How to Fit Concealed Cabinet Hinges

Concealed hinges, often referred to as Euro-style or cup hinges, provide a clean, modern finish because all the mechanical parts remain hidden when the cabinet door is closed. Whether you are building bespoke kitchen units, updating wardrobe doors, or replacing worn-out hardware, fitting concealed hinges is a precise but straightforward task once you understand the core measurements and setup.

Tools and Materials Required

Before beginning the installation, assemble the necessary tools to ensure accurate drilling and alignment:

• Standard concealed hinges or soft-close Euro hinges with mounting plates
• 35 mm Forstner drill bit or dedicated hinge hole cutter
• Corded or cordless drill (or a pillar drill for maximum precision)
• Concealed hinge installation jig (optional, but highly recommended)
• Combination square, tape measure, and sharp pencil
• Pozi-drive screwdriver (or drill driver with a clutch)
• Wood screws suitable for the cabinet carcass and door thickness

Marking and Drilling the Hinge Cup Holes

Proper concealed hinge fitting relies on exact positioning. Most standard Euro hinges require a 35 mm diameter hole drilled into the back of the door to house the hinge cup.

1. Positioning from the edges: Mark a centre line for each hinge typically 75 mm to 100 mm from the top and bottom of the door. For taller or heavier pantry doors, add a third or fourth hinge spaced evenly between them.
2. Setting the edge distance (tab): Measure in from the outer edge of the door to the edge of the hole. Standard tab distances usually range between 3 mm and 5 mm (meaning the centre of a 35 mm hole sits roughly 21.5 mm to 22.5 mm from the edge). Always check your specific hinge specifications.
3. Drilling to depth: Set a depth stop on your Forstner bit to roughly 11.5 mm to 12.5 mm, ensuring you do not drill through the front face of the door. Drill cleanly and keep the bit perpendicular to the surface.

Securing the Hinge to the Door

Once the cup recesses are clean and free of wood chips, slot the hinges into the holes. Align the hinge arm perfectly square to the edge of the door using a straight edge or a set square against the metal flanges. Pre-drill pilot holes using a 2 mm bit to avoid splitting the timber or MDF, then secure the hinge cups with countersunk wood screws.

Installing Mounting Plates on the Carcass

The next phase of fitting a concealed hinge involves mounting the baseplates inside the cabinet carcass:

• Measure carcass setback: For standard full-overlay doors, mounting plates are typically positioned 37 mm back from the front edge of the carcass to match the standard 32 mm system spacing.
• Mark vertical alignment: Transfer the centre line of the door hinge onto the internal side panel of the cabinet, factoring in any door overlay or gap at the top and bottom.
• Fasten plates: Pre-drill pilot holes and screw the mounting plates firmly into place.

Hanging the Door and Making Fine Adjustments

Modern Euro hinges feature either clip-on or slide-on mechanisms that attach the hinge arm to the mounting plate. Clip the hinges into position, starting with the top hinge, then test the swing of the door.

One of the major benefits of concealed hinges is their three-way adjustability:

• Side-to-side (Lateral): Turn the front screw on the hinge arm to adjust the door gap and eliminate skew.
• Height (Vertical): Loosen the top and bottom screws on the mounting plate to raise or lower the door, then retighten.
• Depth: Adjust the rear screw on the arm to move the door closer to or further away from the carcass face, ensuring a flush closure without binding.