How to Fit Concealed Cabinet Hinges: Step-by-Step Installation Guide

July 15, 2026

Fitting concealed cabinet hinges requires millimetre precision: a correct cup hole of typically 35 mm diameter, exact edge distances (C dimension), and the accurate alignment of the cruciform mounting plate within System 32 are essential for neat gap margins.

This guide is aimed at joiners, fitters, and experienced trade professionals who need to professionally install, adjust, or replace cabinet door hinges. The following guide walks you through the technical requirements, correct dimension calculation, and the final 3D adjustment of cabinet doors.

Preparation: Determining the Overlay Type and Hinge Model

Before installing hinges for cabinet doors, the carcase construction must be analysed. The choice of the appropriate concealed hinge depends primarily on the position of the door in relation to the carcase side panel. In furniture construction, three basic overlay types are distinguished:

Full overlay: When closed, the cabinet door covers almost the entire front edge of the carcase side panel. Only a minimal lateral gap remains.
Half overlay (twin overlay): Two doors share a single central carcase partition. Each door overlays only half of the front edge (usually approx. 7 mm to 9 mm) so that both doors can open without collision.
Inset: The door sits flush with the front edge of the carcase and is positioned entirely between the carcase side panels.

In addition to the overlay type, the opening angle defines the functionality. The standard for conventional concealed hinges / cabinet hinges 110 degrees covers most applications. For internal drawers or corner cabinets, wide-angle hinges are frequently required, such as concealed hinges / cabinet hinges 155 degrees or even concealed hinges / cabinet hinges 165 degrees.

If doors need to close silently, professionals rely on concealed hinges / cabinet hinges with damping (Soft Close). Here, the damping mechanism is integrated directly into the hinge cup or the hinge arm. When using such kitchen cabinet hinges with soft close, separate door buffers are not required.

Required Tools and Materials

The following tools and fixings are required for the professional installation of furniture hinges:

Forstner bit: Essential for drilling the hinge cup hole. The standard diameter is 35 mm. For very small or lightweight doors (e.g. bathroom units), mini concealed hinges with 26 mm are available.
Cordless drill driver with depth stop (optional, but recommended to avoid drilling straight through).
Wood drill bits: Ø 3 mm or 5 mm for pre-drilling fixing holes and carcase system holes.
Screwdrivers / driver bits: Matching the screws, typically PZ 2 (Pozidriv) or TX 15 / TX 20 (Torx).
Measuring tools: Combination square, folding rule or tape measure, pencil, and a pointed bradawl (marking awl).
Fixings: Countersunk woodscrews / chipboard screws, typically in the size 3.5 x 16 mm (for 19 mm board thickness).

Installing Cabinet Hinges — Step-by-Step Guide

The assembly of a cabinet door operates like clockwork – if a single drill hole deviates by just a few millimetres, the entire system can bind and the reveal will become uneven. Proceed strictly according to the following steps during installation.

Step 1: Measuring and Marking Out (C Dimension and System 32)

The position of the hinges is determined by two main axes: the vertical height on the door and the horizontal C dimension (edge distance).

Determine the height: Mark the centre axis of the hinge. On standard doors, this measurement is often 100 mm to 120 mm from the top and bottom edges of the door.
Mark the C dimension: The C dimension defines the distance from the door edge to the perimeter of the 35 mm cup hole. It varies depending on the hinge type and desired reveal, but is usually between 3 mm and 7 mm.
Cross the lines. The intersection point (height axis + C dimension + 17.5 mm bit radius) is the exact centre point for the centre spur of the Forstner bit.

Step 2: Drilling the Cup Hole

Insert the 35 mm Forstner bit into the chuck.
Drill perpendicular into the inside face of the door. The standard drilling depth for a hinge cup is 11.5 mm to 13 mm.
Check the depth periodically. The centre spur of the Forstner bit must not pierce the decorative finish on the front face of the door. A depth stop on the drill bit provides maximum safety here.

Step 3: Inserting and Screwing the Hinge Cup

Press the hinge cup into the 35 mm hole. It must fit snugly and sit completely flush with the panel surface.
Align the hinge arm at exactly 90° to the door edge. Use a try square held against the hinge arm and the door edge to ensure squareness.
Pre-punch the fixing holes (usually spaced at 45 mm or 52 mm, depending on the manufacturer) using a bradawl.
Fasten the cup using two screws (3.5 x 16 mm).

Step 4: Fixing the Mounting Plate to the Carcase

The mounting plate forms the counterpart on the carcase. In professional furniture construction, positioning follows System 32.

The front row of holes in the carcase has a standard setback of 37 mm from the front edge of the carcase.
Transfer the height axis of the door hinges accurately onto the inside of the carcase. Make sure to account for the top and bottom reveals (clearances) of the door.
The mounting plate is fastened using Euro screws (for 5 mm holes) or woodscrews (with 3 mm pilot holes). The standard hole spacing of the mounting plate is 32 mm.

Step 5: Hanging the Door and 3D Adjustment

Modern furniture hinges feature clip-on technology.

Position the hinge arm onto the mounting plate and press firmly until it audibly clicks into place.
Now perform the 3D adjustment to achieve an even reveal:

Side adjustment (lateral gap): Turning the front adjustment screw on the hinge arm moves the door to the left or right.
Depth adjustment: The rear screw (often an eccentric cam) regulates the distance between the door and the carcase. This ensures the door does not bind against the carcase side when opening.
Height adjustment: By loosening the fixing screws on the mounting plate (or via an eccentric screw on the plate), the door can typically be adjusted vertically by ± 2 mm.

Common Mistakes When Fitting Cabinet Hinges

Even experienced tradespeople encounter errors during hardware installation. Keep these critical points in mind:

Incorrect C dimension selected: If the edge distance is drilled too large, the door will not open fully because the door edge catches on the carcase side. If the dimension is too small, an unsightly, overly wide gap appears.
Angled cup hole: If the Forstner bit is not applied at a precise 90° angle, the hinge cup will sit skewed. The door will inevitably bind or stand proud.
Confusing the overlay type: Using a full overlay hinge on a shared centre partition leaves no room for the second door. Always check the crank of the hinge arm beforehand. A high crank indicates an inset hinge, while a straight arm indicates a full overlay hinge.

FAQ — Frequently Asked Questions About Hinge Installation

How many hinges does a cabinet door require? The number depends on the height and weight of the door (e.g. made from 19 mm chipboard or MDF). As a rule of thumb:

Up to 900 mm height / 4 kg to 6 kg: 2 hinges
Up to 1600 mm height / 12 kg to 17 kg: 3 hinges
Up to 2000 mm height / 17 kg to 22 kg: 4 hinges
From 2400 mm height / from 22 kg: 5 hinges

How do you fit a simple hinge (surface-mounted hinge vs. concealed hinge)? When fitting a simple hinge (such as a piano hinge or a classic surface-mounted hinge), the 35 mm cup hole is not required. These fittings are screwed directly onto the surface of the door and carcase. The downside: they generally offer no 3D adjustment options and no integrated soft-close mechanism. For modern cabinetry, concealed hinges are the technical standard.

What must be considered when fitting flap hinges? When fitting flap hinges correctly, note that they often use the carcase base as a stop (e.g. in a drinks cabinet). Dedicated flap hinges that sit flush are used here. Because these hinges cannot support the weight of the flap in the open position on their own, they must be combined with suitable flap stays or gas struts for heavy flaps. The force of the strut (in Newtons, e.g. 100 N or 250 N) must be matched precisely to the weight of the flap.

What should be done if kitchen cabinet hinge screws pull out? Frequent stress can cause fixing screws to pull out of chipboard. In this case, drill out the damaged holes in the carcase to 5 mm or 8 mm and insert threaded inserts. Alternatively, dedicated metal hinge repair plates can be screwed on to bridge the damaged hole pattern and provide fresh threaded points for the mounting plate.

Which hinge is used for corner cabinets? For corner units (e.g. sink base units with a dummy front panel), specific angles are needed. A concealed hinge / cabinet hinge 90 degrees is used to attach a door to a blind panel positioned at a right angle (blind corner application).

Related Components for Cabinet Making

When extending or upgrading carcases, other fittings and hardware components frequently play an important role. Explore technical solutions for various cabinetry applications:

Concealed hinges / cabinet hinges — An overview of all drilling patterns and overlay types.
Concealed hinges / cabinet hinges with damping (Soft Close) — For silent closing action.
Gas struts for heavy flaps — Essential hardware when installing downward-opening flap hinges.