Wardrobe Planning — Depth, Height and Internal Layout

A well-planned wardrobe combines ergonomic dimensions with a functional interior layout and sturdy fittings to make maximum use of the available space.

Planning a new wardrobe for the bedroom, hallway, or children's room requires precision. Anyone building or designing furniture needs to define the exact dimensions beforehand, select the appropriate system for doors and pull-outs, and tailor the internal organisation to their daily habits. This guide leads through all stages of planning in a structured way — from determining the correct depth and height to choosing materials and managing the technical details of assembly.

Dimensions as the Foundation: Determining Depth, Height, and Width

The dimensions of the carcass are the most critical factor during planning. A mistake at this stage leads to a lack of space in the room or crushed clothing inside the wardrobe. Measure the room at multiple points, as walls and floors are rarely completely straight.

The Correct Wardrobe Depth

The standard depth for classic wardrobes is 60 cm. This measurement is derived from the width of an average clothes hanger, which requires around 50 cm to 55 cm of clearance together with the hanging garments. With a carcass depth of 60 cm, the doors close easily without catching on the sleeves of jackets or shirts.

However, it is essential to distinguish between the external measurement and the usable internal depth. The back panel is usually inserted into a groove situated roughly 1.5 cm to 2 cm away from the rear edge. Furthermore, sliding door systems consume space at the front because the track construction requires room. In a wardrobe with sliding doors and an external depth of 60 cm, only around 50 cm of internal depth often remains — here, wide winter jackets will rub against sliding doors. When using sliding doors, you should ideally plan for an external depth of 65 cm to 68 cm.

If the room is extremely narrow, the depth can be reduced. In wardrobes with a depth of 40 cm or 35 cm, clothes rails cannot be mounted parallel to the back panel. Pull-out transverse clothes rails are used instead. The clothing then hangs facing the viewer front-on. For folded items, a smaller depth is often sufficient. In narrow rooms, adding a chest of drawers with 40 cm depth can provide extra storage space for socks and underwear without blocking the walkway.

Wardrobe Height and Room Utilisation

The height is limited by the ceiling height of the room. Typical standard measurements range between 200 cm and 236 cm. Make the most of the ceiling height to create storage space for seasonal clothing or rarely used items such as suitcases and bedding.

Important for assembly: a tall wardrobe is usually assembled lying flat on the floor and then tilted upright. The diagonal measurement (tilt dimension) of the side panel must be strictly smaller than the ceiling height; otherwise, the wardrobe will hit the ceiling when being raised. As a rule of thumb: the ceiling should be at least 5 cm to 10 cm higher than the wardrobe. If this is not the case, assembly must be carried out upright, which is significantly more challenging and requires specialised connecting fittings.

Width and Walkway Clearances

The width of the wardrobe depends on the storage requirements of the users and the available wall length. Allow roughly 100 cm to 150 cm of wardrobe width per person for a solid basic setup.

When planning the width, ensure you account for the walkway in front of the wardrobe. With classic hinged doors, an open door typically projects 50 cm to 60 cm into the room. The user also needs around 60 cm of standing space. The clearance between the wardrobe and the nearest piece of furniture (such as a bed) should therefore be at least 100 cm to 120 cm for hinged doors. If this space is not available, sliding doors are the more practical technical solution.

Wardrobe Types and Construction Styles

The type of doors and the carcass construction significantly define both functionality and visual appearance in the room.

Hinged Door Wardrobes

This classic design is fitted with hinges. The major benefit is the complete overview: all doors can be opened at the same time. The inside surfaces of the doors can also accommodate mirrors, tie racks, or shallow storage trays. Installation is carried out using a concealed cup hinge, which is recessed into a drilled hole (usually 35 mm in diameter) in the door and attached to the carcass side with a cross mounting plate.

Sliding Door Wardrobes

Here, the doors glide on rollers along guide tracks. They require no outward clearance, making them ideal for narrow rooms. Custom sliding wardrobe doors allow for precise fitting into alcoves. Aligning the tracks is technically more demanding. The floor must be completely level so that heavy doors do not roll open on their own or drag. A soft-close damping system gently decelerates the door before the end stop and pulls it into its final resting position.

Corner Solutions

A corner wardrobe makes use of dead space in a room. A distinction is made between an L-shaped layout (two wardrobes meeting at a right angle) and a diagonal corner wardrobe (walk-in style). For L-shaped configurations, specialised hinges with an opening angle of 155° or 165° are used to provide easy access into the deep corner.

Internal Organisation: Ergonomics and Storage Systems

The internal layout functions like an organised warehouse: heavy items at the bottom, everyday items at easy-reach height, and seasonal items near the ceiling. A well-thought-out structure reduces search times and keeps clothes crease-free.

Positioning Clothes Rails Correctly

Hanging clothes is the clearest method of storage. The height of the clothes rail depends on the type of clothing:

• Short garments (shirts, blouses, blazers): plan for 100 cm to 110 cm of height.
• Medium-length garments (skirts, short coats): 130 cm to 140 cm.
• Long garments (dresses, winter coats): 160 cm to 170 cm.

If two clothes rails are installed one above the other, the wardrobe should be at least 210 cm high. The upper rail is much easier to reach if a wardrobe lift is installed. This fitting swings the rail downwards and forwards using a pull-down handle.

Shelves and Shelf Spacing

Shelves are used to store folded clothing such as jumpers, t-shirts, and jeans. The ideal clearance between two shelves is 25 cm to 30 cm. If stacks become taller, they tend to topple over, making it difficult to pull out the bottom shirt.

Shelves are usually positioned using the System 32 grid. This is a standardised line of drilling in the carcass sides with a 32 mm hole spacing and a 5 mm drill hole diameter, into which metal or plastic shelf supports are inserted. Pay attention to the material thickness of the shelves. Across a wardrobe width of 100 cm, a 16 mm thick chipboard shelf will quickly sag under the weight of heavy jumpers. A thickness of 19 mm or 22 mm is recommended here, or the addition of a reinforcing aluminium edge profile.

Integrating Drawers and Pull-Outs

Drawers in the lower section of the wardrobe (up to a height of approx. 100 cm) are ergonomically sensible. They prevent you from having to bend down and reach into deep, dark compartments. Socks, underwear, and belts are stored ideally here.

Technically, drawers are mounted using drawer runners. A full-extension runner pulls out 100%, giving full access to the rearmost corner of the drawer. A single-extension runner opens only to around 75%. For modern wardrobes, an undermount runner is recommended. These runners sit hidden beneath the drawer base and typically feature soft-close damping. Additional wardrobe accessories such as pull-out trouser racks, tie holders, or pull-out wire baskets operate on the same principle and optimise the depth of the carcass.

Materials and Finishes

The material influences the stability, weight, and look of the furniture. For DIY construction, engineered wood materials are predominantly used.

• Chipboard: The standard in furniture manufacturing. Wood chips are bonded under pressure with resin. The surface is sealed with a melamine resin coating that is scratch-resistant and easy to clean.
• MDF (Medium-Density Fibreboard): More finely structured than chipboard. It is easier to route and paint, and is frequently used for profiled door fronts.
• Solid wood: Heavy, robust, and helps regulate the indoor climate. A wooden wardrobe made from solid pine or oak requires occasional care with oil, but offers exceptional durability in return.

The choice of finish impacts the room visually. A white wardrobe with smooth fronts reflects light, making small rooms appear larger. Darker decors or wood effects (such as Wotan oak or Sonoma oak) create a warmer feel but have a stronger visual presence in the room.

Planning Room-Specific Solutions

Different rooms present distinct requirements for planning.

The Children's Room

A children's wardrobe needs to grow alongside the child. The internal layout should be flexibly adjustable. Clothes rails are initially mounted lower so that the child can reach their jackets independently. Thanks to a continuous line of drill holes, rails and shelves can later be moved upwards. Opt for robust edging (ABS edging) and soft-close hinges to prevent trapped fingers.

The Bedroom

Maximum storage capacity takes priority here. If space permits, an entire wall can be built out. Planning is often symmetrical, giving both partners an identical half of the wardrobe. Indirect illumination with LED profiles recessed into the carcass top facilitates choosing clothes in the early morning.

The Hallway

In an entrance area, the wardrobe acts as a cloakroom. The depth must be sufficient for thick winter coats (60 cm). In the lower section, dedicated shoe storage is vital. Angled shoe racks made from metal mesh allow moisture to drain and ensure proper ventilation.

Assembly and Technical Hardware: The Build

Assembling a large wardrobe requires a systematic approach, two people, and the right tools. You will need a cordless screwdriver (with bits for PZ, PH, and TX), a rubber mallet, a spirit level, and a tape measure.

1. Preparation: Sort all components and hardware fittings. Check the floor with the spirit level. An uneven floor will cause the carcass to stand out of square, leading to sticking doors.
2. Carcass assembly: The side panels, base, and top panel are usually connected using an eccentric cam connector (such as Minifix). A connecting bolt is screwed into one component, while the cam is inserted into the matching component and locked with a half turn. In addition, wooden dowels provide the necessary shear stability.
3. Back panel: The back panel gives the wardrobe its diagonal rigidity. It is nailed, screwed, or slid into a groove. Before securing the back panel, measure the diagonal dimensions of the carcass. The wardrobe is only perfectly square if both diagonals are identical in length.
4. Erecting and levelling: Once upright, align the wardrobe using the spirit level. For minor floor irregularities, use plastic shims. High-quality furniture features height-adjustable cabinet legs that can be adjusted precisely through a access hole in the base panel using a hex key.
5. Fitting hardware: Mount the cross mounting plates for the hinges on the side panels. The doors are then clicked into place using the clip-on mechanism.
6. Adjusting the doors: A concealed cup hinge can be adjusted in three dimensions. The front screw regulates the door reveal (lateral adjustment). The rear screw adjusts the gap between the door and carcass (depth adjustment). The mounting plate itself can be moved up and down to align the doors vertically.

FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions on Wardrobe Planning)

What is the minimum depth required for a wardrobe? For clothes hanging on a standard clothes rail, an external depth of 60 cm is standard. For sliding door wardrobes, 65 cm is recommended. Where space is restricted, wardrobes with a depth of 40 cm can be used with pull-out transverse rails.

How much clearance does the wardrobe need from the wall? A wardrobe should not be placed hard against the wall. A clearance of 2 cm to 3 cm provides sufficient air circulation, preventing condensation and mould from forming on cold external walls.

At what height should the clothes rail be fitted? For shirts, blouses, and jackets, a height of 100 cm to 110 cm above the shelf below is adequate. For long dresses and winter coats, allow 160 cm to 170 cm of clear vertical space beneath the rail.

Which hinges are needed for wardrobe doors? For standard hinged doors, a concealed cup hinge with a 35 mm cup diameter is used. If the door overlays the carcass side completely, a full overlay hinge is required. If two doors share a central divider, a half overlay hinge is used.

How do I arrange the internal layout optimally? Heavy items and footwear belong at the bottom. Drawers for small items are ergonomic up to a height of approx. 100 cm. Everyday clothing is hung or stacked on shelves (spaced 25 cm to 30 cm apart) at eye level (100 cm to 160 cm). Seasonal items are stored at the very top.

What should I do if the floor is uneven? An uneven floor must be levelled out; otherwise, the doors will not close properly. Use plastic shims underneath the side panels or fit height-adjustable cabinet feet that can be adjusted down to the millimetre via a threaded screw.

How much walkway space must I allow in front of the wardrobe? For a wardrobe with hinged doors, allow a clearance of at least 100 cm to 120 cm to the nearest piece of furniture (around 60 cm for the open door + 60 cm for standing room). For sliding doors, 60 cm to 80 cm of clear standing and walking space is sufficient.

Related Categories & Hardware Guides

Find the right fittings, components, and hardware accessories for your project in our dedicated ranges:

• Wardrobe fittings and connectors
• Sliding door gear and tracks
• Corner cabinet hinges and mechanisms
• White furniture fittings and cover caps
• Wooden furniture joinery hardware
• Child-safe hinges and soft-close dampers
• Wardrobe accessories, rails and pull-outs
• Drawer runners for 40 cm depth units