How to Fit Concealed Cup Hinges: Step-by-Step Guide for the 32 mm Hole Pattern

June 17, 2026

Fitting a concealed cup hinge according to System 32 requires an exact 35 mm cup hole in the cabinet door alongside a precisely positioned cruciform mounting plate within the 32 mm cabinet carcass grid.

Accurately drilling and adjusting hinges is one of the fundamental tasks in cabinet making. When a cupboard door catches, hangs crookedly, or fails to close flush, the cause is usually an inaccurate measurement or an incorrect hinge overlay type. This technical guide is aimed at installers and ambitious DIYers who want to align cabinet doors precisely according to industry standards. Initial setup takes around 15 to 20 minutes per door, provided the drilling pattern is understood and the correct tools are available.

Understanding System 32

Before picking up the drill, the systematic logic of modern cabinet construction must be clear. System 32 is an international standard for furniture fittings. It specifies that the holes in the side panels of a cabinet carcass are always spaced exactly 32 mm apart vertically. The standard distance from the front row of drilled holes to the front edge of the carcass is 37 mm. All modern mounting plates, shelf supports, and drawer runners are standardised to this grid.

Required Tools and Materials

To ensure professional installation without tear-out in timber or melamine coatings, the following equipment is required:

Drill or powerful cordless screwdriver
Forstner drill bit with a 35 mm diameter (with a centring point)
Wood drill bit (5 mm for Euro screws or 3 mm for pre-drilling wood screws)
Cross-head screwdriver or bit size PZ2 (Pozidriv)
Combination square or joiner's square
Bradawl for marking screw positions
Tape measure and pencil

Choosing the Right Overlay Type and Angle

Not every hinge suits every carcass construction. Choosing the appropriate hardware determines how the door sits on the cabinet. There are fundamentally three designs:

Full overlay (also known as surface overlay): When closed, the cabinet door covers almost the entire front edge of the carcass side panel, leaving only a minimal gap for clearance. Full overlay concealed hinges are used for this configuration.
Half overlay (also known as twin overlay): When two doors share a single central carcass divider, they must not block each other when opened. The door covers only half the front edge of the divider (approx. 8 mm). Half overlay concealed hinges are used here, featuring a visible crank (bend) in the hinge arm.
Inset (also known as internal overlay): The door sits entirely flush within the carcass opening, leaving the front edges of the side panels visible. For this construction, inset concealed hinges or inset door hinges are required. The hinge arm has a pronounced crank.

In addition to the overlay type, the opening angle is crucial. The standard for normal wardrobes or kitchen wall units is usually 110°. Matching 110 degree concealed hinges / cabinet hinges cover most everyday requirements. For cupboards with internal drawers, wide-angle hinges are required to swing the door completely clear of the internal opening. In these instances, 155 degree concealed hinges / cabinet hinges or 165 degree concealed hinges / cabinet hinges are used.

For modern furniture construction, integrated damping, known as soft-close, is also standard to ensure silent door closure. These can be found in the category for concealed hinges / cabinet hinges with damping (Soft Close).

Step-by-Step Guide: Fitting the Concealed Cup Hinge

The following guide covers a classic 35 mm hinge attached with a cruciform mounting plate inside the cabinet.

Step 1: Marking the Cup Hole on the Door

Place the cabinet door flat on a stable workbench with its inside face upwards. First, mark the position of the cup hole. The vertical distance from the top or bottom edge of the door to the centre of the hinge is typically between 80 mm and 120 mm.

Decisive for the final door gap is the cup margin (edge distance). This is the distance from the edge of the door to the outer rim of the 35 mm hole. Depending on the manufacturer and the desired gap, this margin is usually between 3 mm and 6 mm. To find the centre point for the drill bit, add half the cup diameter (17.5 mm) to the selected edge distance. Example with a 4 mm margin: 17.5 mm + 4.0 mm = 21.5 mm. Mark this point (21.5 mm from the edge) with the bradawl.

Step 2: Drilling the Cup Hole

Insert the 35 mm Forstner bit into the drill. Ensure the drill is held strictly perpendicular to the surface. Drill the hole. The standard drilling depth for common 35 mm concealed hinges is 12 mm to 13 mm. Measure regularly or use a depth stop to avoid drilling straight through the front panel, which is often only 16 mm or 19 mm thick. Blow away any wood shavings from the hole.

Step 3: Inserting the Hinge into the Door

Insert the hinge cup into the drilled hole. Align the hinge arm precisely at a 90° angle to the door edge using the combination square. If the hinge is twisted, the door will not mount without tension. Mark the two side fixing holes of the hinge cup using the bradawl. Pre-drill these using a 3 mm drill bit to a maximum depth of 10 mm. Secure the cup with suitable chipboard screws (e.g. 3.5 x 16 mm).

Step 4: Determining the Mounting Plate Position on the Carcass

Now, mark the position of the cruciform mounting plate on the inside of the carcass side panel. This is where System 32 applies. For a standard full overlay, the front hole for the mounting plate sits exactly 37 mm from the front edge of the carcass. The second hole sits another 32 mm further back (i.e. 69 mm from the front edge). The vertical height of these holes must match the hinge position on the door exactly, plus or minus the desired top and bottom door reveal.

Step 5: Securing the Cruciform Mounting Plate

Fasten the mounting plate to the marked positions inside the carcass. If pre-drilled 5 mm hole lines exist, use dedicated Euro screws. For un-drilled carcass sides, use standard 3.5 x 16 mm wood screws. Ensure you use the correct PZ screwdriver bit to prevent stripping the screw heads.

Step 6: Hanging and Adjusting the Door

Bring the door up to the cabinet carcass. With modern clip-on hinges, simply press the hinge arm onto the mounting plate until it audibly clicks into place. On older slide-on models, push the arm over the plate and secure it with the retaining screw.

Fine-tuning a hinge in three dimensions is like tuning an instrument — a mere quarter-turn of a screw noticeably alters the door alignment.

Lateral adjustment (side-to-side): The front screw on the hinge arm moves the door left or right, aligning the side gaps parallel.
Depth adjustment: The rear screw on the hinge arm moves the door forwards or backwards, regulating the gap between the door and the carcass front edge.
Height adjustment: Loosening the fixing screws on the cruciform mounting plate allows the door to slide vertically by approximately +/- 2 mm. Re-tighten the screws firmly once adjusted.

Common Mistakes and Expert Tips

Overestimating drilling depth: A classic DIY error is drilling right through the door front. A piece of tape wrapped around the Forstner bit (at 12 mm) serves as a visual depth guide.
Incorrect cup margin: If the edge margin is too wide, the door edge will bind against the carcass side when opened. Always follow the hinge manufacturer's technical specifications.
Wrong screwdriver bit: The adjustment screws on furniture hardware almost always feature a PZ (Pozidriv) drive. A PH (Phillips) screwdriver will slip and strip the screw head.
Missing damping: If a door slams shut loudly, it lacks a damper. Many modern hinges feature integrated soft-close mechanisms inside the cup. Older models can often be retrofitted with clip-on add-on dampers.

FAQ: Frequently Asked Questions About Concealed Hinges

What is the difference between 35 mm and 26 mm concealed cup hinges? The 35 mm hinge is the universal industry standard for cabinet doors (wardrobes, kitchen units, sideboards). A 26 mm hinge is a miniature version intended solely for very light, thin, or small doors (such as small bathroom cabinets or display units). The load capacity of a 26 mm hinge is significantly lower.

How many hinges do I need per door? This depends on the height and weight of the door (typically MDF or chipboard). For doors up to 900 mm in height, two hinges are sufficient. From 900 mm up to 1600 mm, three hinges should be fitted. Doors over 2000 mm in height (such as tall wardrobe doors) require four to five hinges to prevent warping.

When should special angled hinges be used? For standard carcasses with 90° corners, normal hinges are suitable. For corner kitchen cupboards or angled cabinet designs, specialist fittings are required. 30 degree concealed hinges / cabinet hinges or 45 degree concealed hinges / cabinet hinges are used for angled front panels. For bi-fold doors or particular corner applications, 90 degree concealed hinges / cabinet hinges or 135 degree concealed hinges / cabinet hinges are used.

Can concealed hinges be interchanged between different brands? Not always. While the 35 mm cup hole diameter is standardised, the spacing of the side fixing screw holes on the cup (the drilling pattern) and the geometry of the mounting plate vary between manufacturers (such as Hettich, Blum, Salice). When replacing hinges, it is best practice to replace both the hinge and its corresponding mounting plate together.