mm holes) or chipboard screws. Use the square to ensure an exact horizontal alignment.
4. Fitting the drawer runner: Separate the inner sliding carriage from the carcass runner using the release lever. Screw this profile to the side of the drawer. The runner must finish flush with the front edge of the drawer box.
5. Insertion: Guide the drawer horizontally into the carcass until the sliding carriages audibly click into the carcass runners. Open and close the drawer several times so that the ball cages centre themselves.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Can I replace a roller runner with an undermount runner? A direct replacement is usually not possible without modifications. A roller runner is screwed to the side or bottom edge of the drawer side panel. An undermount runner requires dedicated space beneath the drawer base. The side panels of the existing drawer would need to extend below the base (usually by 12 mm to 15 mm) to accommodate this.

How do I measure the nominal length correctly? Measure only the length of the metal runner in the fully closed state. Fixing brackets or protruding plastic parts at the rear are generally not included in the measurement. The dimension in millimetres (e.g. 450 mm) is your nominal length.

Which screws should I use for carcass mounting? That depends on the holes in the cabinet. If the carcass features factory-drilled hole rows with a 5 mm diameter, use dedicated Euro screws (flat head, 6.3 mm thread). If no holes are present or you pre-drill with a 3 mm bit, use standard countersunk chipboard screws (e.g. 3.5 x 16 mm or 4 x 16 mm).

Why is the soft-close drawer not closing properly? If the damping jams over the final few centimetres, it is often due to an installation error. Either the installation width is too narrow, causing the runner to bind under tension, or the carcass runners were not fitted exactly parallel (same spacing at front and back). Check all dimensions using a joiner's square.