How to Safely Remove Gas Struts: Replacing Old Flap Fittings

September 18, 2025

A worn gas strut shows itself through a loss of holding force, meaning the cabinet flap no longer remains independently in the open position.

Replacing defective struts on wall units in kitchens or mirror cabinets in bathrooms (such as Pelipal furniture) is a standard maintenance task. An intact gas strut ensures that heavy fronts can be opened in a controlled manner and held securely at the top. If the cylinder loses pressure over the years, the component must be replaced.

Removing old flap fittings requires a technical understanding of the mounting brackets' locking mechanism. If the struts are torn off with force, there is a risk of tear-out in the chipboard or the MDF front. This guide walks you through safely removing old fittings, accurately determining the replacement part dimensions, and preparing for new installation.

Time required: approx. 10 to 15 minutes per cabinet flap. Difficulty level: Medium (for experienced installers and proficient DIYers).

Required Tools and Materials

No specialist tools are needed for the professional removal of a gas strut. Standard installer equipment is sufficient:

Small slotted screwdriver (blade width approx. 2 to 3 mm) for releasing the retaining clips.
Cross-head screwdriver (PZ or PH drive, depending on the fitted screws) for removing the mounting plates.
Tape measure or calliper to determine the exact installation length in mm.
Second person or a suitably sized wooden batten to support the open cabinet flap.

Step-by-Step Guide: Safely Removing Gas Struts

Most modern struts for kitchen or bathroom cabinets are connected via a ball joint to the carcase and front mountings. This design compensates for slight angular deviations during opening. The connection is secured by a small metal spring clip.

Step 1: Secure the Cabinet Flap

Before releasing the first strut, the flap must be secured in the fully open position. When dismantled on one side, the cabinet flap acts like an unguarded guillotine – falling uncontrollably under its own weight. This can lead to injuries or rip the remaining hinges from the top panel. A second person must hold the front securely, or alternatively, a prop should be clamped between the carcase base and the flap.

Step 2: Release the Upper Retaining Spring

Always begin at the fixing mounted to the moving flap. Inspect the ball head of the strut. A U-shaped metal spring clip sits over the plastic or metal head. Insert the blade of the small slotted screwdriver into the narrow gap beneath this spring. Carefully lever the spring outwards by about 2 to 3 mm. The spring does not need to be removed completely; lifting it just enough so the internal catch clears the ball head is sufficient.

Step 3: Pull the Strut off the Ball Stud

Keep the spring tensioned with the screwdriver and pull the cylinder head of the strut sideways (at a 90-degree angle to the mounting plate) off the ball head. Do not use excessive force. If the strut cannot be pulled off, the retaining spring has not been lifted far enough.

Step 4: Release the Lower Fixing

Repeat the process on the carcase-side fixing. Lever the retaining spring there and pull the strut away from the ball stud. The old strut is now completely removed.

Step 5: Check Mounting Plates (Optional)

If you use identical gas struts as replacement parts, the round or oval mounting plates (the ball studs) can remain in the cabinet. The new strut is simply clipped onto the existing ball heads later. However, if you switch systems or if a ball stud is damaged, the plates must be removed. Undo the chipboard screws using the appropriate cross-head screwdriver. Take care not to widen the drill holes. In standard furniture, these are often drilled to System 32 (32 mm hole spacing).

Determining Key Dimensions for the Replacement Part

To find the correct replacement for defective kitchen or bathroom fittings, two essential values from the removed strut must be read or measured: the force in Newtons and the length in mm.

1. Reading the Spring Force in Newtons (N)

The force of a gas spring is stated in Newtons. This value is printed directly on the main cylinder of the strut by almost all manufacturers. Look for markings such as "250 N", "320 N", or "380 N". Choose the replacement strut with the exact same value. A strut with too little force (e.g. 150 N instead of 250 N) cannot hold the flap open. A strut with too much force (e.g. 400 N instead of 250 N) will cause the flap to snap upwards violently and make closing it very difficult, eventually damaging the hinges. For particularly heavy fronts made of solid timber or thick MDF, gas struts for heavy flaps are used.

2. Measuring the Installation Length (Extended Length)

Measure the removed strut in its fully extended state. The relevant dimension is the distance from the centre of the front ball socket to the centre of the rear ball socket. Typical lengths range from 245 mm to 268 mm. Tolerances of 1 to 2 mm are usually unproblematic, as the brackets on the cabinet side can often be slightly adjusted via slotted holes.

Visually, you can choose replacement parts to match the cabinet interior. Common choices are silver gas struts for a technical look, white gas struts for classic bathroom and kitchen cabinets, or black gas struts for modern, dark carcases.

Common Mistakes During Removal

Applying excessive force: Levering off the strut without first releasing the retaining spring inevitably breaks the plastic socket or tears the ball stud and screws out of the cabinet wall.
Wrong tool: A screwdriver that is too wide will permanently deform the delicate retaining spring.
Single-sided replacement: Always replace both struts on a flap. An old and a new strut have different pressure resistances. This leads to asymmetrical loading on the front, causing the flap to warp and the concealed hinge (the hinges on the top panel) to wear unevenly.
Incorrect installation orientation: Take note of how the strut was mounted during removal. Generally, the thick cylinder points upwards (towards the flap) and the thin piston rod points downwards (towards the carcase). This ensures that the internal oil lubricates the seal and the end-position damping works when opening.

Interaction with Other Fittings

Gas struts never work in isolation. They are part of a kinematic system. Hinges are installed on the top panel of the cabinet to enable the actual pivoting movement. When the struts lose their power, the entire weight of the open door acts as leverage against these hinges. Therefore, check the tightness of the hinges after removing the struts. If these are fitted to a sideboard for TV or a lowboard for TV (where struts often work in reverse as downward flap stays), the same physical rules apply to the mounting points.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can a defective gas strut be repaired or refilled? No. A gas strut is a sealed system pressurised with high-pressure nitrogen. Pressure loss occurs due to micro-wear on the seals. The component cannot be repaired and must be replaced entirely.

Do replacement parts from other manufacturers fit my Pelipal or kitchen cabinets? Yes. Furniture manufacturers generally do not produce their own struts; they install standardised purchased parts. As long as the installation length (centre of ball head to centre of ball head) and the force in Newtons match exactly, struts from third-party manufacturers can be used as direct replacements without issue.

How do I find the Newton rating if the print has worn off? If the value is no longer legible, the weight of the front flap (including handle) must be weighed. Using the formula `(Flap weight in kg x 10) x (Flap height in mm / 2) / Mounting distance`, the required force can be roughly calculated. In practice, it is safer to request the technical specification sheet for the specific cabinet model from the furniture manufacturer.

Why can't I compress the new strut by hand? This is entirely normal. A strut rated at, for example, 250 N requires a compressive force equivalent to roughly 25 kg. Without the leverage provided by the mounted cabinet flap, the piston rod can hardly be pushed in by hand, if at all.