How to Install Kitchen Cabinets: Hardware & Fittings

August 25, 2026

Fitting a new kitchen requires accurate measurement, patience, and the correct furniture hardware. While flat-pack carcasses are straightforward to assemble, the real challenge lies in mounting and levelling them so that doors hang straight, worktops sit flat, and wall units remain safe under heavy loads. Understanding which fittings to use at each stage ensures a professional, long-lasting finish.

Essential Hardware for Cabinet Fitting

Before you begin to install kitchen cabinets, you need the right set of specialised fittings on hand. Standard wood screws alone are not sufficient for a rigid, trade-standard installation. Key hardware includes:

Adjustable plinth legs: Attached to the base of lower carcasses to compensate for uneven subfloors and allow height adjustment (typically 100 mm to 150 mm).
Carcass connecting bolts: Sleeve-and-bolt fittings (often M4 or M6) designed to clamp adjacent cabinets together through pre-drilled holes.
Heavy-duty wall hanging brackets: Concealed or semi-concealed brackets fitted inside the top corners of wall units, paired with a metal suspension rail or heavy wall plates.
Wall fixings: Heavy-duty plugs or anchors suited specifically to your wall substrate (masonry, plasterboard, or timber stud).
Plinth clips: Plastic or metal clips that snap onto the adjustable legs to hold the kickboard neatly in place.

Step 1: Setting Out and Levelling Base Units

Always start your layout from the highest point of the floor. Mark a level datum line around the perimeter of the room using a long spirit level or laser level.

Fit the adjustable legs to the underside of the first base unit, spacing them approximately 50 mm to 70 mm in from the outer edges.
Position the corner or end cabinet first. Adjust the foot of each leg by hand or with a spanner until the top of the carcass aligns precisely with your datum line in both directions.
Position the adjacent unit and adjust its legs to match the height and depth of the first cabinet.

Step 2: Securing Carcasses Together

Once adjacent base units are level, clamp them together using G-clamps or quick-release speed clamps. Insert carcass connecting bolts through the system holes inside the carcass (usually behind the hinge mounting plate locations for a cleaner look). Tightening these bolts draws the side panels tightly together, eliminating gaps and preventing independent movement when heavy worktops are installed.

After joining the entire run, secure the carcasses back to the wall through the rear mounting brackets or top service rail to prevent any forward tipping.

Step 3: Mounting Wall Units with Hanging Brackets

When you install kitchen cabinet units overhead, safety is paramount. Modern wall units rely on internal hanging brackets that hook onto a continuous metal suspension rail or individual wall plates.

Fix the suspension rail: Screw a heavy-duty steel rail into masonry or directly into the centre of timber wall studs. Ensure it is perfectly horizontal.
Hang the cabinet: Lift the unit onto the rail so the internal bracket hooks engage securely.
Adjust for level and depth: Use a screwdriver to turn the adjustment screws on the internal brackets. One screw controls the vertical height, while the second pulls the unit tighter to the wall.
Join wall units: Clamp adjacent wall units together and secure them using carcass joining bolts, mirroring the technique used for base units.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why use cabinet legs instead of a timber base frame?

Adjustable plastic or aluminium cabinet legs allow precise micro-adjustments on uneven floors without the need for bespoke timber scribing. They also keep wooden carcasses off the subfloor, protecting them from spills and damp.

How many joining bolts should I use per carcass?

For standard 720 mm high base units, two to four carcass connecting bolts per joint are recommended—typically placed near the front top and bottom edges to maintain a tight front face.