How to Correctly Adjust & Fit Concealed Cup Hinges
A concealed cup hinge is a hidden furniture hinge consisting of a metal cup recessed into the door and an articulated arm fixed to a mounting plate on the cabinet carcass.
This design forms the mechanical backbone of modern furniture making. It enables not only the smooth opening and closing of cabinet doors, but also precise three-dimensional alignment of reveal gaps. For proper installation, replacement, or adjustment of cabinet doors, understanding the various crank types, opening angles, and adjustment mechanisms is essential.
This guide covers the technical specifications of concealed cup hinges, the criteria for choosing the right fittings for specific furniture projects, and the precise installation and fine-tuning of the hardware.
The Basic Anatomy of a Concealed Cup Hinge
Every concealed cup hinge consists of three main functional components that interlock:
- The cup: This cylindrical part is recessed into a pre-drilled hole on the inside of the furniture door. The standard cup diameter is 35 mm. For lighter or particularly narrow doors, 26 mm diameter versions also exist. The drilling depth is generally 11.5 mm to 12.5 mm.
- The hinge arm: This connects the cup to the mounting plate and houses the kinematics of the hinge. The arm contains the adjustment screws for depth and lateral alignment, as well as any integrated soft-close mechanism.
- The mounting plate: Also referred to as a cruciform mounting plate, this is fixed to the inside of the cabinet carcass. The hinge arm is slid onto this plate or clicked on via a clip mechanism. The mounting plate also provides vertical height adjustment for the door.
Types of Concealed Hinges by Overlay Application
The overlay application defines how the closed cabinet door sits in relation to the cabinet side panel. Selecting the correct hinge depends on the carcass construction. Technically, this difference is achieved by the crank (the bend in the hinge arm).
Full Overlay (Standard Overlay Door)
With a full overlay, the door completely covers the front edge of the cabinet side panel when closed, leaving only a minimal lateral reveal so the door does not rub against an adjacent cabinet when opened. The arm of this hinge is straight with a crank of 0 mm. This variant is the standard for freestanding single units or the outer sides of cabinet runs. Matching hardware: Concealed Cup Hinges Full Overlay
Half Overlay (Twin / Dual Overlay Door)
The half overlay is used when two doors share a single central carcass divider. Because both doors share the front edge of the partition wall (typically 16 mm or 19 mm thick), each door must only cover half of it. The hinge arm features a medium crank of around 9.5 mm. Matching hardware: Concealed Cup Hinges Half Overlay
Inset (Internal Door)
With an inset door, the front sits flush with the front edge of the cabinet side panels—it does not sit on top of the edges, but entirely inside the carcass opening. The front edges of the side panels, base, and top remain visible. This requires a hinge with a high crank of around 17 mm. Matching hardware: Concealed Cup Hinges Inset and Concealed Cup Hinges Inset Doors
Opening Angles and Their Applications
The opening angle determines how far a cabinet door can swing open. Choosing the correct angle depends heavily on cabinet functionality and available room space.
- Standard angle (95° to 110°): This is the most common range for standard kitchen cupboards, wardrobes, and chests of drawers. The door opens slightly past a right angle, allowing comfortable access to internal shelves.
Hardware range: Concealed Cup Hinges / Cabinet Hinges 110 Degrees
- Wide angle (155° to 165°): These hinges, often called wide-angle hinges, allow the door to swing almost completely clear of the opening. They are essential if the cabinet contains internal drawers (such as a full-extension runner or partial-extension runner). With a standard opening angle, the door would protrude into the path of the drawer, blocking or scratching it. Wide-angle hinges swing the door edge entirely outside the clear opening of the carcass.
Hardware ranges: Concealed Cup Hinges / Cabinet Hinges 155 Degrees and Concealed Cup Hinges / Cabinet Hinges 165 Degrees
- Special angles for corner units (30°, 45°, 90°, 135°): In angled kitchen layouts or specialised corner cabinets, carcass panels meet at non-standard angles.
- 30° and 45° hinges are frequently used on angled corner cabinets.
- 90° hinges (blind corner hinges) are used on blind corner cabinets where a door is attached to a fixed blanking panel.
- 135° hinges are commonly found on bifold doors of carousel corner units.
Special angle hardware ranges: Concealed Cup Hinges / Cabinet Hinges 30 Degrees, Concealed Cup Hinges / Cabinet Hinges 45 Degrees, Concealed Cup Hinges / Cabinet Hinges 90 Degrees, and Concealed Cup Hinges / Cabinet Hinges 135 Degrees
Additional Features: Soft-Close and Opening Mechanisms
The internal mechanics of the hinge significantly influence operating comfort. Two distinct systems must be kept strictly separate:
Concealed Hinges with Soft-Close (Damping)
An integrated soft-close mechanism decelerates the cabinet door during the final centimetres of its closing travel and pulls it shut gently and silently. The damper unit (usually a small hydraulic cylinder) sits concealed inside either the cup or the hinge arm. For heavy doors, this feature protects materials from repeated slamming. Hardware range: Concealed Cup Hinges / Cabinet Hinges with Damping (Soft Close)
Concealed Hinges for Push-to-Open
When creating handleless fronts, a push-to-open system (also known as tip-on) is used. Pressing the door triggers a plunger that pushes the door open slightly. Important: You must not use soft-close hinges for this function, as the damping mechanism will counteract the push-release stroke. Unsprung or unsprung-open hinges are required, ideally without self-closing springs, allowing the door to swing open freely once triggered.
Buying Criteria: How to Choose the Right Concealed Hinge
Before fitting or replacing hardware, check the following technical parameters:
- Check the cup diameter: Measure the drilled recess in the door. In 95 % of cases, you will need fittings from the range: Concealed Cup Hinges 35 mm.
- Identify the overlay type: Check how the old door sits on the carcass (full overlay, half overlay, or inset).
- Door weight and door height: The number of hinges required per door depends on leverage principles:
- Up to 900 mm height / 4 to 6 kg: 2 hinges
- Up to 1600 mm height / 10 to 13 kg: 3 hinges
- Up to 2000 mm height / 15 to 17 kg: 4 hinges
- Up to 2400 mm height / 19 to 22 kg: 5 hinges
- Mounting plate fixing style: Do you want a traditional screw-on arm, or do you prefer clip-on mounting? With clip-on technology, the door can be removed from the mounting plate without tools using a release lever on the hinge arm—ideal for cleaning or moving furniture.
Installation: Fitting Concealed Hinges Correctly
Installing concealed hinges from scratch requires precision. An error of just a few millimetres when drilling will prevent the door from being aligned correctly later.
Required Tools
- Power drill or cordless drill driver
- Forstner drill bit (35 mm) with centre point
- Wood drill bit (3 mm or 5 mm, depending on screws)
- Cross-head screwdriver (PZ or TX)
- Combination square and pencil
- Bradawl or centre punch
Step 1: Marking the Cup Hole (C-Dimension)
The C-dimension defines the distance from the edge of the door to the edge of the 35 mm cup hole. Typically, this distance is between 3 mm and 6 mm. Mark a horizontal line at the desired height. Mark the centre point for the drill bit. If the C-dimension is 4 mm, the centre point of the hole must be 21.5 mm from the edge (17.5 mm half-cup radius + 4 mm edge distance).
Step 2: Drilling the Cup Hole
Drill straight into the timber at an exact 90-degree angle using the Forstner bit. The depth is usually 12 mm. On thinner doors (e.g. 16 mm chipboard), take extra care not to drill through the front face. A depth stop on the drill bit is recommended.
Step 3: Inserting and Screwing the Hinge
Place the hinge cup into the hole at an exact 90-degree angle to the door edge. Use a square to align the arm perpendicular to the door edge. Pilot-mark the screw holes with a bradawl and secure the cup using wood screws (typically 3.5 x 16 mm or 4 x 16 mm).
Step 4: Fixing the Mounting Plate to the Carcass
The position of the mounting plate is often based on the System 32 standard. This is an international cabinetmaking standard where rows of holes are drilled vertically into carcass side panels at 32 mm centres. The distance from the front carcass edge to the first row of holes is typically 37 mm. Secure the mounting plate at the correct position and slide or clip the hinge arm onto it.
Adjusting Concealed Hinges: 3D Gap Alignment
Adjusting door reveals is like calibrating clockwork—every turn of a screw on one axis influences the overall alignment. Modern concealed hinges feature 3D adjustment, allowing you to alter door height, depth, and lateral position. Always use a manual hand screwdriver, as cordless power drivers can easily strip fine adjustment threads.
1. Height Adjustment (Y-Axis)
If the door rubs at the top or bottom of the carcass, or does not align with the neighbouring door, the height must be adjusted.
- Loosen the mounting plate fixing screws on the carcass wall slightly (do not remove them completely).
- On slotted mounting plates, you can now slide the door up or down by approx. ± 2 mm.
- Retighten the screws. Some premium mounting plates feature an eccentric screw for continuous height adjustment without loosening base screws.
2. Lateral / Side Adjustment (X-Axis)
If the gap between two doors is uneven, too wide, too narrow, or out of square, use the lateral adjustment. This screw is usually positioned near the front of the hinge arm (closest to the door).
- Turn the screw clockwise: the door moves towards the carcass side panel (widening the reveal gap between two doors).
- Turn the screw anti-clockwise: the door moves away from the carcass side (closing the reveal gap).
- To correct a tilted door, adjust the top and bottom hinges in opposite directions.
3. Depth Adjustment (Z-Axis)
Depth adjustment regulates the gap between the closed door and the front edge of the cabinet carcass. If the door binds against the frame or leaves too large a gap letting light through, adjust this setting.
- The depth adjustment screw is located towards the rear of the hinge arm.
- Loosen this screw slightly, move the door 1 mm to 2 mm forwards or backwards, and retighten.
- On hinges with eccentric cams, simply rotate the screw to smoothly shift the arm forwards or backwards.
FAQ: Frequently Asked Questions About Concealed Hinges
Why is my cabinet door hanging crooked and rubbing?
The lateral adjustment has usually shifted, or the weight of the door has pulled the hinge down over time. Use the front adjustment screw on the top hinge arm and turn it anti-clockwise to pull the top of the door closer to the carcass. Also check that the mounting plate screws are securely tightened into the timber.
What drill bit is needed for concealed cup hinges?
A Forstner drill bit (or machine cup hinge bit) is required to cut the large flat-bottomed recess. The standard diameter is 35 mm. Standard twist drill bits are unsuitable for these shallow, wide holes.
What is the difference between full overlay and inset hinges?
With a full overlay, the door sits over the front edges of the carcass side panels, covering them from view. With an inset door, the door sits inside the cabinet opening between the side panels, leaving the front edges visible.
Can soft-close dampers be retrofitted to older cabinets?
Yes. If you do not wish to replace the entire hinge, clip-on add-on dampers are available. These clip directly onto the arm of the existing hinge. However, the add-on damper must match the exact make and series of the installed hinge. Alternatively, replace the entire hinge with a model featuring integrated soft-close.
Why is my push-to-open catch not working properly?
If the door does not pop open when pressed, you are most likely using soft-close hinges. The soft-close damping absorbs the spring impulse of the push latch. For push-to-open systems, unsprung or standard non-damped hinges must be used.
What can I do if fixing screws strip in the wood?
If the mounting plate screws spin freely in the chipboard, the hole is stripped. Fill the hole with wood filler or epoxy resin, allow it to cure, and re-drill. Alternatively, drill the hole out to 5 mm or 8 mm, glue in a matching timber dowel, and drive the screw into the new dowel.
What does System 32 mean in cabinet construction?
System 32 is a furniture manufacturing standard specifying that hole lines in cabinet sides (for shelf supports, mounting plates, or drawer runners) are spaced in a vertical 32 mm grid. The hole diameter is typically 5 mm, placed 37 mm back from the front edge.
Summary and Additional Fittings
Precise cabinet door operation relies directly on hardware quality and correct adjustment. Whether you are assembling a straightforward wardrobe or planning a complex corner kitchen layout, selecting the correct crank, opening angle, and damping system is vital for a clean finish.
Explore all standard and specialist hardware solutions for your next project in our main category for Concealed Cup Hinges / Cabinet Hinges. When ordering, always consider door thickness and overall weight to ensure durable, perfectly aligned door reveals.