How to Install Concealed Cabinet Hinges

Concealed hinges, often called Euro-style or cup hinges, provide a clean exterior finish and reliable movement for modern cabinetry. Fitting them accurately requires precise measurements and proper drilling, but with basic hand tools and a Forstner bit, any DIY enthusiast or joiner can achieve a flawless fit. This guide outlines exactly how to install concealed hinges cleanly and adjust your doors for a professional, square reveal.

Tools and Hardware Needed

Before you begin to install concealed hinges, assemble the necessary tools and hardware to ensure an accurate installation:

• Concealed hinges: Standard full overlay, half overlay, or inset hinges (many feature integrated soft-close mechanisms).
• Mounting plates: The base plates that secure directly onto the cabinet carcass.
• 35 mm Forstner bit: Required to bore the standard hinge cup hole into the back of the door.
• Drill and pilot drill bits: 2 mm or 2.5 mm bits to prevent timber splitting.
• Tape measure, combination square, and sharp pencil: For accurate marking.
• Pozi screwdriver: For manual, precise adjustments without stripping screw heads.

Step 1: Marking and Drilling the Hinge Cup Holes

The strength of a concealed hinge relies on its circular cup sitting flush inside the door panel. Precision here prevents misaligned or sagging doors.

1. Determine vertical positions: As a standard rule of thumb, mark the centre of your hinge cups roughly 75 mm to 100 mm from the top and bottom edges of the cabinet door. For taller pantry doors or heavier panels, add one or two intermediate hinges spaced evenly between them.
2. Mark the setback (distance from edge): Most standard 35 mm hinges require a cup edge distance of 3 mm to 5 mm from the door edge, making the centre of the hole typically 21.5 mm to 22.5 mm in from the side. Always verify the manufacturer drilling pattern provided with your specific hardware.
3. Bore the cup hole: Using a 35 mm Forstner bit in a drill press or a steady cordless drill, carefully bore the recess to a depth of approximately 11.5 mm to 12.5 mm. Check depth frequently or use a drill stop to ensure you do not drill entirely through the front face of the door.

Step 2: Fitting the Hinges into the Door

Once the recesses are clean and free of wood chips, seat the hinge cups into the holes. Use a straight edge or a steel rule across the hinge bodies to align them parallel with the door edge. Once squared, drill shallow pilot holes for the retaining screws and secure each hinge firmly into the timber using wood screws.

Step 3: Positioning and Securing the Mounting Plates

Concealed hinges attach to the cabinet carcass via mounting plates. On pre-drilled flat-pack carcasses, these often align with standard 32 mm system line-boring holes (typically set back 37 mm from the front edge for overlay doors).

If fitting onto a blank cabinet side, measure the exact vertical distance between your hinge centres on the door and transfer these heights onto the internal face of the cabinet carcass. Mark the 37 mm setback line, drill pilot holes, and screw the mounting plates firmly in place.

Step 4: Hanging and Adjusting the Doors

Most modern fittings feature a clip-on design, allowing you to simply press the hinge arm onto the carcass mounting plate until it clicks into place. If using slide-on models, slide the hinge arm over the plate screw and tighten it down.

Once hung, use the three built-in adjustment screws on the hinge body to align the door:

• Side-to-side (lateral) adjustment: Turning the front screw shifts the door left or right to balance the gaps between adjacent doors.
• Height (vertical) adjustment: Loosen the mounting plate screws slightly to slide the door up or down, then re-tighten.
• Depth adjustment: The rear screw moves the door closer to or further from the carcass face, ensuring the door sits flush when closed without binding.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many hinges do I need per cabinet door?

Doors under 900 mm in height and under 5 kg generally require two hinges. Doors between 900 mm and 1600 mm (or up to 10 kg) require three hinges, while larger pantry doors up to 2000 mm often require four or more to prevent warping and spread the load evenly.

Can I mix soft-close and standard hinges on the same door?

Yes, on lightweight doors using two hinges, fitting a soft-close hinge at the top and a standard unsprung or sprung hinge at the bottom often provides sufficient damping. For larger doors, standard practice is to use matching soft-close units throughout.