Assembling the JOELLE Highboard — Assembly Instructions

The JOELLE highboard is a compact cabinet unit that allows for stable self-assembly in under two hours through the use of cam lock fittings and wooden dowels.

Anyone assembling a piece of furniture for a hallway or living room requires a clear method. The JOELLE range is characterised by slim dimensions – often with a depth of 30 cm to 35 cm and a width of around 70 cm to 75 cm. These proportions make highboards ideal for tight spaces, yet they require particular attention during assembly in terms of stability and wall mounting.

These instructions guide you step by step through the assembly, from sorting the hardware fittings to adjusting the hinges. Whether the finish is in Wotan Oak, white, or a highboard black with a matt surface – the mechanical steps for the carcass system remain identical.

Scope of Delivery and Preparation

Before using the first screwdriver, taking inventory is strictly necessary. The furniture is usually supplied in flat-pack cartons. Unpack all components carefully and place them on a soft surface, such as the empty shipping box or a carpet, to avoid scratches on the chipboard or the MDF front.

Inside the fittings pack, you will find various connecting elements. Sort these beforehand into small trays:

• Wooden dowels (usually 8 mm x 30 mm)
• Cam lock connectors (consisting of cam dowel bolts and cam lock casings)
• Chipboard screws for the hinges
• Back panel nails or small screws for the rear panel
• Shelf supports for the internal shelves
• Concealed cup hinges along with mounting plates

Assembly is like a mechanical puzzle – if you sort the small hardware logically beforehand, the carcass comes together later almost without interruption.

Required Tools

For the assembly of JOELLE highboards, no specialised tools are needed. A solid basic toolkit is sufficient:

• Cordless screwdriver with suitable bits (usually PZ for cross-head or TX for Torx)
• Manual screwdriver (cross-head) for precise tightening of the cam lock connectors and adjusting the hinges
• Wooden mallet or rubber mallet for the dowels
• Standard hammer for the back panel nails
• Folding ruler or tape measure
• Spirit level
• Drill and masonry drill bit (for wall mounting)

Step-by-Step Assembly Instructions

Step 1: Preparation of the Side Panels and Shelves

Begin by inserting all wooden dowels into the pre-drilled holes provided in the side panels, bottom panel, and top panel. A drop of wood glue per hole increases final stability, but is not strictly compulsory for dry-fit systems. Next, screw the threaded bolts of the cam lock connectors into the small, usually 5 mm drill holes. Ensure you drive them in straight and only up to the stop of the thread.

Step 2: Assembling the Carcass

Join the bottom panel and the fixed structural shelves to one of the side panels. Slot the components together so that the cam bolts engage into the large holes on the cross pieces. Now insert the circular cam lock casings into the holes. The small arrow on the casing must point towards the bolt. Using a manual screwdriver, turn the casing approximately 180° clockwise until the connection noticeably tightens. Then assemble the second side panel and the top panel in the same way.

Step 3: Fitting the Back Panel

The back panel gives the cabinet its square structural rigidity. Lay the carcass face down on the floor. Place the back panel in position. Before driving in the first nail, measure both diagonals of the cabinet (from corner to corner). Both dimensions must be identical to the exact millimetre. If they match, the cabinet is square. Now nail or screw the back panel all around at intervals of roughly 10 cm to 15 cm.

Step 4: Installing Hardware and Doors

Screw the cruciform mounting plates of the hinges to the pre-drilled positions inside the side panels of the cabinet. The concealed cup hinges (usually with a cup diameter of 35 mm) are pressed into the large circular routings in the doors and secured with two screws.

Lift the door and slide the hinge arm onto the mounting plate. With modern clip-on hinges, the hinge snaps into place with an audible click. On older systems, the arm is tightened with a fixing screw.

Step 5: Inserting the Shelves

Insert the shelf supports into the lateral hole rows. Furniture of this type often utilises the System 32, where holes are spaced vertically at an interval of 32 mm. This allows you to adjust the compartment height flexibly. Then simply place the shelves onto the supports.

Wall Mounting and Anti-Tip Protection (Important!)

Especially when choosing a model with a slim build or shallow depth (e.g. 30 cm), anti-tip protection is absolutely essential. When doors are opened, the centre of gravity shifts forward.

1. Place the piece of furniture in its final position.
2. Align it precisely using a spirit level. Use small levelling shims if the floor is uneven.
3. Mark the drill holes on the wall through the designated fixing brackets on the back of the top panel.
4. Drill the holes and insert suitable wall plugs (depending on whether you have a concrete, brick, or plasterboard wall).
5. Screw the brackets firmly to the wall.

Tips & Common Pitfalls

• Crooked doors: The gap alignment can be adjusted using the three screws on the concealed cup hinge. The front screw regulates lateral overlay (left/right), the rear screw controls depth (distance from the carcass), and the mounting plate screws adjust height.
• Torn screw holes: If your tool slips or you overtighten screws on a highboard black with matt decorative foil, the coating can easily fray. Set the torque on your cordless screwdriver to a low setting.
• Split in the back panel: On wider models (from approx. 75 cm), the back panel often consists of two parts joined by a plastic H-profile. Slide this profile onto the first panel half before placing the second one against it and nailing both down together.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

How long does it take to assemble the JOELLE highboard? One person with basic DIY experience requires approximately 1.5 to 2 hours for assembly. Working in a pair makes aligning the carcass and installing the back panel significantly faster.

Can the highboard be set up without a back panel? No. The thin HDF board on the back is a structural load-bearing element. Without it, the carcass would collapse like a house of cards under lateral load.

What drill bit size do I need for wall mounting? That depends on the wall plugs used. For standard furniture fixings, 6 mm or 8 mm nylon wall plugs are commonly used, which require a corresponding 6 mm or 8 mm masonry drill bit.

Why do the doors not close flush? This is almost always caused by an uneven floor or incorrectly adjusted hinges. First check with a spirit level that the unit is completely level and plumb. Only adjust the screws on the concealed cup hinge after doing so.

--- Matching components, hardware variations in black or steel, and further storage fittings for hallway and living room furniture can be found in our comprehensive selection for highboards.