Replacing Push-to-Open Fittings: Installing a Functional Replacement for Hettich Tip-On Systems Using the Exact Drilling Pattern

June 16, 2026

A push-to-open system requires a defined trigger release travel of 1.5 mm to 3 mm and must generally not be combined with a traditional soft-close mechanism on handleless fronts, as the damping blocks the opening spring.

Replacing a defective push-to-open mechanism (such as older Hettich Tip-On systems) on handleless furniture fronts is a standard procedure in cabinet fitting. When the trigger sticks, the magnet loses its holding force, or the spring snaps, the component must be replaced. As long as the existing hole pattern in the carcass remains intact, a functional replacement can be integrated exactly into the existing system drillings.

This guide is aimed at fitters and experienced tradespeople, detailing how to replace touch latches on hinged doors and replace matching runner systems on drawers. The replacement process is like a precise pit stop: with the right tape measure and the suitable replacement fitting, mechanical functionality is restored in just a few minutes.

Time Required and Difficulty Level

Time required: approx. 10 to 15 minutes per front or drawer.
Difficulty level: Medium (requires precise measurement and gap adjustment).

Required Tools and Materials

The following tools are essential for professional removal and reinstallation:

Pozi screwdriver (PZ2 drive for Euro screws and chipboard screws)
Vernier calliper (for determining drilling distances and gap dimensions in mm)
Bradawl (for marking slightly offset screw holes)
Replacement touch latch with adapter plate or suitable runner systems
Optional: Threaded insert (M4 or M5) for stripped drill holes in the carcass

System Analysis: Understanding the Hole Pattern

Before removing the old fitting, the drilling pattern must be identified. Most European furniture hardware is based on System 32. This means:

The distance from the front edge of the carcass to the first drilling is exactly 37 mm.
The distance between two vertical fixing holes is 32 mm (or a multiple thereof, e.g. 64 mm).
The drill hole diameter for Euro screws is 5 mm, while standard wood screws are usually pre-drilled at 3 mm.

If the replacement part is also designed for this grid, the replacement is carried out without any new drilling.

Step-by-Step Guide: Replacing Push-to-Open Latches on Cabinet Doors

On hinged doors, the system consists of two components: the hinges (which must strictly be unsprung) and the actual push latch mounted in the cabinet carcass.

Step 1: Removing the Old System

Release the defective touch latch from its base plate. On many systems, the cylindrical pin can be pulled or twisted off by pressing the rear release catch. Next, unscrew the adapter plate from the carcass using the PZ2 screwdriver.

Step 2: Checking the Drill Holes

Use the vernier calliper to measure the distance from the drill holes to the front edge. If the measurement is 37 mm, you can screw the new mounting plates on directly. If the holes in the wood (usually chipboard or MDF) have widened due to heavy use, use thicker Euro screws (5 mm) or insert a threaded nut to restore tensile strength.

Step 3: Fitting the New Adapter Plate

Position the new base plate exactly over the existing holes. Pay attention to the orientation: the arrow or marking on the plate must point towards the cabinet front. Secure the plate hand-tight.

Step 4: Clipping in the Touch Latch

Slide or clip the new cylinder onto the mounted plate until it audibly clicks into place. On systems with a magnetic head, the metal counter plate (strike plate) must now also be screwed or adhered to the inside of the cabinet door.

Step 5: Adjusting the Release Gap

This is the most critical technical step. A push-to-open mechanism requires idle travel to trigger. Rotate the head of the latch (threaded mechanism) until a release gap of 1.5 mm to 3.0 mm is created between the closed door and the carcass edge. If the gap is too small, the door cannot be pushed in far enough to activate the mechanism.

Note regarding hinges: If the door does not pop open far enough after releasing, check the concealed cabinet hinges. Handleless fronts require specialised unsprung hinges or hinges with reverse springs. Standard self-closing hinges work against the push latch. An opening angle of 110° is standard here, which is why 110-degree concealed cabinet hinges are frequently used.

Step-by-Step Guide: Replacing Push-to-Open on Drawers

With drawers, the release mechanism is not mounted separately in the cabinet carcass, but is integrated directly into the runner. If a drawer stops responding, the runner usually needs to be replaced.

Step 1: Removing the Drawer

Pull the drawer out completely. With an undermount runner, reach under the drawer box and operate the release clips (usually orange or green levers) to separate the drawer from the runner.

Step 2: Removing the Cabinet Runner

Unscrew the runners from the inside of the carcass. Make a note of the exact screw positions in the hole grid to mount the new runner at the identical height and depth.

Step 3: Installing the New Runners

Choose accurately sized push-to-open drawer runners in the identical nominal length (e.g. 450 mm or 500 mm). Screw the new cabinet runner into the existing 32 mm grid. Ensure that the frontmost screw sits precisely at the 37 mm position, otherwise the depth calculation of the entire drawer will fail.

Step 4: Setting the Front Gap at the Locking Device

Place the drawer onto the runners and push it in until it clicks into the locking devices. Here, too, a gap dimension of approx. 2 mm to 3 mm must be maintained. Fine adjustment (depth adjustment) is carried out directly on the small thumbwheels on the front locking devices beneath the drawer base.

Special Considerations: Heavy Fronts and Flap Stays

Specific requirements apply to upward-opening fronts in wall cabinets. Here, a simple mechanical touch latch is often not sufficient to lift the self-weight of the flap.

In such instances, the push-to-open pin is only used to push the front open by a small gap, allowing fingers to reach behind the edge. The actual lifting work is performed by flap stays and lift fittings, which are frequently supported by a gas strut. The force of these gas struts is measured in Newtons (N). When replacing such a fitting, the N rating of the replacement component must match the weight of the MDF or solid wood front exactly (e.g. 250 N or 380 N), otherwise the flap will either drop down or swing upwards uncontrollably.

Common Installation Mistakes

Combining with the Wrong Hinges: A common DIY error is attempting to combine a push-to-open pin with a hinge that features integrated damping. These systems block each other. Damped hinges (see soft-close concealed cabinet hinges) actively pull the door shut over the final centimetres, while the push pin tries to force it open.
Ignoring the Gap Dimension: If the touch latch is screwed flush with the carcass edge, the front rests directly against the cabinet. The necessary travel of at least 1.5 mm to trigger the spring is missing. The door will jam.
Selecting the Wrong Extension Type: For drawers, a distinction must be made between single extension and full extension. A full-extension runner pulls out 100% from the carcass, facilitating access to the rear area. When replacing runners, check whether full-extension drawer runners will physically fit inside the carcass.
Incorrect Door Overlay: Pay attention to the door overlay type. A full overlay (door fully covers the carcass edge) requires a different hinge crank than an inset door.

FAQ: Frequently Asked Questions

Can I combine push-to-open and soft-close on drawers? Fundamentally, these are opposing mechanisms. However, there are premium hybrid systems on the market that combine both functions in one runner. These require precise tensioning of the mechanics. By default, these systems are kept strictly separate: either handleless opening or damped self-closing (see soft-close drawer runners).

How do I repair stripped drill holes in the cabinet carcass? If the 5 mm drill holes in the chipboard carcass are frayed, do not fill them with wood glue. Drill the hole out cleanly to 8 mm and insert a plastic dowel or screw in a threaded insert (M4/M5). The adapter plate can then be securely refitted using metric machine screws.

Must I always use the same brand for a replacement? No. The hardware industry is heavily standardised. As long as the replacement part is designed for the 32 mm hole grid and the nominal length (for drawer runners) as well as the load capacity (in kg) match, components from different manufacturers can be installed.

Which hinge do I need for handleless corner cabinets? For wide-angle applications where internal drawers must be pulled out without catching on the open door, the use of 155-degree concealed cabinet hinges is recommended — strictly in the unsprung version (without closing spring).

Relevant Categories for Your Project

If you are planning a complete reconfiguration or upgrade of your cabinet interiors alongside replacing push latches, you will find the matching hardware components in the following sections: