Assembling the MIKEL Wardrobe — Assembly Instructions
The professional assembly of the MIKEL wardrobe requires the correct alignment of the carcass, the precise installation of cam lock connectors, and mandatory wall anchoring for anti-tip protection.
The MIKEL Wardrobe: Preparation and Scope of Delivery
The MIKEL series offers functional storage solutions that feature a modular construction. Whether configured as a compact wardrobe 100 cm wide for alcoves, a classic model with a height of 180 cm and a depth of 50 cm, or a generous wardrobe 200 cm wide for the bedroom – the basic assembly principle remains identical.
The furniture is typically manufactured from melamine-faced chipboard. Depending on the chosen variant, the finish varies from plain white to a modern concrete look, anthracite, or classic dark brown, suitable for categories such as grey wardrobes or wooden wardrobes.
You should definitely plan for two people to carry out the assembly. In particular, standing up the assembled carcass and hanging the doors can rarely be managed without damage by a single person.
Before starting, check the contents against the enclosed parts list. Sort the fittings – screws, wooden dowels, cam lock connectors, and concealed cup hinges – into separate containers. This saves valuable time during assembly.
Required Tools for Assembly
Most fittings in the MIKEL range can be fitted using standard tools. Prepare the following tools:
- Cordless screwdriver: With matching bits. Note the difference between PZ (Pozidriv) and PH (Phillips). Most furniture fittings require a PZ2 bit.
- Screwdriver (manual): Essential for carefully tightening the cam lock connectors and fine-tuning the hinges.
- Rubber mallet or wooden mallet: For gently tapping in the wooden dowels.
- Joiner's hammer: For securing the back panel with nails.
- Spirit level and tape measure: To check the alignment.
- Drill: For the wall fixing (masonry or concrete drill bit depending on the wall structure).
Assembly Instructions: Step-by-Step to the Finished Wardrobe
Assembling furniture is like a mechanical puzzle – force is the wrong approach, because if a component does not fit, the alignment is usually incorrect. Proceed systematically.
Step 1: Assembling the Carcass
Begin with the base panel, the top panel, and the side panels. Insert the wooden dowels into the pre-drilled edges of the chipboard. If necessary, add a small drop of wood glue to increase stability.
Screw the connecting bolts of the cam lock connectors into the dedicated 5 mm drill holes in the side panels. Bring the components together. Now insert the round cam housings into the large drill holes (usually 15 mm). The small arrow on the housing must point towards the bolt. Turn the housing clockwise by approximately 180° using a manual screwdriver until the connector noticeably tightens.
Step 2: Securing the Back Panel
This step is crucial for the squareness of the entire wardrobe. Place the assembled carcass face down on the floor (lay cardboard underneath to protect the finish).
Before nailing the back panel, measure both diagonals of the carcass with a tape measure. The wardrobe is only truly square if both measurements are identical down to the millimetre. Nail the back panel at intervals of approximately 15 cm to 20 cm. On wider models, plastic H-profiles are often supplied to join two back panel sections together.
Step 3: Standing Up and Aligning the Wardrobe
Carefully tilt the wardrobe upright over its long edge with two people. Slide it into the desired position. Use the spirit level to check its vertical and horizontal alignment. On uneven floors, you may need to insert small wedges underneath, as otherwise the doors cannot be adjusted correctly later.
Step 4: Installing Interior Fittings
Insert the shelf supports (typically with a 5 mm diameter) into the line of holes. The MIKEL series uses the standardised System 32, which allows flexible spacing for the shelves. The wardrobe rail is placed into the corresponding rail end sockets, which were previously screwed onto the side panels.
Step 5: Fitting Doors and Hinges
Mount the cruciform mounting plates to the carcass interior. Screw the concealed cup hinges into the 35 mm cup holes on the doors. If dealing with outer doors, hinges for full overlay are used (the door completely covers the carcass edge). For multi-door wardrobes on a central divider, you require hinges for half overlay (the door covers only half the carcass edge).
Click or slide the hinges onto the mounting plates and tighten the fixing screws. If it is a wardrobe with sliding doors, the sliding rollers are screwed to the doors and hung into the guide tracks on the carcass instead.
Wall Fixing and Anti-Tip Protection (Important!)
A wardrobe with a height of 180 cm or more has a high centre of gravity, especially when the doors are opened. Installing an anti-tip bracket is vital for safety.
Use the supplied metal brackets. Secure them to the top of the wardrobe and drill corresponding holes in the wall. Use wall plugs and screws that match your specific wall material (plasterboard, brick, concrete). The supplied standard wall plugs are usually only suitable for solid masonry.
Tips and Common Assembly Pitfalls
- Doors scraping or hanging crooked: Adjust the gap directly using the screws on the concealed cup hinges. The front screw regulates the lateral overlay (gap between the doors). The rear screw serves for depth adjustment (distance between the door and carcass). Height is adjusted via the screws on the cruciform mounting plate.
- Stripped screw holes: If a screw loses its grip in the chipboard, fill the hole with a wooden toothpick and some wood glue, allow it to dry, and re-insert the screw. Alternatively, use a threaded insert for a permanent metal thread inside the wood.
- Breakouts when nailing: Ensure that the nails for the back panel are driven exactly into the centre of the 16 mm or 18 mm thick carcass edge. A nail driven in at an angle will rupture the finish on the inside.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) About Assembly
How long does it take to assemble the MIKEL wardrobe? For a two-door wardrobe, two people should plan for approximately 1.5 to 2 hours. For larger systems (e.g. 3 metres wide), the assembly time increases to around 3 to 4 hours.
Can I assemble the wardrobe upright? If the ceiling height in the room is not sufficient to tilt the flat-assembled wardrobe upright (take the wardrobe diagonal into account!), you must assemble it standing up. This strictly requires a second person to hold the side panels until the cam lock connectors engage. Fitting the back panel in an upright position is more demanding, as the wardrobe must be kept perfectly square at all times.
Why are the doors not closing flush even though the hinges are adjusted correctly? If adjusting the hinges does not solve the problem, the carcass itself is not level. Check with the spirit level whether the wardrobe is twisted, and compensate for any unevenness on the floor.
Matching Accessories and Upgrades
Once the basic structure is standing, the interior fittings can often be customised further. Additional shelves, alternative handle profiles, or dampers for gentle door closing (soft-close) enhance the piece of furniture. Corresponding components and replacement hardware can be found in our wardrobe accessories section.