Aligning Plinth Legs Correctly: Positioning Plinth Clips Suitable for IKEA Faktum Exactly

The precise positioning of plinth clips on an adjustable cabinet leg is essential for fitting the lower kickboard of an IKEA Faktum kitchen flush and without tension.

Fitting plinths requires precision. Particularly with older kitchen systems such as IKEA Faktum, which feature a standard plinth height of 160 mm, the mounting brackets must be matched exactly to the cylindrical furniture legs. Incorrect positioning leads to protruding plinths, uneven gap reveals, or snapped plastic clips. This guide is aimed at fitters and experienced tradespeople who are assembling Faktum carcasses from scratch, modifying them, or replacing existing plinths.

Preparations and Technical Parameters

The Faktum system traditionally relies on round plastic legs that are height-adjustable via a coarse thread (typical adjustment range: 145 mm - 170 mm). The matching clips consist of a baseplate, which is screwed to the rear of the plinth, and a C-shaped bracket that clips around the leg.

Time required: approx. 15 to 20 minutes per linear metre of plinth. Difficulty level: Medium (requires precise measurement and levelling with a spirit level).

Required Tools & Materials

For professional installation, you will require the following tool equipment:

• Cross-line laser or long spirit level (at least 1200 mm)
• Tape measure and a fine pencil
• Cordless screwdriver with torque control
• PZ2 bit (Pozidriv) or TX15 bit (Torx), depending on the chosen screw type
• Wood drill bit (Ø 3 mm) with depth stop
• Panhead screws (round head, typically 3.5 x 15 mm for 16 mm thick plinths)
• Adjustable plinth legs suitable for the respective system
• Matching plinth clips (often two-piece: screw-on baseplate and clamping ring)

Step-by-Step Guide: Fitting Plinth Clips

The following guide describes the installation process from levelling the carcass to clicking the plinth into place.

Step 1: Align and Secure the Carcass

Before measurements for the clips can be taken, the entire run of base units must be fully aligned and levelled. Any subsequent height adjustment of the legs will displace the position of the clamping groove.

1. Wind out all legs roughly to the nominal dimension of 160 mm.
2. Place the cabinets in their final position and screw the carcasses together (e.g. using carcass connectors).
3. Level the run horizontally using a spirit level or laser. Start at the highest point of the room floor to prevent having to wind the legs further in than the thread allows elsewhere.
4. Fix the cabinets to the wall with brackets if necessary, preventing them from shifting when pressing the plinth into place later.

Step 2: Cut and Prepare the Plinth

The typical plinth is made from coated chipboard (thickness 16 mm or 19 mm).

1. Measure the total length required.
2. Cut the plinth to size using a plunge saw and guide rail.
3. Seal the cut edges thoroughly against moisture ingress (e.g. with silicone, waterproof wood glue, or edging tape), as mopping water on the kitchen floor will otherwise cause the wood to swell.
4. Adhere a sealing strip (lip) to the bottom edge of the plinth. This compensates for floor unevenness and prevents dirt from getting under the cabinet.

Step 3: Transfer Measurements for the Clips (The Critical Step)

The clips must sit at the exact height of the groove on the legs.

1. With the cabinet standing and levelled, measure the distance from the floor to the centre of the clamping groove on the plinth leg. For Faktum, this dimension is usually around 140 mm (depending on the floor gradient).
2. Place the plinth face down on a clean work surface.
3. Take the thickness of the bottom sealing lip into account when transferring the measurement. If the groove on the leg is at 140 mm and the sealing lip adds 2 mm when fitted, mark the centre of the clip baseplate at 138 mm (measured from the bottom edge of the wooden plinth).
4. Determine the horizontal position: measure the distance from the outer edge of the carcass to the centre of each leg and transfer this measurement onto the plinth.

Step 4: Pre-drill and Screw the Clips

1. Mark the drill holes for the clip baseplates at the marked intersection points.
2. Use the 3 mm wood drill bit with a depth stop (set to max. 12 mm) to avoid drilling through the chipboard.
3. Fasten the baseplates using the panhead screws. Do not use countersunk screws, as these can crack the plastic slotted holes of the clips.
4. Slide the C-shaped brackets onto the baseplates.

Step 5: Fit the Plinth

Snapping the clips onto the round legs works on the mechanical principle of a pen cap – with straight pressure and a noticeable click into place.

1. Offer the plinth up to the legs at a slight angle.
2. Align the clips directly in front of the legs.
3. Press the plinth firmly against the unit using the flat of your hand at leg height until all brackets engage into the leg grooves.

Common Mistakes in Plinth Installation

• Ignoring the floor sealing lip during measurement: If the height of the sealing lip is not subtracted from the measured height dimension, the clips will sit too high. The plinth cannot be fitted or will lift the cabinet when pressed on.
• Overtightening screws: Many clips feature slotted holes. Tighten the screws hand-tight so that the clip retains a minimal tolerance (approx. 1 mm). This facilitates clipping it on later if the legs are not 100% plumb.
• Incorrect screw length: With a 16 mm chipboard, a 17 mm screw will inevitably penetrate the decorative surface of the front. Use screws that are a maximum of 15 mm long.

Extended Applications for Faktum Hardware

The robust Faktum system is frequently used by fitters and DIY enthusiasts for modifications outside the traditional kitchen. Those converting old carcasses in the living area into the base for a TV sideboard or a low TV unit often use significantly shorter legs (e.g. 50 mm or 80 mm). In these cases, a continuous plinth is usually omitted in favour of decorative individual metal legs.

However, the principle of precise levelling remains identical across all furniture builds – whether you are installing a kitchen run or setting up a large double wardrobe. A carcass that is not level inevitably leads to warped doors that cannot be corrected via hinge adjustments.

Precision is also required in the upper section of the kitchen. For wall units incorporating a plate rack for wall cabinets, the fall must be exact to ensure water drains correctly. For wall units with large upward-opening fronts, gas struts for heavy flaps are frequently installed. These gas struts (specified in Newtons) only operate smoothly if the carcass is hung completely square on the wall rail through proper installation.

FAQ – Expert Knowledge on Alignment and Hinges

How can you level a kitchen without adjustable legs? If a kitchen is mounted on a continuous timber base frame made from solid structural timber (e.g. square timber 60 x 60 mm), levelling is not done via screw threads. In this case, the timber frame is positioned in the room beforehand and levelled with plastic shims (spacers) to the exact millimetre. Only once the entire base frame is level and screwed to the floor or wall are the carcasses placed on top.

How do you adjust cabinet doors properly once the carcass is standing? After the base is assembled, fine adjustment of the fronts is carried out via the concealed hinge. A standard concealed cup hinge provides 3D adjustment:

1. Depth adjustment: Loosening the rear screw on the cruciform mounting plate allows the door to be moved closer to or further away from the carcass (regulating the gap reveal to the front edge of the cabinet).
2. Height adjustment: Using the screws on the mounting plate (often slotted holes), the door can be raised or lowered by ± 2 mm.
3. Lateral adjustment: The front adjustment screw on the hinge arm moves the door left or right to align the door gaps parallel between two doors.

Which hinge is required for which type of door overlay? The choice of hinge determines the position of the door relative to the carcass. A full overlay hinge is used when the door covers the carcass side panel almost completely. A half overlay hinge is used for twin doors sharing a central dividing wall. An inset hinge is installed when the door sits flush within the carcass side panels. The standard cup diameter for cabinet doors is typically 35 mm.

What to do if the old Faktum clips are broken? Plastic ages and becomes brittle over time. If original clips break during removal, universal plinth clips can be used. The only crucial factor is that the diameter of the C-bracket matches the diameter of the Faktum leg (measure the diameter of the clamping groove on the leg, usually approx. 28 mm to 30 mm). The baseplate is then screwed on again as described in Step 4.