Flap Stays as Replacements for Alno Kitchen Cabinets

May 17, 2026

A compatible replacement flap stay for an Alno kitchen cabinet requires precise matching of the spring force in Newtons (N), the installation length in millimetres, and the correct hole pattern.

Alno kitchens are known for their durable carcases, yet mechanical and pneumatic moving components naturally suffer from wear and tear over time. If your wall unit front no longer stays open or drops down when opened, the lifting mechanism is usually defective. Since the original manufacturer used specific fittings, finding an alternative for Alno cabinets requires careful technical consideration. An exact 1:1 replacement is often not strictly necessary, provided the physical parameters of the new fitting match the geometry of the cabinet.

This guide is aimed at fitters and experienced DIY enthusiasts looking to repair or upgrade a wall cabinet mechanism.

Key Compatibility Factors to Check

To identify a suitable replacement, three core parameters of the old mechanism must be established. Merely estimating the weight of the front panel inevitably leads to malfunctions: if the fitting is too weak, the door will drop. If it is too strong, closing the cabinet will require excessive force, overloading the hinges.

1. Force in Newtons (N)

For pneumatic systems, the lifting force is critical. This is specified in Newtons. The cylinder of the old gas strut usually has a rating printed on it (for example, "250 N" or "320 N"). If this marking is missing, the front panel including the handle must be weighed. As a rough rule of thumb, 10 N corresponds to a lifting capacity of around 1 kg. However, due to the leverage effect of the flap, this value must be calculated with the front height and adjusted to the opening angle. Heavy MDF or glass-insert fronts often require stays rated between 350 N and 500 N.

2. Installation Dimensions and Stroke

The installation dimension refers to the distance from ball joint to ball joint when fully extended. Common lengths range between 240 mm and 270 mm. The stroke defines the actual travel distance of the piston rod. Much like a vehicle shock absorber, the working travel must match the opening angle of the flap (typically 75°, 90°, or 110°) exactly to prevent the concealed hinges from being overstretched.

3. Hole Pattern and Mounting

Check the existing drill holes in the carcase. Many kitchen manufacturers use the standardised System 32, where the holes are spaced exactly 32 mm apart. The drilling diameter for the fixing screws is usually 5 mm (for Euro screws) or 3 mm (pilot hole for chipboard screws). If the new mounting bracket features a different hole pattern, new holes will need to be drilled.

Suitable furnica Fittings as an Alternative

Different mechanisms are used depending on the cabinet design. The fittings in our range are engineered to be suitable for Alno and other established kitchen systems, provided the technical dimensions match.

Pneumatic Stays for Wall Cabinets

For standard upward-opening flaps, gas struts are the most common solution. They assist the opening movement and hold the front securely in its end position. When refurbishing an older kitchen, you will find suitable Gas Struts for Heavy Flaps in our selection. Always ensure you replace the struts on both sides (left and right inside the carcase). Replacing only one side leads to asymmetrical force distribution, twisting the cabinet body and drastically shortening the lifespan of the new stay.

Mechanical Stays and Cable Mechanisms

Some wall units rely on mechanical flap stays operated by an adjustable spring or a internal cable system. The key benefit of these units is their stepless adjustability. Using an adjustment screw, the braking force can be fine-tuned precisely to the weight of the front. These mechanisms are ideal replacements for Alno bi-fold lift-up cabinets. For a wide selection of mechanical options, browse our Flap Stays range.

Drop-Down Flap Stays for Downward-Opening Fronts

If the flap opens downwards (for instance, on a drinks cabinet or a compartment above an oven), an entirely different mechanism is required. Here, no lifting force is applied. Instead, a drop-down stay must cushion the descent of the front and support it securely at 90°. Once again, the Newton rating or maximum load capacity in kilograms is the decisive selection criterion.

Tip for kitchen refurbishments: If you are already working on your wall units to replace worn fittings, it is often worthwhile upgrading other internal components. A retrofitted Wall Unit Plate Rack optimises storage above the sink. Similarly, existing fronts can be refreshed with modern Kitchen Furniture Handles, while fitting a 60 cm Kitchen Cabinet Pull-Out into base units significantly improves accessibility and ergonomics.

Installation and Retrofitting: Step-by-Step Technical Guide

Replacing a flap fitting requires precision. Inaccurate positioning will prevent the flap from closing flush or cause it to bind.

Required tools:

Cordless screwdriver with PZ2 (Pozidriv) bit
Folding rule or calliper
Bradawl or centre punch
Wood drill bit (3 mm or 5 mm, depending on screw type)

Step 1: Removal and securing Open the flap fully. A second person must support the front panel securely, as it will drop immediately once the first stay is disconnected. Release the retaining clips on the gas strut using a flat-head screwdriver and pull the cylinder off the ball stud.

Step 2: Checking fixing positions Measure the distance between the original mounting points on the side panel and the door front. Compare these measurements with the installation instructions of the new fitting. If the existing hole pattern is compatible with the new stay, you can often reuse the existing ball studs.

Step 3: Drilling new holes (if required) If the mounting brackets need to be repositioned, mark the new locations accurately according to the manufacturer specifications. For side panels made of chipboard (typically 16 mm or 19 mm thick), pre-drill using a 3 mm drill bit to a maximum depth of 10 mm. Ideally, use a depth stop to avoid drilling straight through the side panel.

Step 4: Installation and adjustment Screw the new mounting plates firmly into place. Use suitable chipboard screws (typically 4 x 15 mm). Next, push the new strut or stay onto the ball studs until you hear them click into position. Finally, check the alignment and gap spacing of the closed flap. Fine adjustments (height, side, depth) are not carried out on the flap stay itself, but via the adjustment screws on the concealed hinges.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) on Compatibility

Can I install a strut with a higher Newton rating to hold the flap open better? No. The force of the gas strut must match the weight of the front precisely. A tolerance of +/- 10% is acceptable. If the strut is significantly too strong (e.g. 350 N instead of 250 N), closing the flap will be very difficult, and the continuous pressure will eventually tear the hinges out of the carcase.

What is the difference between Soft-Close and Push-to-Open for cabinet flaps? These two mechanisms serve opposite functions and must not be confused. Soft-Close is a damping system that gently cushions the door during the final centimetres of closing (often built into the concealed hinge). Push-to-Open (or Tip-On) is a mechanical release mechanism for handleless fronts, which pops the door open slightly when pressed. A flap stay must be explicitly rated for handleless opening if no handle is fitted.

Why does my flap fail to close flush after replacing the stays? If the new stays have been installed correctly, the issue is typically caused by altered geometry or misaligned hinges. Slightly loosen the mounting screw on the full overlay hinge arm, align the door in its closed position, and retighten the screws. Also verify that the stroke of the new strut is not too long for the cabinet carcase.