Assembling MIKEL Furniture: Step-by-Step Assembly Guide

August 5, 2026

The assembly of the MIKEL chest of drawers is carried out step by step via constructing the carcase, inserting the drawers, and adjusting the doors using concealed cup hinges.

The MIKEL series comprises functional chests of drawers and sideboards that are versatile due to their layout with three drawers and a choice of one or two doors. With a uniform height of 75 cm and a depth of 35 cm, they fit into narrow hallways as well as living rooms or bedrooms. Depending on the model variant, the width is 80 cm (one door) or 120 cm (two doors). The furniture is made of melamine-coated chipboard, produced in various finishes such as Matt White, Anthracite Grey, or Wotan Oak.

This guide leads DIY enthusiasts systematically through the assembly. Working in a structured manner, assembly takes around 1.5 to 2 hours.

Preparation and Required Tools

Assembling furniture is like mise en place in a professional kitchen: sorting and checking all components and fittings beforehand saves considerable time during the actual build and avoids mistakes. Check the package contents against the included parts list.

Have the following tools ready:

Cross-head screwdriver (sizes PZ 2 and PH 2)
Flat-blade screwdriver (for adjusting the hinges)
Rubber mallet (for wooden dowels)
Spirit level
Folding rule or tape measure
Cordless screwdriver (only use on a low torque setting to prevent stripping the threads in the chipboard)

Sort all wood screws and furniture screws in advance by length and diameter. Do not mix up the screws for the runners with those for the hinges.

Step-by-Step Assembly Instructions

Step 1: Assembling the Carcase

The base frame of the chest of drawers consists of the two side panels, the base panel, the top panel, and (in the 120 cm wide version) a vertical centre partition.

Insert the wooden dowels into the pre-drilled holes in the side panels. A light tap with the rubber mallet helps if they are tight.
Screw the connecting bolts of the cam lock fasteners into the corresponding threads on the side panels and the top panel.
Join the base assembly and the side panels. Insert the round cam housings into the large drill holes of the cross members and tighten them clockwise with a cross-head screwdriver. This draws the carcase together without gaps. Should you later require replacement parts for this type of joint, you will find suitable furniture connectors in our range.
Lay the carcase face down on a soft surface (e.g. the opened shipping box).
Position the back panel (usually made of thin MDF). Check the diagonals of the carcase with a tape measure. If both measurements are identical, the cabinet is completely square. Now nail or screw the back panel firmly around its perimeter.

Step 2: Fitting Drawer Runners and Assembling Drawers

The MIKEL chest of drawers features three drawers arranged one above the other. These usually run on a ball bearing runner or roller runner.

Fix the carcase runners to the pre-marked positions on the inside walls. Make sure the running direction is correct (the open end of the runner faces forwards).
Assemble the drawer boxes (sides, back panel, front). Cam lock fasteners are also commonly used here.
Slide the drawer base into the groove of the side panels and screw it to the back panel.
Fit the narrow drawer runners along the lower outer edges of the drawers.
Insert the drawers into the carcase. With a ball bearing runner, you must guide the runners precisely into each other until they click audibly into place.

Step 3: Attaching and Adjusting Doors

The doors of the chest of drawers are mounted using concealed hinges, commonly known as cup hinges. Because the doors in the MIKEL series sit over the outer edge of the side panels, a full overlay is used here. For the 120 cm version with a centre partition, a half overlay (twin overlay) is used on that partition.

Press the hinge cup (standard diameter 35 mm) into the large recess on the inside of the door and screw it down.
Screw the cruciform mounting plates onto the pre-drilled locations on the inside of the carcase.
Guide the hinge arm of the door onto the mounting plate and tighten the fixing screw.
Close the door and check the gap alignment.
You can adjust the door using the three screws on the hinge arm:

Depth adjustment: Adjust the gap between the door and the carcase.
Height adjustment: Shift the door up or down (via the slotted holes in the mounting plate).
Side adjustment: Tilt the door left or right to achieve parallel gaps.

If the doors slam too loudly against the carcase when closing, you can retrofit door dampers to cushion the impact softly.

Step 4: Fitting Feet and Handles

Carefully lay the chest of drawers on its back to fit the glides or feet. Standard feet protect the floor from scratches and keep moisture away from the timber. Those wishing to customise the look of the chest often opt for alternative furniture feet. For the Anthracite Grey / Wotan Oak variant, for example, black furniture feet match the dark carcase very well.

Carefully drill through the handle holes on the front panels (if they are only pre-marked from the rear). Place a piece of scrap wood beneath the front side to prevent the decorative coating from splintering when drilling through. Then screw the furniture handle firmly from the back through the front.

Step 5: Anti-Tip Device and Wall Mounting

A chest of drawers with a height of 75 cm, a depth of 35 cm, and pull-out drawers significantly shifts its centre of gravity once multiple drawers are opened simultaneously. Wall fixing is therefore an essential step for safety.

Place the chest of drawers in its final position and level it using a spirit level. Compensate for any floor unevenness if necessary.
Mark the position for the anti-tip bracket (usually a small metal angle bracket) on the wall.
Drill the hole into the wall and insert a suitable wall plug (match the plug to your wall type: concrete, brick, or plasterboard).
Screw the bracket securely to the wall and then to the top panel or rear of the chest of drawers.

Common Pitfalls During Assembly

The drawers jam or scrape: Check whether the carcase is completely square. If the back panel is nailed on crookedly, the entire piece of furniture will twist. Furthermore, check whether the screws on the runners are driven completely flush. If a screw head protrudes, it will obstruct the runner.
Uneven door gaps: This is almost always due to the adjustment of the cup hinges. Take time for fine adjustments using the side and depth adjustment screws on the hinge arm.
Gaps between carcase panels: If the side panels and base panels cannot be pulled tightly together, the connecting bolt of the cam lock fastener is either seated too deeply or not deeply enough in the wood. Readjust the bolt with a half turn.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Can I assemble the MIKEL chest of drawers in a reversed layout? For the 120 cm wide version (three drawers in the middle, one door on the left and one on the right), the symmetry is built-in. For the 80 cm wide version (drawers on one side, door on the other), it depends on the manufacturer's pre-drilled holes. Check the side panels and centre partition for continuous hole lines before starting assembly.

What is the load capacity of the chest's drawers? As standard, the supplied roller or ball bearing runners are rated for an everyday load of around 10 to 15 kg per drawer. This is entirely sufficient for clothing, documents, or lightweight household items.

Can the drawers be pulled out completely? That depends on the type of runner installed. A part extension runner can be pulled out of the carcase to about 75%. If a full extension runner is fitted from the factory, you can pull the drawer out 100%, making access to the rear area significantly easier.

What is the best way to clean the matt surfaces? Melamine-coated chipboard is easy to maintain. Use a slightly damp, soft cotton cloth. Avoid abrasive sponges or aggressive solvent-based cleaners, as these can permanently damage the decorative layer (such as Matt White or Wotan Oak).