Kitchen Planning & Installation: Ideas, Dimensions and Hardware

Kitchen planning is based on standard grid dimensions, with base units typically 60 cm deep and the 32 mm system ensuring consistent drilling for hardware.

Fitting or assembling a kitchen is both a logistical and a practical challenge. Whether building a straight run or an L-shaped layout, the units must not only look right in the room, but also provide an ergonomic and functional workspace. From the precise alignment of the carcasses to the installation of drawer runner systems, accuracy during assembly determines the lifespan of the furniture.

Kitchen Planning: Layout and Challenges

A kitchen functions much like an organised workshop: if travel distances are too long or tools are stored in the wrong place, the entire workflow grinds to a halt. The foundation of every kitchen layout is the working triangle formed by the sink, hob, and fridge. These three zones should sit as close together as possible without obstructing one another.

When planning the room layout, furniture placement depends on existing connections for water and high-voltage electricity. A compact single-wall run suits straight walls in enclosed rooms, whilst open-plan concepts often incorporate an island. Anyone designing a modern open-plan living room will coordinate the finish of the kitchen unit fronts with the surrounding living room furniture. A compact kitchenette, on the other hand, demands strict storage prioritisation, as there are often only two to three base cabinets available.

Ideas and Clever Solutions for Storage Space

The usable space inside a kitchen cupboard depends heavily on the selected fittings. Simple fixed shelves are straightforward to source, but they make accessing items at the back of the cupboard difficult.

For efficient use of storage space, drawers and pull-outs are the superior choice. A full-extension runner allows the drawer to extend 100% out of the carcass. This ensures that pots, pans, and dry goods stored right at the back remain easily accessible. A single-extension runner, in comparison, pulls out only to around 75%. To organise the drawer interior effectively, use kitchen drawer organisers. These inserts prevent cutlery, cooking utensils, and spice jars from sliding around during opening and closing.

Another central consideration is waste management. A freestanding bin consumes valuable floor space and frequently obstructs walkways. Integrating the bin into the sink base unit is the most practical solution. A kitchen waste separation bin enables direct sorting of general waste, food scraps, and recycling. For standard base cabinets with a width of 60 cm, a pull-out 60cm kitchen waste bin is ideal, mounting to the carcass base via its own ball-bearing runners or roller runners.

Dimensions, Materials and Ergonomics

Cooking ergonomics are determined primarily by the worktop height. Standard worktop height ranges between 90 cm and 95 cm. To tailor this height precisely to your stature and compensate for uneven floors, adjustable furniture legs made of plastic or metal are installed underneath the base units. These plinth feet feature a screw thread that enables millimetre-precise cabinet levelling.

Standard Dimensions in Kitchen Construction

• Base units: Depth is usually 60 cm (including door front and back panel), with widths in grid increments of 30 cm, 45 cm, 60 cm, 80 cm, or 90 cm.
• Wall units: Depth is typically 30 cm to 35 cm to ensure adequate headroom above the work surface.
• Worktop: Depth of 60 cm, with a front overhang of approx. 2 cm to 3 cm to protect cabinet fronts from dripping liquids.

Cabinet Materials

Kitchen cabinet carcasses are generally made from melamine-faced chipboard with a thickness of 16 mm or 18 mm. This material is dimensionally stable and easy to drill. For doors and drawer fronts, MDF (medium-density fibreboard) is frequently used, as it is easier to rout and paint. Alternatively, fronts made from solid timber or finished with a foil laminate (such as wood-effect finishes) are fitted.

Essential Components and Hardware for Assembly

When assembling a kitchen, various fittings must be installed and adjusted. Hinged door fronts attach to the carcass using a concealed cup hinge. The standard drilling diameter in the door is 35 mm. For a standard door that sits flush over the front edges of the carcass, a full overlay hinge is used. The typical opening angle is 95° or 110°.

To open cupboards and drawers, kitchen furniture handles are required. The hole centres for handles follow standard spacings (such as 96 mm, 128 mm, or 160 mm). When mounting handles and securing carcasses together, wood screws and furniture fixings are used. To join individual cabinets (carcass connectors), use screws with a diameter of 4 mm or 5 mm and a PZ or TX drive to prevent stripping the screw head.

Sufficient illumination of the work surface is essential. Because ceiling lights often cast shadows when standing at the worktop, furniture lighting is mounted beneath the wall units. LED strips or slimline under-cabinet lights deliver glare-free illumination directly onto the preparation area.

Tools Required for Kitchen Installation

For the professional assembly of a kitchen run or fitted kitchen, the following tools should be ready to hand:

1. Cordless screwdriver with matching bits (PH, PZ, TX)
2. Spirit level (at least 80 cm long) for aligning carcasses
3. Jigsaw for worktop cut-outs (sink, hob)
4. G-clamps or screw clamps to hold cabinets securely while joining
5. Tape measure and pencil

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) About Kitchen Installation

How do I correctly align kitchen base units? Always begin at the highest point of the floor in the room. Position the first cabinet, place the spirit level on the carcass, and adjust the furniture legs by turning them until the unit is level in both directions. All subsequent units are aligned to this initial carcass and then screwed together.

What interior fittings work best for deep kitchen drawers? For pots and pans, anti-slip matting is often sufficient. For cutlery, utensils, and small items, dedicated organiser trays or cutlery inserts tailored to the internal drawer depth (often 500 mm depth) should be used.

What is the difference between soft-close and push-to-open? Soft-close is a damping mechanism that gently and silently brakes the drawer or door over the final few centimetres of closure. Push-to-open is a mechanical release system for handleless fronts: pressing the front causes the door or drawer to pop open slightly. Both systems require different functional hardware.

What should the clearance be between base and wall units? The recommended distance, known as the splashback height, typically sits between 50 cm and 60 cm. This provides ample clearance for kettles or food processors whilst ensuring comfortable access to the lower shelves of the wall cabinet.

Related Interior Layout Considerations

The core principles of kitchen planning apply equally to other rooms. Furnishing a narrow living room also benefits from precisely dimensioned carcasses and shallower units. Much like in a compact kitchenette, vertical space utilisation is key. Wall-mounted units using concealed cabinet suspension brackets keep the floor clear and make rooms feel noticeably larger.