Fitting Hinges: Suitable for IKEA Pax Wardrobes (35 mm Cup)

June 9, 2026

A concealed hinge for the IKEA Pax system standardly requires a 35 mm diameter cup hole and is usually fitted as a full overlay with a 110° opening angle.

Anyone wishing to fit, replace, or realign wardrobe doors on a carcass will inevitably encounter the mechanics of furniture hinges. The IKEA Pax system, like most modern furniture, is based on the standardised System 32. This means that the rows of holes in the carcass are spaced 32 mm apart, and the distance from the front edge is exactly 37 mm. This grid dimension makes replacing fittings completely predictable.

In this guide, you will learn how to properly insert a hinge into a wardrobe door, attach the mounting plate to the carcass, and adjust the door gap with millimetre precision using 3D adjustment. This guide is aimed at fitters and ambitious DIY enthusiasts who value clean, technically flawless workmanship.

Required Tools and Materials

Fitting wardrobe hinges does not require complex machinery, but it does require the exact right hand tools. Using the wrong screwdriver bit is one of the most common causes of damaged screw heads.

Tools:

Cordless drill/driver (for dismantling or pilot holes)
Screwdriver with PZ2 drive (Pozidriv). Note: A PH drive (Phillips) slips on Euro screws and damages the thread profile.
Folding rule or tape measure
Pencil and try square (for aligning the hinge)
Optional: 5 mm diameter wood drill bit (if new holes need to be drilled in the carcass)

Materials:

35 mm concealed hinges (matching the desired overlay type and opening angle)
Cruciform mounting plates (usually supplied in a set with the hinge)
Euro screws (6.3 x 13 mm) for the mounting plate in the carcass
Chipboard screws (countersunk, 3.5 x 16 mm or 4 x 16 mm) for securing the cup in the door

Step-by-Step Guide: Fitting the Hinge

Installation is divided into three main phases: fixing to the carcass, inserting into the door, and finally connecting both elements. Allow about 10 to 15 minutes per door for installation and adjustment.

1. Choosing the Right Overlay Type

Before driving any screws, you must ensure that the hinge matches the wardrobe's construction. On a standard Pax wardrobe, the door rests completely on the carcass side panel when closed. For this, you strictly require a full overlay. Corresponding full overlay concealed hinges are cranked so that the edge of the door sits flush with the outer edge of the carcass.

If, on the other hand, you are mounting two doors on a single central partition (twin doors), a half overlay is used. If the door sits inside the carcass panels (with the front edges of the wardrobe visible), you need an inset hinge.

2. Attaching the Cruciform Mounting Plate to the Carcass

The chipboard carcass features pre-drilled rows of holes with a 5 mm diameter.

Determine the desired height for the hinge.
Position the cruciform mounting plate. The two fixing holes on the plate must align exactly over the holes in the row.
Fasten the plate with two Euro screws. Use the PZ2 screwdriver and tighten the screws hand-tight. Excessive torque with a cordless driver will instantly strip the thread in the chipboard, leaving the screw with no grip.

3. Inserting the Concealed Hinge into the Wardrobe Door

The inside of the wardrobe door features large, round recesses. In standard systems, this is a cup hole with a diameter of 35 mm and a depth of approximately 11.5 mm to 12.5 mm.

Press the round metal cup of the hinge into the drilled hole. It should fit snugly without applying brute force.
Align the hinge at an exact 90° angle to the door edge. Use a try square for this. If the hinge sits crooked, the door will not close properly later on.
Fix the cup in place with two chipboard screws (e.g. 3.5 x 16 mm) through the side eyelets of the cup.
Repeat this process for all hinges on the door.

Tip for added comfort: If you prefer a gentle and quiet closing motion, choose models with integrated soft close straight away. Suitable concealed hinges / wardrobe hinges with damping (Soft Close) catch the door's momentum mechanically over the final few centimetres.

4. Connecting the Door to the Carcass

Modern hinges feature tool-free clip-on technology that makes assembly substantially easier.

Bring the door up to the carcass. For tall doors, it is advisable to start in the upper third.
Hook the hinge arm onto the front bar of the cruciform mounting plate first.
Press the rear end of the hinge arm against the plate. Like a car seatbelt, the mechanism engages with an audible click.
Check that the hinge sits firmly on the plate by pulling gently. Proceed from top to bottom across all hinges on the door.

5. 3D Adjustment (Aligning the Gaps)

Once hung, the door rarely sits perfectly straight. The gap (the reveal between doors or to the carcass) should be a uniform 2 mm to 3 mm. The hinge features three adjustment screws on the arm:

Depth adjustment (distance to the carcass): This is usually the rearmost screw on the hinge arm or an eccentric cam on the mounting plate. Loosen the screw slightly, slide the door 1 mm to 2 mm forwards or backwards, and tighten the screw again. This regulates how closely the door sits against the carcass.
Height adjustment: Located on the cruciform mounting plate. Loosen the two fixing screws in the hole line minimally. The entire door can now be shifted up or down by approximately +/- 2 mm. Retighten the screws.
Lateral adjustment (gap width): This is the front screw on the hinge arm. Turning this screw clockwise moves the door edge towards the centre of the carcass (reducing the gap). Turning it anticlockwise moves the door outwards. Adjust this until the door runs parallel to the outer carcass edge and does not rub against an adjacent door.

Common Mistakes and Pro Tips

Even though System 32 simplifies many things, there are typical stumbling blocks during installation.

Mistake 1: Fitting the wrong overlay type Many fitters are puzzled when the door will not close or protrudes excessively after installation. This happens when a half overlay concealed hinge or inset concealed hinge has been installed by mistake instead of a full overlay hinge. The crank of the hinge arm is fundamentally different in these models. Always check the hinge shape before installation.

Mistake 2: Stripped screw holes in the carcass If the Euro screw is overtightened, it loses all grip in the timber substrate. The door will sag. Solution: Fill the hole with a dedicated repair plug (5 mm to 3 mm) or use a threaded insert with an M4 thread. Wood glue and matchsticks are not a durable solution for load-bearing fittings in professional installation.

Mistake 3: Collision with internal drawers If you are planning full-extension runners for internal drawers in your wardrobe, the standard opening angle of 110° (see 110 degree concealed hinges / wardrobe hinges) is often insufficient. The open door still protrudes slightly into the clear internal space of the carcass, causing the drawer to scrape against the door when pulled out. In this case, hinges with a wide opening angle must be installed (zero-protrusion hinges). 165 degree concealed hinges / wardrobe hinges are ideal for this, swinging the door completely clear of the drawer's path.

Care and Maintenance of Furniture Fittings

A high-quality concealed hinge is designed for tens of thousands of opening cycles. Nevertheless, the mechanics can shift over the years. If doors suddenly start catching, this is usually due to the natural settling of the wood or overloading the wardrobe door (e.g. from heavy mirrors on the inside). In this case, simply readjust the lateral and height settings as described in Step 5.

Avoid lubricating the joints with penetrating oils (such as WD-40). These wash out the factory-applied, viscous grease from the hinge pins and attract dust, which leads to squeaking hinges over time. Mechanical components in furniture construction are generally designed to be maintenance-free.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

How many hinges do I need for a wardrobe door? The quantity depends on the height and weight of the door (usually MDF or chipboard).

Up to 900 mm height: 2 items
900 mm - 1600 mm height: 3 items
1600 mm - 2000 mm height (e.g. Pax standard 201 cm): 4 items
From 2000 mm height (e.g. Pax 236 cm): 4 - 5 items

Can I mix hinges from different manufacturers? Technically, this is not recommended. Even though the 35 mm cup diameter is standardised, hinge arms, leverage ratios, and the position of the cruciform mounting plate differ from brand to brand. Mixing hinges on a single door creates tension, preventing clean adjustment. Always replace all hinges on a door simultaneously.

What is the difference between soft-close and push-to-open? These two mechanisms are often confused, but they are functionally mutually exclusive. Soft-close is an integrated damper within the hinge that gently pulls the door shut and decelerates it. Push-to-open (tip-on) is a push latch for handleless fronts that pushes the door open. For push-to-open, you strictly require unsprung hinges (without self-closing action), as the spring would otherwise work against the release mechanism.

What distance must the cup hole be from the door edge? The cup drilling distance (the gap from the edge of the 35 mm hole to the outer edge of the door) is typically 4 mm to 5 mm for standard hinges. This dimension is crucial for the resulting gap width and compatibility with the mounting plate.

Related Categories for Your Project

If you require additional fittings for your internal wardrobe fit-out alongside hinges, or if you are looking for a complete overview of all available hinge technologies, you will find suitable components here:

Overview of all concealed hinges / wardrobe hinges
Special angle hinges for sloping ceilings or corner units
Accessories such as cover caps and mounting plates

With the right tools, the correct overlay type, and precise 3D adjustment, fitting hinges is an accurate, logical process that ensures the functionality and longevity of your furniture.