Assembling the EMIL Wardrobe — Step-by-Step Guide

Correct assembly of the EMIL furniture range requires a systematic approach following the instructions, suitable tools, and ideally two people to ensure lasting structural stability.

The EMIL range offers functional storage solutions for various room sizes. Whether you are assembling a compact unit for the hallway or a full-sized wardrobe for the bedroom, the basic construction of the carcass remains identical. This guide takes you through the assembly process, from sorting the fittings to final door adjustments.

Preparation and Contents

Thorough preparation saves time during assembly and prevents mistakes. The range includes various dimensions — from compact options to a large wardrobe. Typical measurements for the bedroom are a height of 180 cm and a continuous depth of 50 cm, offering ample room for standard clothes hangers.

Unpack all parcels carefully. Use the empty cardboard boxes as a soft surface on the floor to avoid scratching the coated components (such as a grey wardrobe or models in a concrete effect).

First, sort all small parts. Pre-sorting screws is the foundation of a smooth process — keeping an overview means reaching blindly for the correct connector later. Separate wooden dowels, chipboard screws, back panel nails, and hinges into individual containers.

Required Tools

You do not need specialised equipment for the assembly. The following tools should be ready:

• Cordless screwdriver with matching bits (usually PZ size 2 for chipboard screws, occasionally PH for fittings)
• Manual screwdriver for fine adjustments
• Rubber mallet (or a standard hammer used with a piece of scrap wood as protection)
• Tape measure or folding ruler
• Spirit level
• Pencil
• Step ladder (for models with a height of 180 cm and above)

Step-by-Step Assembly

Assembly is best carried out lying flat on the floor. Ensure there is enough space — the room footprint should at least match the dimensions of the flat carcass plus one metre of working clearance.

Step 1: Assembling the Plinth and Base Panel

Begin with the plinth area. Join the plinth panels to the base panel. Cam and dowel connectors are usually used here. First, tap the wooden dowels into the prepared end-grain holes (often 8 mm). Screw the cam connecting bolts into the pre-drilled holes in the base panel. Fit the parts together and turn the cam casing 180° clockwise with a screwdriver until the joint pulls tight.

Step 2: Attaching the Side Panels and Partitions

Now secure the outer side panels to the base panel. On wider models, such as a 200 cm wide wardrobe often shared by two people, there are additional central partitions. These are pushed on and fixed identically to the outer sides. Pay close attention to the alignment of the grooves on the rear edge — they must run in a straight line, as the back panel is later slid into them or nailed on.

Step 3: Fitting the Top Panel

Guide the top panel onto the side panels and central partitions from above. As this component is large and unwieldy, a second person should support it to avoid breaking the wooden dowels. Then lock all upper cam and dowel connectors.

Step 4: Securing the Back Panel

The back panel provides the carcass with its final stability. Without it, the wardrobe would collapse sideways. Before fastening, always measure the diagonals of the carcass (from the top-left corner to the bottom-right corner and vice versa). Both measurements must match exactly to the millimetre. Only then is the wardrobe perfectly square. Nail or screw the back panel (usually HDF boards) securely along the edges. Nails should be spaced roughly 15 cm apart.

Step 5: Standing the Wardrobe Upright

This step strictly requires two people. Carefully tilt the wardrobe upright over its long edge (or plinth, depending on ceiling height). Ensure the carcass does not pivot on a single corner, as the material could break out. Move the wardrobe to its final position and align it using a spirit level. On uneven floors, place small levelling wedges under the plinth.

Interior Fittings and Door Installation

Once the carcass stands stable, fit out the interior. The EMIL series uses standardised shelf supports for the shelves, inserted into pre-drilled hole patterns (usually System 32 with a 5 mm hole diameter).

Wardrobe rails sit inside the corresponding brackets, which have been fixed to the side panels beforehand with short chipboard screws. Additional wardrobe accessories, such as supplementary drawer inserts, are integrated into the lower compartments according to instructions.

Attaching Doors: Hinged Doors vs. Sliding Doors

Fitting the fronts depends on the chosen model type.

For models with standard hinged doors: Fix the cross mounting plate to the carcass side panels. The concealed cup hinge (usually with a standard cup diameter of 35 mm) is inserted into the door drillings and screwed tightly. Clip or slide the hinges onto the mounting plates. As the doors are mostly full overlay, these are full overlay hinges. Once hung, adjust the doors using the screws on the hinge arm:

• Front screw: Adjusts the door left or right (gap width).
• Rear screw: Adjusts the distance between the door and the carcass (depth).
• Mounting plate screws: Allow vertical height adjustment.

For a model configured as a sliding door wardrobe: Mount the aluminium or plastic guide rails to the top and base panels. Screw the runners to the top edge and the guide pins to the bottom edge of the door panels. Hang the inner door first (tilt into the top rail, then clip into the bottom), followed by the outer door.

Wall Anchoring and Anti-Tip Protection

A substantial wardrobe, especially when loaded or used as a children's room wardrobe, must be secured to the wall. Opening doors shifts the centre of gravity forward. Use the supplied metal brackets. For wall mounting, ensure you use wall plugs and screws designed for your specific wall construction (concrete, brick, plasterboard). Standard wall plugs included in typical packs are generally suited only for solid masonry.

Common Assembly Pitfalls

• Damaged Edges: Dragging panels across the floor during unpacking chips the melamine coating quickly. This is particularly noticeable on dark finishes, like a dark brown wood wardrobe. Always work on cardboard or a rug.
• Incorrect Screw Length: Using screws that are too long for the fittings can puncture the outer surface of the 16 mm or 18 mm thick board material. Check length details in the instructions carefully (e.g. 3.5 x 16 mm vs 3.5 x 25 mm).
• Out-of-Square Back Panel: Nailing the back panel without checking diagonals first leaves the wardrobe out of square. The doors will not sit flush later, regardless of hinge adjustments.

FAQ – Frequently Asked Questions About the EMIL Range

How much time should I plan for assembly? For a standard two-door model, two people need around 1.5 to 2 hours. Wider models (200 cm and above) or versions with complex sliding doors and drawers may take 3 to 4 hours.

Can I adjust the shelf height individually? Yes. The side panels feature continuous hole lines. You can remove the shelf supports at any time and reinsert them at a different height (on a 32 mm grid) to accommodate tall boots or flat stacks of clothes.

The wardrobe doors are rubbing against each other. What can I do? This is caused by misaligned hinges or an uneven floor. First, check with a spirit level that the wardrobe is plumb. If it is, turn the front adjustment screw on the cup hinge to widen the lateral gap between the doors.

Do standard clothes hangers fit in the wardrobe? Yes. The carcass depth of 50 cm ensures standard clothes hangers hang across the rail without sleeves of jackets or shirts getting pinched when closing the door.