Full-Extension Runners as Replacements for Pelipal Kitchens

A full-extension runner extends to 100%, whereas a single-extension runner inherently leaves around 25% of the drawer depth inside the cabinet carcass.

When drawers stick, open stiffly, or the integrated soft-close fails, replacing the drawer runners becomes necessary. Wear and tear on the rollers or ball-bearing mechanisms occurs particularly with heavily loaded drawers. If you are looking for replacement parts for a Pelipal kitchen or bathroom furniture, you are not strictly limited to manufacturer-specific components. Because the European furniture industry largely relies on standardised grid dimensions, defective runners can be replaced smoothly with standard-compliant fittings.

This guide is aimed at fitters and experienced tradespeople who want to replace a defective runner with a compatible alternative for Pelipal or upgrade an existing single-extension runner to a full-extension runner.

What to Consider Regarding Compatibility

To determine the exact kitchen cabinet runners for the replacement, three technical parameters are crucial: the nominal length, the hole pattern, and the runner mechanism.

1. Nominal Length and Installation Depth

The nominal length (NL) defines the actual length of the runner when fully closed. It is measured in millimetres and, for standard furniture, usually ranges between 250 mm and 600 mm. The nominal length must strictly match the carcass depth. The clear carcass depth (internal measurement from the front edge of the carcass to the back panel) must be at least the nominal length plus 3 mm to 5 mm of installation clearance.

2. System 32 and the Hole Pattern

Almost all modern carcass systems are based on System 32. This means:

• The vertical distance between screw holes is exactly 32 mm.
• The distance from the front edge of the carcass to the first vertical row of holes is standardly 37 mm.

When fitting replacement parts suitable for Pelipal, you can generally reuse the existing drill holes in the carcass, provided the new runner also conforms to System 32.

3. Runner Mechanism: Undermount vs Ball-Bearing

Check which type of runner is installed. An undermount runner sits concealed beneath the drawer base. The drawer is placed onto the runner and secured at the front with a locking clip. A ball-bearing runner, on the other hand, is screwed to the sides of the drawer box and to the internal carcass wall. These two systems cannot be swapped without structural adjustments to the wooden drawer box.

4. Load Capacity

The load capacity indicates how much dynamic weight the runners can support when fully extended. Standard runners are designed for 25 kg to 30 kg. For wide drawers used to store heavy pots or crockery, a load capacity of 40 kg to 50 kg is recommended.

Suitable Runners for Various Cabinet Widths

The choice of runner depends directly on the width and depth of the cabinet. When upgrading kitchen interiors, dimensions are based on the external width of the carcass.

For a wide 60 cm kitchen cabinet pull-out, a runner with a nominal length of 450 mm or 500 mm is usually required, depending on the carcass depth. Such wide drawers tend to tilt or bind under asymmetrical loading. A runner with integrated lateral stabilisers and a high load capacity is the technical standard here.

For a 50 cm kitchen cabinet pull-out or a narrower 40 cm kitchen cabinet pull-out, a standard load rating of 30 kg is often sufficient. If a waste bin system is integrated into these pull-outs, the dynamic loads increase due to frequent opening and closing. Special heavy-duty runners are ideal here, ensuring smooth movement even with a fully loaded pull-out kitchen bin.

Once the mechanism is renewed, it is often worthwhile to adapt the interior organisation of the drawer to the newly accessible, full extension depth. A tailored kitchen drawer organiser prevents utensils and cutlery from sliding around when closing the drawer.

Installation and Upgrading: Step by Step

Replacing a runner is like adjusting bicycle gears: if the spacings are accurate to the millimetre, the mechanism runs smoothly. Proceed methodically during removal and assembly.

Required Tools

• Cordless screwdriver with torque adjustment
• Pozi screwdriver bit (usually PZ size 2 for chipboard screws)
• Tape measure (in mm)
• Try square
• Bradawl or centre punch for marking new drill points

Step 1: Removing the Old Runners

Remove the drawer box. With an undermount runner, reach under the front and release the locking clips on the left and right to detach the drawer from the runner. With a side-mounted ball-bearing runner, there is usually a small plastic lever inside the runner that must be pressed or lifted to pull the drawer out completely. Then unscrew the chipboard screws from the inner carcass wall and remove the old runners.

Step 2: Checking and Measuring the Hole Pattern

Hold the new runner against the carcass wall. Check whether the frontmost hole of the runner aligns with the existing hole (37 mm from the front edge). If it matches, you can use the existing System 32 drill holes. If not, use the try square to draw a horizontal line at the exact height of the old runner centre and mark the new drill points at 32 mm intervals.

Step 3: Mounting the New Runners

Screw the new runners onto the carcass wall. Use flat-head or countersunk screws with a diameter of 3.5 mm or 4 mm. Ensure that the screw heads sit completely flush against the metal of the runner. If the heads protrude, they will obstruct the inner runner profile.

Step 4: Adjusting Drawer Fronts and Handles

Place the drawer onto the new runners and push it gently into the carcass until the locking clips engage audibly. Check the alignment and reveal of the front. High-quality undermount runners feature adjustment wheels on the front clips. These allow precise adjustment of height (typically +/- 2 mm) and tilt (typically +/- 1.5 mm).

If you are also replacing the front fittings during the repair, ensure that the new kitchen furniture handles match the exact existing hole centres (e.g. 128 mm or 160 mm) to avoid having to drill new holes into the front.

FAQ: Frequently Asked Questions About Drawer Replacement Parts

Can I replace a single-extension runner with a full-extension runner? Yes, this is usually straightforward. The key factors are that the nominal length and mounting type (undermount or side ball-bearing) remain identical. The carcass must be deep enough to accommodate the full-extension runner.

How do I measure the nominal length correctly? Measure the metal runner when fully closed. Measure from the rear edge of the runner to the front edge (excluding any protruding plastic clips). The measurement is given in millimetres and corresponds to the nominal length.

Are soft-close replacement runners compatible with old drawers without damping? Yes. Soft-close is a feature integrated directly into the runner (a hydraulic or pneumatic damper). When you replace old undamped runners with new soft-close runners, the drawer is automatically upgraded with this functionality. You only need to ensure the runner matches the specific carcass drill pattern.

What is the difference between push-to-open and soft-close? These two mechanisms serve opposite purposes. Soft-close decelerates the drawer upon closing and pulls it gently into the carcass. Push-to-open (or tip-on) is an ejection mechanism for handleless fronts: pressing the front triggers a spring that pushes the drawer open. Both systems can only be combined in runners specifically engineered for dual action.