Replacement Parts & Compatible Fittings for Blum Antaro — Overview
A compatible furniture fitting requires an exact match of drilling pattern, nominal length, and load capacity to serve as a functional replacement in existing cabinet systems.
During the maintenance, repair, or expansion of kitchen and furniture carcasses, fitters and joiners often face the task of replacing defective components. A widespread standard in many kitchens is drawer and pull-out systems such as Tandembox Antaro. When a damper wears out, a runner jams, or an additional internal drawer needs retrofitting, technical understanding is required. Fittings and components from furnica can be used as a functional alternative to Blum, provided that the geometric parameters of the cabinet match precisely. This guide provides the technical specifications for selecting suitable replacement parts and compatible fittings.
What to Look for Regarding Compatibility
To ensure that a replacement part is suitable for Blum Antaro or comparable systems, the fundamental dimensions of furniture construction must be strictly observed. Compatibility is determined not by visual appearance, but by the routings and drillings in the timber.
The most important criterion is the System 32. This standardised row of holes features a continuous pitch of 32 mm between hole centres. The distance from the frontmost drilling to the front edge of the carcass is typically exactly 37 mm. When a new cabinet runner is mounted as a replacement, its fixing holes must correspond precisely to this grid.
Additionally, the nominal length (NL) is crucial. It defines the length of the runner and the depth of the drawer side. Common lengths in kitchen manufacturing range from 270 mm - 650 mm. Replacing a runner strictly requires a rail with an identical nominal length; otherwise, the existing drawer side will not engage with the cabinet runner, or the pull-out will not close completely within the carcass.
Suitable Alternatives and Replacement Parts for Drawers
When the mechanism of a drawer fails, the issue usually lies within the runner or the integrated damping mechanism.
Runners and Pull-out Systems
Modern double-walled drawer side systems utilise concealed runners. As a compatible replacement for defective runners inside the carcass, under-mount drawer runners are an ideal choice. These are mounted beneath the drawer bottom and support the metal side profile.
Technically, a distinction is made between two extension types:
- A full extension pull-out can be drawn 100% out of the carcass. This enables unhindered access to the furthest corner of the drawer.
- A single extension only extends the drawer to approximately 75%.
For maximum convenience in the kitchen, full extension drawer runners are generally installed. If the soft-close damper on the old runner is defective (often known as Blumotion), a complete replacement of the carcass runner with soft-close drawer runners is recommended. The integrated cylinder decelerates the drawer's momentum over the final centimetres, pulling it shut softly and silently. Important for installation: soft-close damping is a completely different mechanism from push-to-open (Tip-On). Both systems cannot be combined in the same standard runner, as they utilise opposing spring forces.
Retrofitting Complete Pull-out Units
If an existing cabinet needs to be expanded with additional pull-outs (for example, retrofitting an internal drawer behind a hinged door), choosing complete drawer systems is the most efficient solution. These systems include carcass runners, drawer sides, back brackets, and front fixings. For standard cabinet widths common in the kitchen industry, pre-configured sets are available, such as a 60 cm kitchen cabinet pull-out. Here, only the clear internal carcass width needs to be observed, which is exactly 568 mm for a 60 cm wide cabinet with 16 mm thick side panels.
Door Hinges and Lift Fittings for the Same Carcass
Repair requirements often involve not only drawers, but also the cabinet fronts within the same kitchen run.
Concealed Hinges and Dampers
A concealed cup hinge connects the furniture door to the carcass. The industry standard for the cup drilling in the door is a 35 mm diameter and a drilling depth of approximately 11.5 mm. If a hinge or clip-on door damper is worn out, any hinge with a 35 mm cup and the corresponding drilling pattern (usually 45 mm or 52 mm screw spacing) can serve as a replacement.
The overlay type must be matched precisely:
- Full overlay: The door completely covers the carcass side panel (opening angle typically 110°).
- Half overlay: Two doors share a single central carcass partition (twin application).
- Inset: The door sits entirely flush inside the carcass opening.
Fittings for Wall Units
For wall-mounted units with upward-opening fronts, specialised mechanisms are required. As an alternative to systems like Blum Aventos, various flap stays and lift fittings can be used. For heavy MDF or solid wood fronts, installers utilise gas struts for heavy flaps.
The rating of these struts is strictly determined by physical specifications. The force is measured in Newtons (N). The required spring force is calculated from the weight of the flap (including the handle) and the flap height. A typical value for medium-sized kitchen fronts ranges from 250 N to 380 N. If the cylinder is too weak, the flap will drop shut; if it is too strong, closing the door becomes very difficult.
Installation and Retrofitting of Compatible Fittings
Like clockwork, runners and drawer sides mesh together — if the drilling pattern deviates by even one millimetre during installation, the mechanism will jam. Replacing cabinet runners or hinges therefore requires meticulous precision.
Required tools:
- Cordless drill/driver
- Screwdriver with PZ (Pozidriv) size 2
- Tape measure or folding rule
- Try square
- Bradawl or centre punch
Step-by-step guide to replacing a cabinet runner:
- Removal: The drawer is released from the runner by operating the locking catch on the underside and then removed.
- Runner removal: The old fixings (usually Euro screws with a 6.3 mm diameter or 4 x 15 mm chipboard screws) are unscrewed. The defective runner is removed.
- Checking the hole pattern: The new, compatible runner is held against the carcass wall. The frontmost hole in the System 32 grid must be positioned exactly 37 mm from the front edge.
- Installation: The new runner is screwed in horizontally. When using chipboard screws, ensure they sit completely flush in the countersunk holes of the runner so that the screw head does not foul the roller carriage.
- Insertion: The drawer is placed onto the extended runners and pushed backwards with light pressure until the catches click audibly into place.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I replace a defective drawer damper individually? On most concealed under-mount runners, the damping unit (the fluid cylinder) is permanently riveted or pressed into the runner carriage. An individual replacement of the cylinder is often technically impractical or uneconomical. In this case, the complete cabinet runner (left or right) is replaced with a compatible runner of identical nominal length.
How do I determine the correct nominal length for a replacement pull-out? The nominal length is measured not on the carcass, but on the removed drawer or the cabinet runner. Measure purely the closed length of the metal runner itself (excluding any protruding plastic parts of the front locking device). The dimensions are standardised and usually end in round multiples of ten or fifty (e.g. 450 mm, 500 mm, 550 mm).
Which hinges are suitable for existing kitchen cabinets? As long as the door has a 35 mm cup drilling, brand-independent concealed hinges can be used. It is only essential that the existing mounting plate in the carcass (typically with a 32 mm hole spacing) is replaced together with the new hinge, as clip-on mechanisms are not cross-compatible between different manufacturers and product series. The hinge and mounting plate must always be replaced as a single unit.
What is the difference between Soft-Close and Tip-On when retrofitting? Soft-Close is an active damping system that decelerates the drawer upon closing and pulls it shut via spring tension. Tip-On (push-to-open) is a mechanical release mechanism for handleless fronts that pushes the drawer open when pressed. Simultaneous operation within a standard runner is physically impossible. When replacing, you must choose the specific system that was originally installed.