Flap Stays Suitable for Alno Kitchens

A flap stay supports the front of a wall unit when opening upwards or downwards, whereby the required holding force must be matched exactly to the flap weight in Newtons.

When the front of a wall cabinet no longer remains in the open position and drops shut on its own, the lifting mechanism is usually defective. Many fitted kitchens feature wall units with flap doors whose wearing parts need replacing after several years. Anyone looking for a replacement for an Alno kitchen does not necessarily have to source an identical component from the original manufacturer. Technical compatibility is the decisive factor for a successful replacement.

This guide is aimed at fitters and experienced tradespeople who want to identify a suitable replacement fitting and install it correctly.

What to Look for Regarding Compatibility

To find a fitting that is suitable for an Alno kitchen, the physical and geometric properties of the existing component must be precisely recorded. A direct replacement is straightforward if the drill holes, length dimensions, and force ratings match.

Holding Force in Newtons

The most important parameter during selection is the force of the gas strut, specified in Newtons (N). The gas pressure damper works like a vehicle shock absorber – if the compressed gas inside escapes over the years through micro-cracks in the seals, supporting force is lost and the flap drops down.

A value is usually printed on the cylinder of the old damper, such as "250 N" or "380 N". This value must be identical or minimally higher on the new component. If a damper with insufficient force is selected, the door will not stay open. If the force is too high, closing the cabinet requires significant physical effort.

Dimensions and Hole Pattern

Alongside force, the installation length is crucial. This is measured as the distance from the centre of the upper ball socket to the centre of the lower ball socket in the fully extended state. Typical lengths are in the range of 245 mm - 270 mm.

Mounting plates on the cabinet interior and on the front are usually based on the System 32 standard in furniture construction. This means the centre-to-centre distance of the drill holes is 32 mm. If the new fitting uses this hole pattern, the existing drill holes in the cabinet can be reused directly.

Opening Direction: Upwards or Downwards?

The mechanics differ fundamentally depending on the direction of movement of the front:

• Lift-up flap stay: The door opens upwards. The damper actively pushes the front upwards and holds it open against gravity.
• Drop-down flap stay: The door opens downwards (e.g. on a bar unit). Here, the fitting must brake the falling front and support the weight in the horizontal 90° position so that the chipboard or hinges do not tear out.

Suitable furnica Parts as an Alternative

Once the technical specifications of the old component are determined, the suitable replacement can be identified. For standard wall units made of MDF or with melamine coating, a classic flap stay with gas piston technology is often sufficient. These models usually cover the range from 50 N to 150 N per piece. It is recommended to always replace both sides of a cabinet simultaneously to avoid asymmetric loading of the front.

For very large fronts, such as wide folding flaps or doors with heavy glass inserts, a standard model is not enough. Here, an alternative with a higher load capacity is needed. A gas damper for heavy flaps delivers forces from 300 N to over 450 N and keeps even heavy constructions securely in the open position.

In addition to pure gas piston technology, there are mechanical stays that operate via a cable pull or adjustable friction. These models offer the advantage of stopping the front at any desired opening angle (multi-position stop), but often require a different milling pattern in the carcass.

Installation and Retrofitting in the Workshop

Replacing a defective damper with a compatible furnica component is a standardised procedure.

Required tools:

• Pozi screwdriver (PZ2)
• Tape measure
• Flat-head screwdriver (small, for releasing clips)
• Optional: Cordless screwdriver

Step-by-step installation:

1. Removal: Support the front. Using the small flat-head screwdriver, gently lift the metal retaining clip at the ball joints of the old damper. The damper can now be pulled off the mounting plate.
2. Checking brackets: Check whether the ball studs of the old mounting plates have the same diameter as the sockets of the new damper. If this is the case, the old plates can remain on the carcass.
3. Plate replacement (if necessary): If the ball studs do not fit, unscrew the old plates. Thanks to compatibility with the 32 mm system, the new brackets can usually be screwed into the same 5 mm holes.
4. Installation: Position the new damper with the thicker cylinder side facing upwards and press it onto the ball studs until the safety clip audibly clicks into place.
5. Adjustment: Check the closing action. If the front does not close flush, the concealed hinge on the top edge of the cabinet must be readjusted using the eccentric screw.

Further Maintenance Work on Fitted Kitchens

When replacing defective fittings on wall units, it is often worth looking at other kitchen equipment to refresh the functionality of the entire run of units.

Storage space directly inside or under the wall unit can be optimised with a dish rack for wall cabinets. This is particularly practical above the sink, as wet dishes can be put away immediately while dripping water is caught in an integrated tray.

A visual upgrade of the fronts can be achieved without replacing the doors by fitting new kitchen furniture handles. You only need to ensure the correct hole centre spacing (e.g. 128 mm or 160 mm).

In base units, runners are usually the components that become stiff after years of use. If old roller runners are installed, switching to modern kitchen cabinet drawer runners with full extension and soft-close damping is worthwhile. For standard carcass widths, precisely fitting systems are available, such as a 60 cm kitchen cabinet pull-out. To neatly structure the interior after replacing runners, a kitchen drawer organiser creates order for cutlery and cooking utensils.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

How do I calculate the required force in Newtons if the print is missing? As a rule of thumb, 1 kg of front weight corresponds to roughly 10 N of holding force. Weigh the door. With a weight of 4 kg, you theoretically need 40 N. Because leverage and opening angles increase the required force, this value is often doubled in practice. For a 4 kg front, using two dampers rated at 50 N to 60 N each is recommended.

Can I replace a 250 N damper with a 320 N model? This is technically possible, but it significantly alters the operation. The door will push up much faster when opening and require considerably more effort to close. It is advised not to exceed a tolerance of +20 N to a maximum of +50 N.

Why does my flap no longer close softly after replacing the damper? A gas strut is not a furniture damper for the closing movement. It supports the weight during opening. If the door slams hard against the carcass when closing, either stick-on silicone buffers are missing from the front corners, or the fitted concealed hinges lack an integrated soft-close mechanism.

What is the difference between roller runners and ball bearing runners for drawers? A roller runner operates on plastic wheels and is usually designed as a partial extension. A ball bearing runner uses small steel balls within a telescopic profile, permits high load capacities, and is generally fitted as a full extension. Both systems have different installation dimensions and cannot be swapped without altering the drill holes.