Assembling the NOAH Highboard — Assembly Instructions
Assembling the NOAH highboard requires systematic preparation, the right tools, and the exact alignment of hinges to guarantee a stable and visually flawless installation.
A piece of furniture from the NOAH - series stands out with its clean lines and well-thought-out layout. Especially in narrow rooms such as the hallway or as an addition to the living room, these cabinets score highly due to their shallow depth of often just 30 cm to 35 cm. Regardless of whether you are assembling a compact model such as the NOAH 80, tackling the medium variant NOAH 120, or setting up the wide NOAH 200 – the fundamental assembly principle remains identical.
These instructions guide you systematically through the assembly process, from sorting the individual chipboard components right through to fine-tuning the doors.
Preparation and Required Tools
A smooth assembly starts with organising the workspace. Lay the cardboard boxes flat on the floor; they serve as an ideal underlay to avoid scratches on the components or the floor. Sort all wooden parts by size and lay out the hardware fittings clearly.
The following tools are required for assembly:
- Cross-head screwdriver (size PZ2 for most furniture fittings)
- Rubber mallet (for gently tapping in the wooden dowels)
- Cordless screwdriver (optional, set to a low torque setting)
- Tape measure or folding rule
- Spirit level
- Drill and suitable masonry drill bit (for wall mounting)
Step-by-Step Assembly Instructions
1. Preparation of the Side Panels and Base
Assembly begins by inserting the connecting fittings into the side panels, the base, and the top panel. Tap the wooden dowels carefully into the provided end-face holes using the rubber mallet. Ensure that the dowels protrude by approximately half their length.
Next, screw the metal connecting bolts of the cam lock fasteners into the pre-drilled holes with a diameter of 5 mm. Only screw them in until the thread has fully disappeared into the wood – do not overtighten, as this can tear out the material.
2. Assembling the Carcass
Now join the base panel to the side panels. Bring the components together so that the wooden dowels and bolts slide into the corresponding matching holes. Insert the circular housings of the cam lock fasteners into the large holes (usually 15 mm) in the adjacent panel. The small arrow on the housing must point towards the bolt. Turn the housing clockwise by approximately 180° using the screwdriver until the joint pulls tight.
Repeat this process for any partition walls and finally for the top panel. The carcass now forms the load-bearing framework of the furniture, upon which all subsequent steps are built.
3. Attaching and Aligning the Back Panel
The back panel gives the highboard its lateral stability. Lay the carcass face-down on the floor. Before fixing the back panel, the carcass must be strictly squared. To do this, measure both diagonals of the cabinet (from corner to corner) using the tape measure. If both measurements are identical to the millimetre, the carcass is square.
Now nail or screw the back panel securely into place. Start at one corner, work along one long side, and then secure the remaining sides. The spacing between nails should be around 100 mm to 150 mm.
4. Fitting the Feet or Plinth
Fit the furniture feet or plinth to the underside of the base panel while the cabinet is still lying down. Use the supplied wood screws (often 3.5 x 16 mm) for this. After fitting the feet, the highboard can be raised upright. With wider models, always work as a pair to minimise leverage strain on the joints.
5. Fitting Hinges and Doors
The doors of the series are mounted using a cup hinge. Press the round cup of the hinge into the 35 mm drilled recess on the inside of the door. Align the hinge at a 90° angle to the door edge and screw it in place.
At the same time, screw the cruciform mounting plate onto the inside of the cabinet walls. Now offer the door up to the cabinet and click or slide the hinge arm onto the mounting plate. Tighten the fixing screw.
6. Inserting the Shelves
Insert the metal or plastic shelf supports into the pre-drilled holes in the side panels. Most modern furniture uses the System 32 standard for this, a standardised hole line spaced at 32 mm intervals that allows you flexible heights for the shelves. Place the shelves onto the supports.
Strictly Required: Wall Mounting (Anti-Tip Safety)
A slim piece of furniture always carries a risk of tipping over, especially when the upper compartments are loaded or doors are opened. A highboard with a depth of 30 cm or 35 cm must therefore be securely anchored to the wall.
Use the supplied anti-tip bracket. Drill a suitable hole in the wall, insert a wall plug suitable for your masonry, and screw the bracket securely to both the wall and the top panel of the furniture.
Adjusting the Doors: Achieving Perfect Gap Alignment
After standing the unit upright and loading it, the doors often hang slightly crooked. Every concealed cup hinge features adjustment screws for 3D adjustment:
- Depth adjustment: Loosening the rear screw on the hinge arm slightly allows the door to be moved forwards or backwards by 2 mm to 3 mm. This is how you set the gap to the carcass.
- Lateral adjustment: The front screw on the hinge arm tilts the door. Turning it clockwise moves the door edge towards the centre of the carcass. This allows you to align the gaps between two doors completely parallel.
- Height adjustment: Loosen both screws on the cruciform mounting plate on the side panel slightly to shift the entire door up or down by a few millimetres.
Common Assembly Pitfalls
- Using the wrong screw length: Pay meticulous attention to which screws are intended for the hinges and which are for the handles. Using a screw that is too long on a hinge will pierce through the outer face of the door.
- Back panel not square: If the diagonals were not exactly equal before nailing the back panel, the furniture unit will stand askew. The doors cannot be adjusted correctly later, no matter how much you turn the hinge screws.
- Cam locks do not tighten: If the connector cannot be turned, the bolt is not seated deeply enough within the housing. Press the wooden panels together more firmly.
FAQ – Frequently Asked Questions
How long does it take to assemble the NOAH highboard? For a compact model, a DIYer should allow approximately 1.5 to 2 hours. Wider variants or versions with multiple drawers take around 2.5 to 3 hours.
Can I assemble the highboard on my own? Preparing the individual components and inserting the fittings can easily be done alone. For joining the carcass together and lifting the finished unit upright, a second person is strongly recommended to prevent damage to the joints.
Do the instructions apply to all colour variants? Yes, the structural design is identical. Whether you are assembling a Highboard Black with a matt finish or a wood-effect model such as Wotan Oak, it has no effect on the assembly steps, the tools, or the hardware fittings used.
Why do the doors not close flush? This is almost always due to an uneven floor or a lack of fine adjustment. Check with a spirit level whether the furniture unit is standing completely level. Compensate for unevenness under the feet and then adjust the hinges using the adjustment screws.
--- Further hardware, suitable fittings, and various mounting solutions can be found in our range of fittings for Highboards.