Assembling the EMIL Sideboard — Step-by-Step Assembly Guide

December 8, 2025

Assembling the EMIL sideboard requires around 60 to 90 minutes of time, standard hand tools, and a clear floor area of at least two square metres.

The EMIL range is among the most versatile unit furniture for living and bedroom areas. Due to its compact dimensions – frequently sought in widths from 70 cm to 110 cm and a shallow depth of 30 cm or 35 cm – this piece of furniture is ideal for narrow hallways or as a space-saving storage solution in the bedroom. Whether the surface is finished in classic white, anthracite, or as a wood-look finish, the basic construction of the melamine-coated chipboard remains identical.

This guide walks you step by step through the assembly, from unboxing to the correct adjustment of the hinges.

Scope of Delivery and Preparation

Before you begin assembly, check the package contents against the included parts list. A complete kit for the EMIL sideboard usually includes:

Carcass components (side panels, base, top panel, shelves)
Back panel (usually a folding MDF board, typically 2.5 mm to 3 mm thick)
Fronts (doors and/or drawer fronts)
Fittings bag (screws, wooden dowels, cam lock fasteners, concealed hinges, shelf supports)
Drawer runners (usually roller runners as partial extensions)
Furniture feet or plinth panel

Sort the fittings beforehand like spanners in a workshop trolley – within easy reach and separated by size. This saves tedious searching during assembly and prevents confusion over screw lengths.

Required Tools

For smooth assembly of the chests of drawers & sideboards from this range, you do not require any specialist tools. Have the following ready:

Pozi screwdriver (size PZ2 for most furniture fittings)
Slotted screwdriver (for tightening the cam locks)
Rubber mallet (for the wooden dowels)
Spirit level and folding rule or tape measure
Drill with a 6 mm or 8 mm masonry drill bit (only for wall mounting)
A soft blanket as an underlay to prevent scratches on the components

Step-by-Step Assembly Guide

1. Preparing the Carcass

Lay the side panels flat on your prepared underlay. Screw the connecting bolts of the cam lock fasteners into the pre-drilled, small holes (usually 5 mm diameter). Use the Pozi screwdriver for this. Next, insert the wooden dowels into the dedicated 8 mm holes on the end faces of the base panel and cross rails. A light tap with the rubber mallet helps if the dowels fit tightly.

Tip: Do not add wood glue to the dowels unless the instructions explicitly require it. The mechanical joint is completely sufficient for this system and allows the piece of furniture to remain demountable.

2. Fitting the Drawer Runners (if present)

Before assembling the carcass, the cabinet-side roller runners must be fixed to the inside of the side panels. Ensure that the plastic roller of the runner faces towards the front edge of the sideboard. Secure the runners with the included Euro screws (often 6.3 x 13 mm) in the pre-drilled row of holes (the System 32).

3. Assembling the Carcass

Fit the base panel and any centre dividing panels onto the wooden dowels and connecting bolts of the first side panel. Insert the round cam lock housings into the large holes (usually 15 mm) in the base panel. The small arrow on the cam lock must point towards the connecting bolt. Turn the cam lock approximately 180° clockwise using the slotted screwdriver until the joint pulls tight. Repeat this process with the second side panel.

4. Attaching the Back Panel

Carefully turn the carcass onto its front edge. Position the back panel. Before securing it with the supplied nails or small chipboard screws, the carcass must be aligned precisely at right angles. To do this, measure both diagonals of the rear using your tape measure. If both measurements are identical to the millimetre, the carcass is square. Now nail the back panel into place – start at one corner and work your way along the edges.

5. Fitting the Top Panel and Feet

Depending on the model, the furniture feet are now screwed to the underside. Then stand the sideboard upright. Place the top panel onto the prepared fixings of the side panels from above and tighten the final cam lock fasteners. Especially on models with delicate surfaces, such as matt black sideboards or high-gloss sideboards, you should enlist a second person when fitting the heavy top panel to avoid tilting or canting.

6. Inserting Doors and Drawers

Mount the cruciform mounting plates onto the side panels. Insert the concealed hinge into the 35 mm cup hole of the door and screw it in at right angles. Clip or slide the hinge arm onto the mounting plate and secure the screw. For the drawers, screw the drawer sides together, insert the base, and attach the front. The runner tracks are screwed underneath the sides of the drawer. Guide the drawer into the cabinet runner at a slight upward angle until the rollers slide over one another.

Wall Mounting and Anti-Tip Protection

A narrow sideboard with a depth of only 30 cm or 35 cm tends to tip forward when doors are opened or drawers are extended – especially when heavy items are stored near the front. Wall fixing is therefore strictly necessary.

Use the included metal bracket. Drill a hole into the wall using the masonry drill bit, insert a suitable wall plug, and screw the bracket securely to the wall and then to the top panel or rear rail of the sideboard. Pay attention to any electrical cables or water pipes running inside the wall.

Tips & Common Pitfalls

Incorrect Hinge Crank: Ensure you check whether you are fitting a door at the outer edge of the sideboard (full overlay) or a door on a central dividing wall (half overlay/twin application). The hinges often differ by a slight crank in the hinge arm. If these are mixed up, the doors will not close or will obstruct one another.
Overtightened Screws: Use a cordless screwdriver only on a low torque setting. Chipboard does not forgive overtightened screws. The thread will strip out, leaving the screw with no grip.
Adjusting Gaps and Reveals: If the doors hang crookedly, adjust the concealed hinge. The front screw on the hinge arm regulates the lateral gap (left/right), the rear screw adjusts the depth distance to the carcass (in/out), and the screws on the mounting plate adjust the vertical position (up/down).

Even budget sideboards achieve exceptional stability and a clean, neat appearance through precise assembly and finely tuned door gaps. Take sufficient time at the end to align the fronts properly.

FAQ – Frequently Asked Questions about Assembly

Can I assemble the EMIL sideboard on my own? Yes, the majority of the assembly can easily be managed by one person. A second person is only helpful when standing the carcass upright and placing the top panel, preventing leverage forces from damaging the connecting bolts.

Will the sideboard support my television? The top panel of a standard sideboard made from 16 mm thick chipboard generally supports televisions up to approximately 30 kg without issue, provided the load is distributed evenly. If you wish to place very heavy equipment, a dedicated TV sideboard unit is recommended, which often features additional central support legs or reinforced top panels.

What should I do if a drawer catches when pulling it out? Check whether the cabinet runners are fitted exactly horizontal and ensure no screw heads from the Euro screws sit in the running path of the plastic roller. All screws must sit completely flush inside the countersunk holes of the runner.

The doors slam shut loudly; can I change this? If the hinges do not come with integrated soft-close damping from the factory, you can retrofit universal add-on soft-close dampers for concealed hinges or stick simple silicone door buffers (bumpons) to the inside of the doors.