How to Install Concealed Cabinet Hinges

August 25, 2026

Concealed hinges, often called Euro-style or cup hinges, provide a clean, modern aesthetic by remaining completely hidden when cabinet doors are shut. Whether you are building bespoke cabinetry or upgrading existing cupboards with modern soft-close concealed hinge options, achieving a precise fit is essential. Proper alignment ensures smooth operation, prevents door sag, and eliminates unsightly gaps. This guide covers the essential tools and techniques needed for successful concealed hinge installation.

Tools and Materials Required

Before beginning your project, gather the appropriate equipment. Having the right tools ensures accurate drilling and prevents damage to your door fronts:

Concealed hinges and matching mounting plates: Ensure you have chosen the correct overlay type (full overlay, half overlay, or inset).
35 mm Forstner bit: The standard size for modern cabinet hinge cups.
Drill or pillar drill: A pillar drill offers the greatest depth control, but a handheld combi drill with a depth stop works well.
Tape measure and combination square: Essential for accurate marking.
Bradawl or centre punch: To create pilot dimples so drill bits do not wander.
Screwdriver: Typically a Pozi drive (PZ2) for hinge adjustments and fixings.
Wood screws: Usually 15 mm to 16 mm gauge-appropriate screws for the door and carcass.

Measuring and Marking the Cup Hole Positions

Accurate marking is the foundation of flawless concealed hinges installation. Standard cabinet doors typically require hinges positioned 75 mm to 100 mm from the top and bottom edges of the door.

Mark vertical distance: Measure down from the top edge and up from the bottom edge of the door, drawing a horizontal line across the edge with a square.
Set the backset distance: Mark the centre point of the 35 mm cup hole. For most standard hinges, the edge of the hole sits between 3 mm and 5 mm from the door edge, making the centre point approximately 21 mm to 22.5 mm in from the edge (radius of 17.5 mm plus the edge margin). Always verify your specific hinge specifications.
Punch the centre: Use a bradawl to press a small indent at the intersection point to guide the Forstner bit's centre spur.

Drilling the Hinge Cup Recess

Drilling the 35 mm cup hole requires care, as standard cabinet doors are usually 18 mm thick, and cup holes typically require a depth of 11.5 mm to 12.5 mm.

Set your drill depth stop carefully. If using a handheld drill without a built-in stop, wrap a piece of masking tape around the Forstner bit at the required depth. Hold the drill perfectly perpendicular to the door face and drill at a moderate speed, clearing wood shavings regularly to prevent overheating. Stop immediately when the depth marker is reached.

Fitting the Hinges and Mounting Plates

Once the cup recesses are clean and free of debris, insert the hinge cups into the holes. Align the straight arm of the hinge perfectly square to the edge of the door using a ruler or straight edge placed across both hinge bodies. Pre-drill small pilot holes for the retaining screws and secure the hinge cups to the door.

Next, mount the base plates onto the cabinet carcass:

For full overlay doors on standard 18 mm carcasses, mounting plate fixing holes are traditionally set 37 mm back from the front edge of the carcass.
Mark the height on the carcass corresponding to the centre line of your door hinges.
Secure the mounting plates using appropriate wood screws or Euro screws.
Offer the door up to the cabinet and clip or slide the hinge arms onto the carcass mounting plates until they engage securely.

Fine-Tuning and Hinge Adjustment

One of the greatest benefits of concealed hinges is 3-way adjustability, allowing you to align doors perfectly after hanging:

Side-to-side (Lateral): Turning the front adjustment screw moves the door left or right, correcting the vertical gap between adjacent doors.
Height (Vertical): Loosening the mounting plate screws allows the entire door to slide up or down to align with the top of the carcass.
Depth (In/Out): Adjusting the rear screw alters the gap between the door and the cabinet carcass, ensuring the door sits flush without binding against the frame.