Assembling the EMIL Chest of Drawers — Step-by-Step Guide

April 20, 2026

The professional assembly of the EMIL chest of drawers requires systematic screwing of the carcass using cam lock fittings and the precise alignment of the drawer runners to ensure smooth, snag-free opening and closing.

The EMIL furniture range is characterised by clean lines and a modular design. Depending on the chosen model, the series provides flexible room solutions: a slim version with a depth of just 30 cm or 35 cm is ideal for narrow hallways, whilst wider models with widths of 70 cm, 75 cm or even 100 cm provide ample storage for living spaces. The components also vary in colour – from classic finishes such as a White chest of drawers to a striking Black chest of drawers or a natural Wood chest of drawers.

Regardless of which version you have chosen, the fundamental assembly principle remains identical. This guide will walk you through the assembly process step by step.

Scope of Delivery and Preparation

Before reaching for your tools, it is advisable to open all boxes carefully and check the contents for completeness. Lay out the parts neatly, as if on an operating table – this prevents lengthy searches later on and avoids assembly errors.

The package generally includes:

Side panels, base panel and top panel (typically made of melamine-faced chipboard)
Drawer fronts, sides and back panels
Drawer bases and the cabinet back panel (often supplied as thin HDF board)
Fittings pack: wooden dowels, cam lock fittings (consisting of cam connecting bolts and cam lock housings), chipboard screws, nails
Drawer runners (depending on the model, supplied as roller runners or ball bearing runners)
Furniture feet or glides
Handles including matching threaded screws

Tools Required

You do not require any specialist tools to assemble the EMIL series. A solid basic tool set is sufficient:

Cross-head screwdriver (size PZ 2 or PH 2, depending on the screw head)
Small hammer (ideally a rubber mallet for the dowels)
Tape measure or folding ruler
Spirit level
Cordless screwdriver (optional, but helpful for long screws – ensure the torque is set low!)
Drill (for subsequent wall mounting)

Allow around 1.5 to 2.5 hours for assembly, depending on your experience and the size of the model (for example, a 4-drawer chest of drawers goes together faster than an 8-drawer chest of drawers). Assembly can easily be done alone, although a second person is helpful when standing the carcass upright.

Step-by-Step Assembly Instructions

Step 1: Preparing the Carcass Parts

Place both large side panels flat on the floor (use the cardboard packaging as an underlay to prevent scratches to the decorative finish).

Tap the wooden dowels into the designated blind holes. A drop of wood glue (if available) will increase subsequent stability.
Screw the cam connecting bolts of the cam lock fittings into the small, pre-drilled holes (usually 5 mm in diameter).
Now mount the drawer runners onto the side panels. Pay close attention to the instructions: the runners must be fixed at the specified points (often on a System 32 hole pattern) using short chipboard screws. The opening of the runner must face the front edge of the side panel.

Step 2: Assembling the Carcass

Fit the base panel and any cross struts onto the wooden dowels and bolts of the first side panel.
Insert the round cam lock housings of the cam lock fittings into the large, circular drillings in the base panel. The small arrow on the housing must point towards the bolt.
Turn the housing approximately 180° clockwise using a screwdriver until the bolt is firmly tightened.
Repeat this process with the top panel and finally place the second side panel on top. Tighten all connectors here as well.

Step 3: Attaching the Back Panel (Crucial for Stability)

The carcass is still unstable. It is the back panel that gives the piece of furniture its diagonal rigidity.

Carefully turn the carcass face down.
Measure both diagonals of the carcass (from corner to corner) using a tape measure. If both dimensions are identical to the millimetre, the carcass is perfectly square.
Lay the HDF board flush onto the back.
Nail the back panel securely all around the edges at intervals of around 10 cm to 15 cm.

Step 4: Assembling the Drawers

Assembling the drawers simply requires patience, especially if you have selected a model with multiple drawer units.

Connect the drawer sides to the drawer back (usually using long chipboard screws).
Slide the thin drawer base into the grooves of the side panels.
Prepare the front panel: insert the wooden dowels and screw in the cam connecting bolts.
Push the front panel onto the drawer sides and secure the cam lock fittings.
Screw the handles onto the front from the rear.
Mount the matching parts of the drawer runners onto the lower outer edges of the drawer.

Step 5: Positioning and Alignment

Move the chest of drawers to its intended location. If you are using the piece as a Bedroom chest of drawers, ensure it is not placed too close to radiators. Use a spirit level to check whether the unit is level. Compensate for any floor unevenness by placing small wedges underneath or by adjusting the furniture feet.

Now slide the drawers into the runners. With ball bearing runners, the slides often need to engage with a slight resistance.

Wall Mounting and Anti-Tip Protection

Furniture with a shallow depth of 30 cm, for example, is prone to tipping over if several heavily loaded drawers are opened simultaneously. Therefore, wall mounting is mandatory. Use the supplied anti-tip bracket. Drill a hole in the wall using a power drill and use a wall plug suited to your wall structure (concrete, masonry, plasterboard). Screw the bracket securely to the wall and then to the top panel or the rear wooden crossbar of the chest.

Tips & Common Pitfalls

Uneven gap widths: If the drawers hang crookedly or the gaps between the fronts are uneven, the carcass is usually not level. Check its position using a spirit level.
Back panel overhangs: If the diagonals were not aligned precisely in Step 3, the carcass is out of square. The back panel cannot then be nailed on flush, and the drawers will bind later.
Screws stripping the wood: If you use a cordless screwdriver, do not set the torque too high. Otherwise, the chipboard can tear out and the screw will lose its grip.
Visuals in the room: Dark furniture, such as a Grey chest of drawers, can look bulky in small rooms. Ensure there is adequate lighting in the space to highlight the contours of the piece.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Can I easily remove the drawers when moving house? Yes. With simple roller runners, pull the drawer out as far as it goes and lift it slightly to clear the rollers over the stop. With ball bearing runners, there is usually a small plastic lever on the side of the slide that must be pushed up or down to release the drawer completely.

What should I do if a wooden dowel is too loose? Tolerances in drill holes can occur. Add a drop of standard wood glue into the hole, insert the dowel, and allow the glue to cure for around 30 minutes before proceeding with the assembly.

The drawer does not close flush with the carcass. Why is this? Check whether the drawer runners on the carcass were screwed into the exact pre-drilled holes. Often, mounting a runner just 2 mm out of alignment is enough to prevent the front from closing cleanly.

The EMIL Series at a Glance

Proper assembly lays the foundation for the durability of your furniture. Thanks to standardised joints and hardware fittings, the EMIL series can be constructed systematically. Always ensure that the carcass is square and that the wall mounting is secure. The modular features of the range allow the furniture to be tailored precisely to the spatial requirements – whether as a low sideboard in the living room or as a tall storage unit in a dressing area.