How to Dismantle Flap Stays: Safely Removing Defective Fittings (Replacements for Mepla) from the Carcase
Dismantling a defective flap stay requires releasing the tension from the spring mechanism or gas strut beforehand to prevent damage to the furniture front and the pre-drilled holes in the cabinet carcase.
When a wall unit flap no longer stays open or drops uncontrollably when closing, the lift mechanism's power unit is usually defective. This frequently affects older systems, where fitters must now install a suitable replacement for Mepla fittings or similar brands. Removing old components must be done methodically, as the fittings remain under mechanical tension. Loosening screws without relieving tension can tear out fixings in the chipboard or lead to personal injury.
This guide is aimed at joiners, kitchen fitters, and skilled DIYers. It explains how to safely remove up-and-over, bi-fold, and parallel lift-up flap fittings to prepare the cabinet carcase for installing new flap fittings.
Preparation: Required Tools and Materials
Dismantling furniture fittings requires precise hand tools. Cordless screwdrivers should be avoided during removal to prevent damaging the screw heads.
- Cross-head screwdriver: Size PZ2 (Pozidriv) for most chipboard screws and Euro screws.
- Torx screwdriver: Size TX20, commonly used on newer heavy-duty fittings.
- Hex key / Allen key: Usually 3 mm or 4 mm for the spring tension adjustment screws.
- Support prop: A cut-to-size wooden batten (alternatively a telescopic assembly prop).
- Flat-blade screwdriver: For prising off plastic cover caps.
Time and Difficulty Level
- Time required: approx. 15 - 20 minutes per flap.
- Difficulty: Medium. A basic understanding of mechanical leverage is essential.
Step-by-Step Guide: Correctly Dismantling Flap Stays
This procedure applies in principle to all common lift-up and flap systems, regardless of whether you are dealing with a purely mechanical spring mechanism or a system with a gas strut.
1. Support and Secure the Furniture Front
Open the flap fully to its maximum opening angle (usually 90° to 110°). Wedge the prepared wooden batten between the base panel of the cabinet and the opened front panel. This prop acts as a mechanical assistant, fully taking the door's own weight. A flap stay can only be released safely once it is completely free of load.
2. Remove Cover Caps
Most lift mechanisms mounted to the inner carcase wall are concealed by plastic cover caps. Carefully insert the flat-blade screwdriver into the designated slot on the bottom or rear of the cap and prise it off. On older Mepla models, the cap is often secured by a small cross-head screw that must be removed first.
3. Release Spring Tension
Locate the adjustment screw for the spring force. This is usually found on the front face or top edge of the fitting. Turn the screw (typically PZ2 or hex key) anticlockwise to reduce the internal tension inside the casing to its minimum. For a pure gas strut, this step is omitted, as the pressure is sealed within the cylinder and cannot be manually released.
4. Disconnect the Front Fixing
Now detach the connection between the lever arm of the fitting and the mounting bracket on the furniture front.
- Clip mechanism: Many modern systems feature a lever or push-button at the joint. Engaging it releases the arm from the front panel without tools.
- Screw-fixed connection: Loosen the retaining screws on the front bracket. Hold the lever arm securely while doing this, as any residual tension can cause it to snap upwards or downwards suddenly.
Repeat this process on the opposite side. The furniture front can now be removed and set aside safely.
5. Dismantle the Carcase Mountings
Loosen the screws securing the main body of the fitting to the cabinet's internal wall. These are typically pre-mounted Euro screws (Ø 5 mm) that engage into the System 32 hole pattern (line borings at 32 mm centres). Back out the screws evenly and remove the fitting. Take care not to scratch adjacent components such as carcase connectors with your tools.
6. Check and Prepare the Drilling Pattern
Measure the centres of the old drill holes in the cabinet side panel. When replacing an obsolete fitting, the drilling pattern of the new model rarely matches the old holes. Seal stripped or redundant holes with wood filler, or tap in suitable wooden dowels (Ø 5 mm) with wood glue to create a flush, level surface for installing the new hardware.
Special Considerations for Heavy Flaps and Gas Struts
When dismantling a lift-up flap fitting carrying a large-format MDF or glass front, substantial leverage forces are involved. Such heavy-duty systems frequently use dual springs or very strong gas pressure cylinders.
When selecting replacements, it is crucial to choose the correct power rating in Newtons (N). An excessively strong strut will cause the flap to fling upwards violently, while one that is too weak will not hold it open. For gas struts for heavy flaps, the required rating is calculated from the weight of the front (including the handle) and the front height. As a rule of thumb for dismantling: the higher the printed N rating (e.g. 350 N or 450 N), the more caution is required when unhooking the lever arm, as the cylinder can extend abruptly when relieved of load.
Different Applications in Furniture Construction
The dismantling method also depends on the type of furniture unit you are working on. In the kitchen, such as on wall cabinets positioned over a dish rack for wall unit, top-opening bi-fold or parallel lift mechanisms are standard. Here, the fittings work against gravity.
The situation differs in living areas: anyone working on a lowboard for TV or a sideboard for TV featuring bottom-hung, drop-down flaps will be dismantling drop-down flap stays (braking stays). These stays do not push the flap upwards; instead, they gently brake its downward descent. When dismantling these braking stays, the flap must be firmly supported in the closed or slightly opened position, otherwise it will instantly drop downwards once the screws are removed, potentially tearing the hinges out of the bottom panel.
Common Pitfalls to Avoid During Dismantling
- Loosening under load: Backing out carcase fixing screws while the flap is still attached to the lever arm will inevitably strip the threads out of the chipboard.
- Using the wrong screwdriver: A PH (Phillips) screwdriver used in a PZ (Pozidriv) screw will cam out and ruin the screw head. Always use the exact matching profile.
- Forcing off cover caps: Plastic caps that have been in service for years become brittle. Excessive leverage can snap them. Always insert your tool at the widest seam.
FAQ on Dismantling and Replacing Flap Fittings
How do I find the correct replacement for an old Mepla flap stay? As many legacy Mepla ranges are no longer manufactured, replacement usually involves fitting an entirely new system (e.g. modern kinematic lift mechanisms or gas strut systems). It is essential that the new system is rated for your front panel's weight and height. The old drilling pattern can rarely be reused directly; you will need to measure and mark out the new manufacturer's mounting positions accurately.
What should I do if a screw hole in the cabinet wall is stripped? If the chipboard screw no longer grips, carefully drill out the hole to 8 mm. Then screw in a threaded insert (Rampa nut) with an internal M4 thread. The new fitting can then be anchored securely into the carcase using a metric machine screw, providing excellent tensile strength.
Can I repair a gas strut that has lost its pressure? No. A gas strut is a sealed unit containing nitrogen gas under high pressure. Once the internal seals wear out and the gas escapes, the cylinder loses its lifting force. The unit must be fully removed and replaced with a cylinder of identical length (in mm) and identical extension force (in Newtons).
Do I always need to replace both sides? Yes. When one lift mechanism or strut loses strength, the opposite side has been carrying double the load for an extended period and will also be worn. Always replace flap fittings in pairs to prevent door warping and uneven stress on the hinges.