Replacing a Drawer Front: Fitting an Alternative to IKEA Faktum with an Exact Hole Pattern
Replacing a drawer front requires an exact transfer of the existing hole pattern to guarantee compatibility with the current runner system without the need for drilling into the drawer side again.
Replacing a damaged or worn drawer front is a standard procedure in furniture assembly. Particularly with older kitchen ranges that are no longer manufactured – such as the IKEA Faktum system sold until 2014 – fitters and skilled DIYers face the challenge of installing alternative fronts with a precise fit. The difficulty does not lie in the woodwork itself, but in accurately transferring the fixing points. The front installation defines the face of the furniture – this is where the precision of all preparation work shows in the final gap alignment.
This guide is aimed at tradespeople who need to remove a drawer front, transfer an existing hole pattern to a replacement front, and adjust the panel to achieve correct reveal dimensions. The time required per drawer is approximately 15 to 25 minutes.
Required Tools and Materials
Dismantling and refitting the drawer fronts requires no specialist joinery tools, but using the correct screwdriver bit is essential to avoid damaging the hardware.
- Cordless drill/driver or manual screwdriver
- Bits: PZ (Pozidriv) size 2. (Note: Never use PH for European furniture fittings, as this strips the screw head).
- Folding rule or precision tape measure in mm
- Marking gauge or try square
- Bradawl or awl
- Wood drill bits (Ø 5 mm for handle holes, Ø 2 mm or 3 mm for pre-drilling wood screws)
- Replacement front (e.g. made from MDF or melamine-faced chipboard)
- If required, new chipboard screws (typically Ø 3.5 mm or 4 mm, length usually 15 mm to 17 mm for a standard front thickness of 16 mm to 19 mm)
- Cover caps 14mm diameter to conceal old, unused drill holes inside the carcass.
Step-by-Step Guide: Replacing a Drawer Front
The following steps describe the process for typical double-walled steel drawer sides (such as those used in Faktum in the form of the Blum Tandembox), but can also be applied to timber drawers with undermount runners or ball-bearing runners.
1. Removing the Old Drawer Front
Before working on the new panel, the old front must be dismantled. On modern drawer systems, the front is not rigidly screwed in place, but clipped in via a mounting bracket. Pull the drawer out fully on its full-extension runners. Small plastic cover caps are usually located on the outer sides of the metal drawer sides. Remove these to reveal the mechanism beneath. For the Faktum system, release the front by using a PZ2 screwdriver to turn the rear of the two visible screws (the release screw) a quarter turn anti-clockwise. The front pops out of its catch and can be lifted off upwards. On basic wooden drawers with roller runners, the fronts are often fixed from the inside through the drawer sub-front with standard screws. Unscrew these completely.
2. Measuring the Hole Pattern Accurately
The hole pattern defines the X and Y coordinates of the drill holes on the rear of the front. Because the Faktum system is based on the industrial System 32 standard, hole spacings are frequently multiples of 32 mm. Place the old front flat on the workbench with the rear side facing upwards. Now measure the distance from the bottom edge of the front to the centre of the first drill hole (Y-axis). Next, measure the distance from the outer edge (left and right) to the centre of the hole (X-axis). Note down the values to the nearest millimetre, for example: Bottom hole: Y = 35 mm, X = 28 mm. Repeat this for all fixing points.
3. Removing Front Fixing Brackets
The metal mounting brackets (front fixings) are still screwed to the removed front. Unscrew the wood screws and take off the fittings. Check the hardware for distortion or cracks in the metal. If they are undamaged, reuse them for the new front.
4. Transferring Measurements to the New Drawer Front
Place the new alternative to IKEA Faktum with the rear side facing upwards onto a soft surface to prevent scratching the decor finish. Use the try square and marking gauge to mark out the coordinates noted in Step 2 with precision. Mark the intersection points with the bradawl. This prevents the drill bit from slipping on the smooth melamine surface later.
5. Pre-Drilling and Installing the Brackets
To prevent the chipboard from splitting, the holes must be pre-drilled. Use a 2 mm or 3 mm wood drill bit. Drill to a maximum depth of 12 mm. Tip: Wrap a piece of masking tape around the drill bit at 12 mm to serve as a depth stop. Place the front fixing brackets over the pre-drilled holes and tighten them with the appropriate screws (PZ drive). Tighten the screws hand-tight; when using a cordless driver, select a low torque setting (level 3 to 5) to avoid stripping the thread in the wood.
6. Drilling Handle Holes
If the new panel does not yet have holes for the furniture handle, these must be drilled now. Measure the hole centre distance of the handle (e.g. 128 mm or 160 mm). Mark the position on the front. Drill through from the front (face side) to the back using a 5 mm wood drill bit. Clamp a piece of scrap wood firmly against the rear side during drilling to stop the coating from tear-out when the drill bit exits.
7. Clipping in the New Front and Adjusting
Offer the new front up to the metal sides of the drawer left inside the carcass. Press the fitted brackets into the openings on the drawer sides until they engage on both sides with an audible click. Next comes the fine adjustment. Using the adjustment screws on the drawer side (beneath the cover cap), you can adjust the front vertically (usually ± 2 mm) and laterally (usually ± 1.5 mm). The aim is an even gap reveal of roughly 3 mm to 4 mm all round relative to adjacent fronts.
Special Case: Charging Drawers and Electrification
In modern kitchens or when converting old Faktum chests into office furniture, there is often a requirement to add electrical access to a drawer – for example, to charge tablets or smartphones out of sight. For this, a cable pass-through must be integrated into the back panel of the drawer or the cabinet carcass.
Specialised cable pass-throughs are ideal for cleanly routing charging cables through the back panel of the unit. Depending on the installation location and visual requirements, various solutions are available. If an old kitchen drawer is integrated into a workstation, a desk cable grommet is ideal for routing mains plugs through the worktop into the top drawer.
To pass cables through the drawer back panel, which is usually 16 mm thick, a compact round cable grommet is recommended. For this, a hole is drilled into the back panel using a hole saw (usually 60 mm) and the insert is pressed into place. To match the interior with the styling of the new fronts, you can select colour-matched inserts, such as an unobtrusive white cable grommet for light carcasses or a chrome cable grommet to match the metal runner rails. Ensure that the cable has sufficient slack behind the drawer (a cable loop) so that the full-extension runner is not obstructed during opening and closing and the cable is not pulled tight or damaged.
Avoiding Common Installation Mistakes
Even though the procedure is straightforward, minor oversights often result in misaligned fronts or stripped screw threads. Pay close attention to these technical details:
- Incorrect screwdriver bit: The most frequent mistake when assembling furniture fittings is mixing up cross-head bits. Screws from European hardware manufacturers almost exclusively use the Pozidriv profile (PZ). Using a Phillips bit (PH) causes slipping and irreparably destroys the screw head.
- No depth stop when drilling: Drilling too deep when pre-drilling fixing holes will pierce straight through the front face of the panel.
- Ignoring dimensional tolerances: An offset of just 2 mm when marking the hole pattern puts the front fixing under tension. This can cause the ball-bearing runner mechanism to run stiffly or prevent the soft-close damper from engaging properly.
- Stripped screw holes: If a screw is overtightened and spins freely, it loses all grip in the chipboard. This can be resolved with a threaded insert (a metal insert nut) or by gluing a matching wooden dowel into the hole with PVA wood glue.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I use any wooden board as a drawer front? Technically yes, provided the material has sufficient thickness for the fixing screws. Standard thicknesses range between 16 mm and 19 mm. However, the material (e.g. MDF or solid timber) affects the overall weight. Ensure that the combined weight of the drawer, front, and contents does not exceed the load capacity of the runners (often 30 kg or 50 kg).
How do I adjust the tilt of the drawer front? On double-walled drawer side systems (such as Tandembox), the tilt adjustment is usually located on the gallery rail (if fitted) or concealed behind the cover cap on the drawer side. Turning the adjustment sleeve or screw draws the top edge of the front closer to the carcass or pushes it further away.
What should I do if the new drill holes overlap exactly with old, stripped holes? If you are reconditioning an existing front and the holes are damaged, drill out the defective hole cleanly using an 8 mm drill bit. Glue an 8 mm wooden dowel in place and allow the glue to cure. Cut the dowel flush with the surface. You now have solid wood again, allowing you to pre-drill the hole pattern accurately.
Is soft-close the same as push-to-open? No. Soft-close is a damping mechanism that gently and quietly pulls the drawer shut over the final few centimetres. Push-to-open (often called tip-on) is a mechanical ejector for handleless fronts. If you are replacing the drawer front and prefer a handle-free design, check whether your runner system can be retrofitted with a push-to-open unit.