Assembling the GABRIEL Wardrobe — Step-by-Step Installation Guide

May 20, 2026

Proper assembly of a wardrobe requires an even floor, precise right-angle alignment of the carcass, and mandatory wall anchoring to prevent tipping.

The GABRIEL series offers modular solutions for bedroom and hallway layouts. Depending on room size and storage needs, the models vary in their dimensions. A classic measurement for compact spaces is a depth of 50 cm with a height of 180 cm. The range includes various configurations, from a narrow wardrobe 100 cm wide for alcoves to generous wardrobe walls measuring up to 3 or 4 metres wide for two people.

The finishes also vary visually: options range from a timeless wardrobe in white to modern variants in grey (for example in anthracite or concrete effect) through to classic wood-effect wardrobes in dark brown decors. Regardless of the chosen finish and size, the basic assembly principle of wardrobes in this series remains identical. This guide leads you through the installation process.

Required Tools and Preparation

Preparing for assembly is like laying out tools and parts before a car repair – searching for the right fixings mid-assembly wastes time and leads to mistakes. Sort all fittings into small trays beforehand.

The following tools are required for assembly:

Cordless screwdriver or hand screwdrivers (Pozidriv PZ 2, Torx TX 20)
Rubber mallet (or a standard hammer used with a scrap piece of wood to protect surfaces)
Spirit level (at least 60 cm long)
Folding rule or tape measure
Hammer drill and suitable masonry drill bits (for wall fixings)

Important: Assembly strictly requires two people. A carcass made of chipboard assembled flat on the floor has a high self-weight and will tear out at the joint points if tilted upright unevenly or without control. Depending on the size of the model (from a 2-door unit up to a 4-metre wardrobe wall), allow between 2 and 5 hours of actual assembly time.

Step-by-Step Assembly

Check the parts list beforehand against the included inventory. Make sure to line the floor with the cardboard packaging or a blanket to prevent scratches on the decorative surfaces.

Step 1: Assemble the Plinth and Base Panel

Begin with the base section. Connect the plinth panels to the base panel. For this, wooden dowels and cam lock fittings are typically used. Insert the dowels into the pre-drilled holes (never use excessive force; tap gently with a rubber mallet if necessary). Screw the connecting bolts into the base panel. Push the components together and turn the cam casing clockwise with a screwdriver until the joint is pulled flush and tight.

Step 2: Attach Side and Centre Panels

Lay the base panel flat on the floor. Fit the left and right side panels as well as (on wider models) the centre dividing panels onto the pre-fitted bolts in the base panel. Lock all cam lock fittings securely here as well.

Step 3: Fit the Top Panel

Position the top panel over the upright side and centre dividers. This step requires precision. Once all wooden dowels and bolts align with their corresponding drill holes, tighten the cam connectors. The carcass basic structure is now complete.

Step 4: Align and Nail the Back Panel

This is the most critical step for the overall stability of the furniture. Lay the carcass flat on the floor, facing downwards. Position the back panel (usually made of thin HDF board). Before hammering in the first back panel nail, the wardrobe must be perfectly square. To verify this, measure both diagonals of the carcass with a tape measure (from the top-left corner to the bottom-right corner, and vice versa). The carcass is square when both measurements are identical down to the millimetre. Now nail the back panel around the perimeter at intervals of roughly 15 cm to 20 cm.

Step 5: Stand the Wardrobe Upright

Lift the wardrobe into an upright position with two people, pivoting it along its long edge or base edge. Mind your ceiling height: the diagonal dimension of the side panel must be less than the room height, otherwise the wardrobe will strike the ceiling during lifting. Carefully slide the unit into its final position.

Step 6: Fit Wall Fixing (Anti-Tip Bracket)

A wardrobe with a height of 180 cm or more can tip forward when doors are opened or when loaded unevenly. Use the supplied mounting brackets to anchor the wardrobe securely to the wall. Ensure you use suitable wall plugs and screws matched to your wall construction (masonry, concrete, plasterboard). Use a spirit level to ensure the wardrobe is level and plumb before drilling. Use small levelling shims under the plinth if dealing with uneven flooring.

Step 7: Install Interior Fittings

Insert the shelf supports into the desired positions along the pre-drilled hole lines (System 32). Rest the internal shelves on top. Fit the wardrobe rail brackets to the side panels and drop the hanging rail into place. If you have acquired additional wardrobe accessories such as drawer inserts or pull-out trouser racks, install the matching runner slides in accordance with their detailed instructions.

Step 8: Fit the Doors

The installation of the fronts depends on the chosen system:

Hinged doors: Screw the cruciform mounting plates into the side panels. Insert and secure the concealed cup hinge into the 35 mm hole on the door. Modern hinges allow you to clip the door onto the mounting plate without tools. Pay attention to hinge positioning: use a full overlay on the outer sides and a half overlay on central partitions where two doors meet.
Sliding doors: If dealing with a wardrobe with sliding doors, first screw the top and bottom guide tracks onto the carcass. Attach the roller carriages to the doors. Hook the inner door into the rear track first, followed by the outer door into the front track.

Common Pitfalls and Practical Tips

Uneven door gaps: If the hinged doors hang crookedly or catch, the concealed cup hinge requires adjustment. Every hinge features three adjustment screws controlling height, depth, and lateral alignment. Adjust the front screw in small increments (quarter turns) to tilt the door left or right.
Wardrobe wobbles after positioning: This is usually caused by an uneven floor. Exact alignment using a spirit level and shimming beneath the base will resolve the issue. An unaligned carcass will cause doors to twist and bind.
Back panel bulges: This frequently occurs when the right angle was not maintained during nailing, or if nails missed the central dividing panel. Check your nailing line carefully before fixing.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much clearance do I need to stand the wardrobe upright? The diagonal clearance is crucial. Calculate the diagonal of the side panel (square root of height² + depth²). If this measurement exceeds your ceiling height, the unit must be assembled upright.

Can soft-close dampening be retrofitted to the doors? Yes, if your hinges do not feature integrated soft-close mechanisms, clip-on dampers can be added onto the concealed cup hinge, or separate drill-in door buffers can be installed directly into the carcass.

Can the wardrobe be dismantled when moving house? Thanks to the cam lock fitting system, the carcass can be taken apart without damaging the panels. Only the back panel nails must be extracted carefully with pliers to avoid damaging the HDF board.