Drawers Suitable for Alno Kitchens

Replacement parts and drawer systems suitable for Alno kitchens strictly require an exact match of the cabinet internal dimensions, runner nominal lengths, and the System 32 drilling pattern to ensure flawless operation.

Introduction: Replacement Parts Suitable for Alno Kitchens

Even in robustly constructed kitchen cabinets, moving mechanical components are subject to natural wear and tear after years of intensive use. When runners stick, dampers lose their effect, or drawer sides are damaged, a complete replacement of the units is rarely economical. Instead, joiners and installers turn to replacement parts that are compatible with Alno kitchens.

Repairing or retrofitting requires precise knowledge of the installed fittings. Since kitchen manufacturers generally use standardised grid dimensions, defective components can be replaced with technically equivalent alternatives. The priority is not an exact visual replica, but rather functional and dimensional compatibility to ensure the load capacity and smooth running of the new drawer systems.

What to Consider Regarding Compatibility

Much like replacing a specific gear in a gearbox, the new runner mechanism must fit precisely into the existing geometry of the cabinet carcass. Anyone looking for components as an alternative to factory-installed fittings must check three essential technical parameters:

  1. The System 32: Almost all modern kitchen cabinets are based on this standardised row of holes. The distance between drill holes is exactly 32 mm, and the hole diameter for fixing screws typically measures 5 mm. The distance from the cabinet front edge to the first row of holes is standardly 37 mm. Replacement runners must support this drilling pattern so they can be mounted without drilling extra holes.
  2. The Nominal Length (NL): The length of the runner is measured in its closed state. Common nominal lengths in kitchens range between 250 mm - 650 mm, often graduated in 50 mm steps (e.g. 450 mm, 500 mm). The nominal length of the runner must match the drawer depth and the internal cabinet depth.
  3. The Cabinet Side Wall Thickness: Fittings are frequently tailored to side walls with a thickness of 16 mm or 19 mm. This affects the installation width (internal clearance) for the drawer runners.

Suitable Drawer Systems and Runners

When selecting runners for replacing or upgrading existing units, a distinction must be made between different designs and extension types.

A full extension runner can be pulled out 100% from the cabinet, allowing complete access to all contents right up to the back panel. A partial extension runner, by contrast, only exposes around 75% of the depth, leaving the rear section inside the cabinet. For kitchen units storing pots and pans or provisions, a drawer runners full extension is the technical standard for optimal ergonomics.

Regarding load capacity, the weight of the stored items is decisive. Standard runners are usually designed for a dynamic load capacity of 25 kg to 30 kg. For wide pan drawers or larder units, drawer runners heavy duty must be used, which can take loads from 45 kg up to 80 kg without the runner profile warping.

Another technical distinguishing feature is the closing mechanism. Two contrasting systems must not be confused here:

  • Drawer runners with soft close (frequently called Soft-Close) feature an integrated hydraulic or air damper. This absorbs the momentum of the closing drawer and pulls it gently and silently into the closed position over the final centimetres.
  • Drawer runners push to open are designed for handleless fronts. A mechanical release tensions a spring. Applying light pressure to the front releases the catch and the drawer pops open by a few centimetres.

Both mechanisms are mutually exclusive in purely mechanical designs. Damping decelerates, while an ejection mechanism accelerates.

Accessories and Equipment for the Cabinet Unit

Beyond the pure runner mechanics, cabinet interiors can be upgraded with precisely fitting accessories. This is particularly relevant when old plastic drawer sides have become brittle or space utilisation needs to be optimised.

Essential drawer equipment includes inserts that prevent contents from sliding around. A cut-to-size anti-slip mat for drawers dampens noise when putting cutlery away and protects wooden bases against moisture and scratches. For structured storage of kitchen utensils, the interior can be divided into fixed compartments using a drawer organiser kitchen.

If sensitive items or cleaning agents are stored at floor level, retrofitting a drawer lock can be sensible. For this, a cylinder is recessed into the front (usually 19 mm diameter), with its locking cam engaging into a strike plate on the carcass or the fixed shelf above.

In wide drawers beneath the sink, integrating waste separation systems is also ideal. A kitchen bin pull out 60cm utilises the entire width of the sink base unit and is mounted directly onto the base of the full-extension drawer or guided on the side walls.

Installation and Retrofitting: Step-by-Step

Replacing runners in an existing carcass requires precision. When the new runners are selected to match the existing hole pattern, assembly is straightforward.

Required Tools

  • Cordless drill/driver
  • Screwdriver with PZ drive (Pozidriv, size 2)
  • Tape measure / folding rule
  • Spirit level
  • Euro screws (typically 6.3 mm x 13 mm) or chipboard screws (3.5 mm x 16 mm)

Installation Procedure

  1. Removal: Remove the old drawer. For an undermount runner, this is usually done by releasing the locking catches beneath the drawer base. Unscrew the old cabinet profiles.
  2. Check the Hole Pattern: Inspect whether the System 32 drillings are still intact. Worn-out holes must be filled with glued wooden dowels (5 mm) and re-drilled.
  3. Fitting the Cabinet Profile: Position the new runner on the side wall. The frontmost fixing screw is placed at a 37 mm distance from the edge. Ensure precise horizontal alignment.
  4. Fastening: Secure the runner with Euro screws into the pre-drilled 5 mm holes. If no system drillings are present, use chipboard screws.
  5. Inserting and Adjusting: Place the drawer onto the runners and push it in until it clicks into place. Use the adjustment wheels on the locking clips or drawer sides to align the front gaps (height and side adjustment, typically +/- 2 mm).

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Can I use any runner as a replacement part? No. The replacement runner must match the existing drawer and cabinet in nominal length, installation width, and load capacity. A ball bearing runner, for instance, often requires an exact 12.7 mm clearance between the internal cabinet wall and the drawer side.

What is the difference between a roller runner and a ball bearing runner? A drawer runners roller runner consists of two powder-coated steel profiles that glide over each other on plastic rollers (usually as a partial extension). A ball bearing runner is a telescopic extension where steel ball bearings in a ball cage provide the movement. The latter can handle significantly higher loads and operates with greater precision.

How do I correctly measure the length of the required runner? Always measure the runner in its fully closed state. The length in millimetres from the very front to the very rear edge of the metal profile is the nominal length. This generally corresponds to the depth of the drawer side panel.

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