Retrofitting Concealed Hinges for Mepla Kitchen Cabinets

A concealed hinge used as a replacement part for older kitchen cabinets generally requires a 35 mm cup hole and a System 32 hole pattern to be fully compatible.

When hinges wear out on an older fitted kitchen, doors begin to sag or closing springs snap, a replacement is due. Often, the original factory fittings come from manufacturers that are no longer active in the same form or whose specific series have been discontinued. A frequent scenario is searching for a replacement for Mepla hinges. Because modern European furniture fittings are highly standardised, current hinges can easily be used as an alternative to Mepla. The prerequisite is an exact understanding of the existing cut-outs and drilling patterns in the carcase and the cabinet door.

What to Look for Regarding Compatibility

When replacing kitchen fittings, three essential geometric parameters must align. If these are identical, the new hinge will fit the existing Mepla drillings.

The Cup Hole in the Door

The decisive measurement is the diameter of the circular recess in the cabinet door. The standard cup hole measures 35 mm. Older or very small cabinets (such as in bathrooms) occasionally use a 26 mm measurement, but this is an absolute exception in kitchens. The standard drilling depth is 11.5 mm to 12.5 mm.

The Cup Fixing Hole Pattern

Alongside the large 35 mm hole, the hinge cup is secured to the door with two screws. The distance between these two screws is known as the drilling pattern. Common measurements are 45 mm, 48 mm, or 52 mm. Older Mepla fittings often feature a specific measurement here. If the drilling pattern of the new hinge does not match the old holes, this is not an obstacle. The structural support is provided by the precise fit of the 35 mm cup within the wood. The small screw holes can simply be newly pre-drilled using a 2 mm drill bit.

System 32 in the Carcase

Attachment to the cabinet carcase is handled by the cruciform mounting plate. In the European furniture industry, System 32 is the established standard. This means:

• The distance between the drill holes is exactly 32 mm.
• The distance from the front drill hole to the front edge of the cabinet is 37 mm.

If the old kitchen cabinet features this line drilling, the new mounting plate can be screwed directly into the same holes. Important: The old mounting plate must be removed. The clip-on mechanism between the plate and the hinge arm is manufacturer-specific. A new hinge cannot be clipped onto an old Mepla plate.

Choosing the Correct Door Crank Type

To ensure the door closes correctly after the replacement, the geometry of the hinge arm must be identical. There are three types to distinguish:

1. Full overlay (also known as standard overlay): The closed door covers the side panel of the cabinet carcase almost completely. From the front, only a narrow gap is visible. The hinge arm is straight.
2. Half overlay (twin doors): Two doors share a central partition wall. Each door covers the edge only halfway. The hinge arm features a visible crank (bend).
3. Inset (internal): The door sits flush inside the cabinet carcase. The front edges of the side panels remain fully visible. The hinge arm is heavily cranked.

Suitable furnica Parts as Replacements

For kitchen refurbishment, modern hinges with integrated dampening are ideal. A soft-close mechanism gently brakes the door over the final centimetres and pulls it shut silently. The hinge works like the knee joint of the cabinet door – carrying the full weight while absorbing momentum.

Alongside the classic opening angle of 110°, corner cabinets or units with internal drawers often require wide-angle hinges of 155° or 165°. These swing the door completely clear of the internal opening width of the carcase. All of these variants can be used compatibly with Mepla systems, provided the 35 mm cup hole is present.

Upgrading the Entire Kitchen Cabinet

When fittings are being replaced anyway, it is often a great opportunity to enhance the interior functionality of the cabinet. Old, fixed shelves make poor use of depth. By retrofitting modern kitchen cabinet pull-outs, the cabinet interior becomes ergonomically accessible.

For standard base cabinet dimensions, a kitchen cabinet pull-out 60 cm or a kitchen cabinet pull-out 50 cm is suitable. These full-extension runners allow access to pots and provisions right into the furthest corner. Under the sink, waste management is a key focus. Here, a kitchen waste sorting bin or a compact pull-out kitchen bin 40cm is a practical addition alongside the fitting replacement.

Wall cabinets can also be optimised. Above the sink, a plate drying rack for wall cabinets can be installed, while at worktop height, new kitchen furniture handles provide the old front with a refreshed look.

Installation and Retrofitting: Step-by-Step

Replacing the hinges requires only basic hand tools: a cordless drill/driver, a screwdriver with a Pozidriv drive (PZ2), and possibly a folding rule.

1. Removal: Open the old door and release the hinge from the mounting plate (often via a release lever at the rear or by loosening a locking screw). Next, remove the cup screws from the door and take out the old hinge.
2. Replace mounting plates: Unscrew the old plates from the carcase. Fasten the new cruciform mounting plates into the same 32 mm system holes.
3. Insert new cup: Press the new hinge into the 35 mm cup hole on the door. Ensure it sits at an exact 90-degree angle to the door edge.
4. Secure with screws: If the old screw holes match, use them. If not, pre-drill slightly with a 2 mm wood drill bit and drive in the included chipboard screws.
5. Attach door: Bring the door to the carcase and mount the hinge arm onto the mounting plate from the front until it audibly clicks into place.

Aligning the Door Gaps (3D Adjustment)

After hanging, the door is often slightly misaligned. Modern concealed hinges can be adjusted in three dimensions:

• Depth adjustment: The rear screw on the hinge arm alters the distance between the door and the carcase (typically by +2 mm / -2 mm). This regulates the gap between the door and the cabinet edge.
• Lateral adjustment: The front screw on the arm tilts the door left or right. This ensures that the doors are parallel to each other and do not collide in the centre.
• Height adjustment: The cruciform mounting plate features slotted holes or an eccentric cam screw. Loosening these screws allows the entire door to be moved up or down by a few millimetres until it sits flush with neighbouring fronts.

FAQ – Common Replacement Questions

Can I leave the old mounting plate in the cabinet? No. The connection mechanism between the baseplate in the cabinet and the hinge arm differs between manufacturers. A new furnica hinge cannot be clicked onto an old Mepla plate. Both components must be replaced together as a set.

What should I do if the screws on the hinge cup do not align? This is a common scenario, as older fittings sometimes used different hole spacings (e.g. 52 mm instead of 45 mm). Insert the 35 mm cup into the large cut-out, align the hinge at a right angle, and drill new pilot holes for the small fixing screws using a 2 mm drill bit. The old holes are usually completely covered by the flange of the new hinge.

How do I know whether I need full overlay or half overlay? Measure the cabinet side panel where the hinge is mounted. If the closed door fully covers this side panel (the edge of the panel is hidden), you require a full overlay hinge. If two doors share a single central panel (each door covers the edge only halfway, approx. 8 mm), you require a half overlay hinge.

Can I replace a standard hinge with a soft-close hinge? Yes, this can be done without issue. On modern fittings, the dampening unit is built directly into the hinge cup or arm. The installation dimensions (35 mm cup, System 32) remain exactly the same. The door will then close with automated dampening.