Concealed Cup Hinges as Replacements for Alno Kitchens

Finding a suitable replacement cup hinge for kitchen cabinets strictly requires matching the cup diameter, hole pattern, and the correct door overlay type.

Older kitchen carcasses often retain great stability, yet mechanical components are subject to natural wear and tear. When doors drop, rub, or the closing mechanism fails, replacing the hardware becomes essential. Anyone looking for replacements for Alno does not necessarily have to source identical old stock. Modern hinges from furnica are fully compatible with Alno, provided that the fundamental technical parameters are considered during selection.

What to Look for Regarding Compatibility?

For a new hinge to work smoothly as an alternative to Alno, the dimensions on the cabinet carcass and on the furniture door must match precisely. The relationship between carcass and hinge functions much like a plug and socket; if the grid dimensions deviate, the mechanical connection cannot be established.

The Cup Hole Drilling

The most crucial dimension on the cabinet door is the diameter of the cup hole. For almost all standard kitchen cabinets, this measures 35 mm. Rarer 26 mm variants are used for very light or narrow doors, but are an exception in classic kitchen construction. The drilling depth (usually 11.5 mm to 12 mm) must also be sufficient so that the hinge cup sits flush inside the door.

The Hole Pattern and System 32

The hole pattern defines the spacing between the screw holes. On the hinge cup, the drilling distance for the fixing screws is frequently 45 mm or 52 mm. More critical for carcass installation is the cruciform mounting plate. In professional cabinet making, System 32 is used here. This means that pre-drilled holes in the carcass side are spaced 32 mm apart and are typically located 37 mm from the front carcass edge. If these dimensions match, the mounting plate can be replaced without drilling new holes.

The Types of Door Overlays

A common mistake when replacing hinges is selecting the wrong overlay type. This defines how the door rests on the carcass when closed:

• Full overlay: The door completely covers the front edge of the carcass side.
• Half overlay: Two doors share a single central carcass partition wall. The door covers only half the edge. The hinge features a visible crank.
• Inset: The door does not sit on the front face of the carcass, but finishes flush within the carcass sides. The hinge features a pronounced crank.

Suitable Fittings for Kitchen Refurbishment

Replacing defective hinges provides the ideal opportunity to technically upgrade kitchen functionality. The standard opening angle for standard cupboard doors is 110°. For corner units or cabinets with internal pull-outs, a wide-angle hinge with 155° or 165° is required so the open door does not obstruct the drawer path. In addition, switching to models with integrated damping makes sense. This soft-close mechanism slows the door down just before closing and pulls it silently against the carcass.

When hinges are being renewed anyway, many installers take the opportunity to retrofit the cabinet interior at the same time. Modern kitchen cabinet pull-outs considerably optimise storage space in base units. Matching Alno and other established grid systems, depending on the cabinet width, one can fit a kitchen cabinet pull-out 60 cm or, for narrower recesses, a kitchen cabinet pull-out 40 cm.

A technical update is also worthwhile in the sink base unit when overhauling hardware. A smooth-running pull-out kitchen bin or a system for kitchen waste separation can be mounted directly onto the carcass base. To complete the front refurbishment, new kitchen furniture handles ensure a consistently refreshed feel.

Installing and Retrofitting Cup Hinges

Installing a suitable replacement hinge is straightforward and efficient with the right tools.

Required Tools:

• Cordless screwdriver
• Matching bits (PZ or TX)
• Folding rule
• Bradawl / punch (if required)

Installation Steps:

1. Removal: Unclip or unscrew the old door. Detach the old mounting plate from the carcass.
2. Fixing the mounting plate: The new cruciform mounting plate is screwed into the existing 5 mm carcass holes. Special Euro screws are usually used for this.
3. Inserting the hinge cup: Press the new hinge into the 35 mm hole in the cabinet door. Secure it with two wood screws (typically 3.5 x 16 mm).
4. Fitting and mounting: Position the door with the hinge arm onto the mounting plate. With clip-on hinges, the arm engages with an audible click.
5. Fine adjustment: Using the three adjustment screws on the hinge arm, precisely align the door in height, depth, and side overlay until the gaps are completely uniform.

FAQ on Replacement Hinges

How do I find out whether I need a full overlay or an inset hinge? Look at the closed cabinet door. If the door covers the carcass side edge almost entirely, it is a full overlay. If the door sits set inside the carcass frame, you require an inset hinge.

Can I easily retrofit hinges with soft-close damping? Yes. As long as the cup drilling (usually 35 mm) and the hole pattern of the mounting plate match, you can replace standard hinges with soft-close models. The damping mechanism is integrated directly into the hinge arm and requires no extra space inside the carcass.

What should I do if the old screw holes in the carcass are stripped? If the Euro screws on the mounting plate no longer hold, special metal repair plates can be used. These cover the damaged section of chipboard and provide fresh, intact threaded holes for mounting the hinge.

Which opening angle is the right one? For classic wall and base units, an angle of 95° to 110° is sufficient. However, if there are drawers or internal pull-outs behind the door, a wide-angle hinge of 155° or 165° must be chosen. Only then does the door swing clear of the internal carcass space to prevent collisions when pulling out the trays.