Adjusting Push-to-Open Fittings: Optimise Depth Stop by Turning the Tip for Exact Gap Dimensions

April 14, 2026

Adjusting the depth stop on a push-to-open fitting is achieved by rotating the plunger tip, allowing you to set the release travel to the required gap dimension of exactly 2.0 mm to 3.0 mm.

Handleless furniture fronts require precise coordination of fitting technology. A push-to-open system (also known as a touch latch) operates purely mechanically or magnetically via a spring-loaded plunger. If the front fails to release upon pressing, sticks, or shows an uneven gap against the carcass, the issue almost always stems from an incorrectly set depth stop. This guide for fitters and joiners explains the millimetre-accurate adjustment of the release tip, setting the correct gap dimension, and achieving proper interaction with matching hinges or runners.

Adjustment takes around five minutes per front and requires a basic technical understanding of furniture fitting kinematics.

Required Tools and Materials

Adjusting the tip on the touch latch itself often requires no tools, as the thread can be turned by hand. However, for complete alignment of the front and mounting plates, you will need:

Calliper gauge or spacer shims (for checking the gap dimension)
Screwdriver with PZ (Pozidriv) or TX (Torx) drive in size 2
Optional: Spirit level for aligning wide fronts

Step-by-Step Guide: Adjusting Push-to-Open Fittings

The thread of the release tip behaves like the fine adjustment on a microscope – fractions of a millimetre determine whether the mechanism functions smoothly or blocks entirely. Follow a systematic approach to optimise release travel.

1. Check Current Condition and Gap Dimension

Before adjusting the fitting, measure the current gap between the back of the furniture front and the front edge of the carcass. A mechanical push-to-open system requires release travel. If the front rests flush against the carcass, the plunger cannot be depressed to release the spring. For most systems, the optimal gap dimension is exactly 2.5 mm. Measure this distance with the door closed, close to the fitting.

2. Access the Mechanism

Open the door or pull out the drawer. The fitting is either drilled into the carcass edge (usually with a 10 mm diameter drill hole) or screwed to the inside of the carcass via a cruciform mounting plate. Check whether the plunger moves freely and latches and releases with an audible click when pressed.

3. Adjust the Depth Stop by Turning

The tip of the plunger features a fine thread. This is where you make depth adjustments:

Increase gap dimension (front stands further out): Turn the tip anti-clockwise (outwards). This extends the plunger. The front is pushed further away from the carcass, increasing the release travel for finger pressure.
Decrease gap dimension (front moves closer to carcass): Turn the tip clockwise (inwards). The plunger becomes shorter.

Turn the tip in half-turns and test the result. The adjustment range on standard fittings is typically +3.0 mm to -2.0 mm.

4. Coordinate Interaction with Hinges

On standard cabinet doors, a perfectly adjusted touch latch is ineffective if the concealed hinges are selected incorrectly or misaligned. Handleless doors strictly require unsprung hinges (without catch springs) or hinges with a reverse spring. Check the reveal gap at the hinges. If you wind out the push-to-open fitting on the opening side by 2.0 mm, you may need to make a minimal depth adjustment at the hinge (the rear screw on the hinge arm) to ensure the closed door remains parallel to the carcass. This is particularly relevant when using standard Concealed hinges / cabinet hinges.

5. Check Magnetic Contact (for Magnetic Systems)

If your system features a magnetic tip, a metal counterpart (counterplate) will be mounted to the inside of the door. When closed, the tip of the plunger must sit completely flush against the counterplate. Wind the tip out until full contact is made without play, while still retaining the required 2.5 mm of release travel to depress the door.

6. Functional Test

Close the front. Press centrally at the height of the fitting. The front must now depress by at least 2.0 mm, produce an audible "click", and spring open via the plunger spring force. The opening angle should be wide enough to allow fingers to reach behind the front.

Common Installation and Adjustment Errors

Error 1: Combining with soft-close hinges A frequent installation error is attempting to combine push-to-open with soft-close damping. Soft-close and push-to-open are opposing mechanisms. A damper brakes the door and actively pulls it closed over the final centimetres. This closing force permanently compresses the push-to-open plunger or prevents it from springing open. For handleless fronts, exclusively use unsprung hinges, such as classic Concealed hinges / cabinet hinges 110 degrees without springs. If you prefer damping, you must install handles and use Concealed hinges / cabinet hinges with damping (Soft Close).

Error 2: Incorrect positioning on the carcass The fitting must be mounted exactly where pressure will later be applied to the front. For doors, this is the handle side, ideally at lock height or centrally. If the fitting is positioned too close to the hinge, there is insufficient leverage to push the door open.

Error 3: Release travel set too tight If the tip is wound too far in (gap dimension below 1.5 mm), the front strikes the carcass upon pressing before the mechanism can unlatch. The door jams.

Special Considerations for Drawers and Flaps

The principle of the adjustable tip primarily applies to hinged doors. Other furniture elements use different mechanisms:

Drawer Runners

For handleless drawers, the mechanism is integrated directly into the runner. When fitting Drawer runners push to open, depth adjustment is often performed via a small thumbwheel directly on the undermount runner or at the front end of the slide. Here, too, a release gap of approximately 2.0 mm to 3.0 mm must be maintained between the drawer front and carcass. Pay attention to whether you are using full extension or single extension runners, as this influences running behaviour after release. Again, do not combine these with Drawer runners with damping unless using an explicitly designated hybrid system.

Flap Fittings

For upward-opening fronts, installers frequently use gas struts. A Flap fittings system for handleless fronts requires particularly strong springs in the push-to-open plunger, as it must overcome the inherent weight of the flap to push it open far enough for the gas strut to engage. The force of the gas strut is measured in Newtons (N). The plunger tip must be adjusted with high precision so that the magnet (if present) securely holds the heavy flap closed.

FAQ – Frequently Asked Questions

Why does the door not release despite being pressed? Either the release travel is insufficient because the front already rests against the carcass (wind the tip further out), or the hinges have a strong closing spring that overpowers the plunger.

Can I replace a defective plunger individually? Yes, on most surface-mounted systems, the cylindrical plunger can be unclipped from the adapter plate and replaced. The System 32 (hole line spacing of 32 mm) ensures that adapter plates from various manufacturers are often compatible with existing carcass drillings.

What gap is required for twin doors (centre partition)? On a centre partition, two doors meet on a single carcass divider. Both require their own push-to-open fitting. The gap dimension to the carcass remains 2.5 mm. Pay particular attention to synchronising the adjustment of both plunger tips, otherwise the doors will show a visible offset when closed.

Are push-to-open fittings available for heavy fronts? Yes. For large MDF or solid timber fronts, long versions of the touch latch are available. These feature longer release travel (often up to 40 mm stroke) and a stronger spring to push heavy fronts open reliably.

Relevant Hardware Categories

If you are undertaking further adjustments alongside front alignment, you can source matching hardware components for your project here:

For hanging handleless doors correctly: Concealed hinges / cabinet hinges
For fitting handleless drawer systems: Drawer runners push to open
For upward-opening elements: Flap fittings
For standard doors with an opening angle over 90 degrees: Concealed hinges / cabinet hinges 110 degrees
For desks and office furniture with handleless pedestals: Cable grommet for desk