How to Install Concealed Cabinet Hinges

August 25, 2026

Concealed hinges, often referred to as European or cup hinges, provide a clean, modern aesthetic by remaining hidden from view when cabinet doors are closed. Beyond their neat appearance, they offer straightforward three-way adjustment, allowing you to align door fronts perfectly. Whether you are replacing worn hardware or building custom kitchen units, mastering a reliable hidden hinges installation method ensures smooth, long-lasting performance.

Choosing the Right Hinge Configuration

Before picking up any tools, verify the type of hinge required for your cabinet design. Concealed hinges are categorised primarily by how the door sits relative to the cabinet carcass:

Full Overlay: The door sits directly in front of the cabinet side panel, covering virtually the entire thickness of the carcass edge (usually leaving a 1–2 mm reveal).
Half Overlay: Common on shared central divider panels, where two adjacent doors meet on a single 18 mm carcass wall, each covering half the edge.
Inset: The door sits entirely flush inside the carcass frame, exposing the outer edges of the cabinet box.

Tools and Equipment Required

A successful hidden hinge installation relies on precision drilling and accurate measurements. Before starting, gather the following kit:

35 mm Forstner drill bit or specialised hinge-boring bit
Cordless drill or pillar drill
Combination square, steel rule, and sharp pencil
Drill depth stop (or masking tape wrapped around the bit)
Pozidriv screwdriver (or low-torque cordless driver)
2 mm or 2.5 mm pilot drill bit

Step-by-Step Installation Guide

1. Mark the Cup Positions

Lay the cabinet door flat on a clean, stable work surface. Standard practice is to position hinges approximately 70 mm to 100 mm from the top and bottom edges of the door. For taller doors over 900 mm, add a third hinge in the centre to prevent bowing.

Mark the drilling centre offset from the outer edge of the door. For most standard 35 mm concealed hinges, the distance from the edge of the door to the edge of the cup hole (the tab distance) is typically between 3 mm and 5 mm. Check your hinge specifications to confirm the exact centre distance, which is usually 21.5 mm to 22.5 mm from the door edge.

2. Drill the 35 mm Cup Holes

Set your depth stop to match the depth of the hinge cup, which is typically 11.5 mm to 12.5 mm. When using standard 18 mm MDF or MFC doors, take extreme care not to drill through the face of the door.

Hold the Forstner bit perpendicular to the surface. Drill slowly and steadily, clearing wood shavings regularly to avoid overheating. Once the cup recesses are clean and flat-bottomed, insert the hinge cups to verify they sit completely flush.

3. Fix the Hinges to the Door

Align the hinge arms so they are square (90 degrees) to the door edge. Use a straight edge held across the back of both hinge bodies to ensure they sit parallel. Pre-drill pilot holes for the cup-fixing screws using a 2 mm bit, then drive in the supplied wood screws firmly without over-tightening.

4. Mount the Carcass Plates

On standard system 32 carcasses, pre-drilled 5 mm line-boring holes are often present 37 mm back from the front edge. If drilling from scratch, transfer your hinge centre marks from the door onto the carcass side wall, allowing for any planned vertical overhang.

Secure the mounting plates to the carcass using appropriate wood screws or Euro screws. Clip or slide the hinge arms onto the mounting plates until they engage securely.

Fine-Tuning with 3D Adjustment

One of the main advantages of modern concealed hinges is their built-in adjustment system. Use a manual Pozidriv screwdriver to fine-tune the door alignment:

Side-to-Side (Lateral): Turn the front adjustment screw on the hinge arm to shift the door left or right, evening out gaps between adjacent units.
Height (Vertical): Loosen the mounting plate fixing screws (or turn the central plate cam) to adjust the door up or down, then re-tighten.
Depth: Adjust the rear screw on the hinge arm to bring the door closer to or further away from the cabinet carcass, ensuring it shuts flush without binding.