How to Mark and Drill Hinges Correctly: Step-by-Step Guide

Correctly marking and drilling cabinet hinges requires precise dimensions for the cup distance on the door front and exact positioning of the cruciform mounting plate within the carcase system grid.

The installation of furniture doors stands or falls with drilling accuracy. A pilot hole offset by just a single millimetre can lead to uneven reveal gaps or cause the door to bind against the carcase. In modern furniture construction, the concealed cup hinge is the absolute standard. It not only ensures a clean gap pattern but also provides three-dimensional adjustability after installation.

This guide is aimed at fitters, joiners, and ambitious furniture makers. It covers exact drilling dimensions in millimetres, the selection of the correct tools, and step-by-step installation on the workpiece. The time required per door (with two fittings) is around 15 to 20 minutes when properly prepared.

Preparation: The Door Overlay Determines the Dimensions

Before taking out the rule, the construction method of the cabinet must be clear. The position of the door relative to the carcase defines which hinge type is used. This directly affects the choice of mounting plate and the drilling point.

1. Full overlay: When closed, the door rests almost completely over the carcase side edge (also called standard overlay). Full overlay concealed hinges are used here. They feature a straight crank (0 mm).
2. Half overlay / twin overlay: Two doors share a single central carcase partition. Each door overlays only half of the side panel edge. The fitting features a medium crank (typically 9.5 mm). Half overlay concealed hinges are used for this purpose.
3. Inset: The door sits flush inside the carcase openings. The edges of the carcase sides remain fully visible. The fitting is heavily cranked (typically 16 mm). Inset concealed hinges are strictly required here.

Regardless of the overlay type, the drilled hinge cup usually has a diameter of 35 mm. Smaller variants with 26 mm only appear on very light or narrow profile doors. For standard furniture fronts made of chipboard or MDF, 35 mm concealed hinges are the norm.

Required Tools and Materials

Sharp tools are essential for clean drilling without tear-out.

• Folding rule or precision steel ruler
• Try square
• Sharp pencil and marking awl (bradawl)
• Cordless drill or pillar drill
• Forstner bit (Ø 35 mm) with centre point
• Wood drill bit (Ø 3 mm for pre-drilling fixing screws or Ø 5 mm for Euro screws)
• Chipboard screws (countersunk, typically 3.5 x 15 mm or 4 x 16 mm, drive PZ or TX)
• Matching hinges, optionally as concealed hinges / cabinet hinges with soft close
• Cruciform mounting plates

Step-by-Step Guide: Marking and Drilling Concealed Hinges

The following guide assumes a standard door (height up to 900 mm) requiring two fittings.

Step 1: Determine the Vertical Position on the Door Front

Place the furniture door flat on a clean workbench with the inside facing upwards. First, establish the vertical height of the hinges. A proven standard dimension for the distance from the top and bottom edge of the door to the centre of the cup hole is 100 mm. Using the try square, draw a horizontal line at 100 mm from the top and 100 mm from the bottom. For very tall doors (e.g. wardrobes), additional fittings must be distributed symmetrically in between.

Step 2: Calculate and Mark the Cup Distance (Dimension C)

Next, determine the distance from the side edge of the door. This is where the so-called "Dimension C" comes into play. Dimension C refers to the distance from the door edge to the edge of the 35 mm cup hole. Depending on the manufacturer and desired reveal gap, this dimension usually ranges between 3 mm and 7 mm. Standard practice is often 4 mm or 5 mm.

To find the centre point for the Forstner bit, add the radius of the cup (17.5 mm) to Dimension C. Example with Dimension C = 4 mm: 17.5 mm + 4 mm = 21.5 mm. Measure exactly 21.5 mm inwards from the side edge along your horizontal lines and mark this point with a cross.

Step 3: Centre-Punch and Drill

Lightly mark the drawn cross using a bradawl. A Forstner bit without a secure starting point will slip across smooth melamine surfaces like an ice skate on fresh ice; centre-punching prevents the bit from wandering.

Position the 35 mm Forstner bit accurately. Drill vertically with moderate pressure. The drilling depth for standard cup hinges is generally 11.5 mm to 12.5 mm. Attention: With a standard door thickness of 16 mm, very little material remains. Drill in stages, clear out the wood chips, and check the depth by test-fitting the hinge. The cup must sit flush with the door surface.

Step 4: Insert and Screw the Hinge

Insert the fittings into the drilled holes. Place a long spirit level or a straight edge against the back of the hinge arms to ensure both fittings are aligned at an exact 90-degree angle to the door edge. Mark the small fixing holes to the left and right of the cup. Pre-drill these with a 3 mm wood drill bit to a maximum depth of 10 mm. Then secure the fittings using the chipboard screws.

Step 5: Mark the Cruciform Mounting Plate on the Carcase

With the door prepared, move on to the carcase. This follows the System 32, the international standard in cabinet construction. The front line of holes for the mounting plate is always located exactly 37 mm from the front edge of the carcase (for overlay doors).

To determine the exact height on the carcase:

1. Position the door against the carcase (taking into account the planned bottom reveal gap, e.g. 2 mm clearance underneath).
2. Transfer the centre line of the hinge arm onto the carcase side panel.
3. Draw a horizontal line at this height on the inside of the carcase.
4. Measure 37 mm inwards from the front edge and mark the intersection.
5. The drilling spacing for the mounting plate is standard 32 mm. Mark the drilling points on the 37 mm vertical line at 16 mm above and 16 mm below your centre line.

Drill the holes (Ø 5 mm for Euro screws or Ø 3 mm for wood screws) and screw the mounting plates firmly in place.

Step 6: Hang and Adjust the Door

Clip the hinge arms onto the mounting plates (with clip-on mechanisms) or slide them on and tighten the fixing screw. Now carry out the 3D adjustment:

• Depth adjustment: Moves the door closer to or further away from the carcase (reveal gap).
• Height adjustment: Regulated via the elongated slots on the cruciform mounting plate (typically +/- 2 mm).
• Lateral adjustment: Adjusts the gap between adjacent doors or the side overlay.

Depending on the desired opening angle in the room, different models are used. For standard doors, 110-degree concealed / cabinet hinges are commonly selected. If the door needs to open wider, such as when using internal drawers, 155-degree concealed / cabinet hinges are the correct technical choice.

Avoiding Common Errors in Hinge Installation

Even experienced trade professionals can make mistakes if focus slips. The most frequent sources of error include:

• Incorrect Dimension C selected: If the cup distance is too small, the door will bind against the carcase edge when opening. If it is too large, the door will not close fully or the lateral adjustment will not suffice to close the reveal gap.
• Hinges not screwed square: If the hinge arm is twisted when fastened to the door, it will remain under tension. The door will be stiff to operate and the mechanical components will wear out rapidly.
• Confusing soft close with push-to-open: A fitting with integrated soft close actively pulls the door shut over the final few centimetres. It strictly requires a furniture handle. In contrast, a push-to-open system (tip-on) requires a hinge without a self-closing catch (unsprung), otherwise the door cannot be pushed open by the touch latch. These systems must never be combined.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

How many hinges do I need per cabinet door? The quantity depends on the weight and height of the front. As a rule of thumb:

• Up to 900 mm height / 4 to 6 kg: 2 hinges
• Up to 1600 mm height / 12 to 17 kg: 3 hinges
• Up to 2000 mm height / 17 to 22 kg: 4 hinges
• Up to 2400 mm height / from 22 kg: 5 hinges

What is the difference between a concealed cup hinge and a traditional butt hinge? A concealed cup hinge / cabinet hinge is a specialised form of hidden furniture hinge. It consists of a cup recessed into the door and an articulated arm mounted to the carcase. Unlike traditional surface-mounted hinges (e.g. piano hinges), it remains invisible when the door is closed and offers smooth three-way adjustability.

Can I use overlay fittings for inset doors? No. The crank of the articulated arm is mechanically matched to the specific overlay type. For doors sitting flush inside the carcase side panels, you must strictly use inset door concealed hinges; otherwise, the door will bind when opened.

Are there fittings for special angles? Yes, for corner cabinets or angled carcases where the angle deviates from the standard 90 degrees. Angled hinges are available for these applications. For example, if the door runs flush in line with the carcase (such as on a blind panel), an angle of 90 degrees to the mounting plate is required.