Overlay vs Inset Hinges — Concealed Hinges and Application Types Compared

April 8, 2026

A full overlay hinge lets the cabinet door rest in front of the carcass, whilst an inset hinge positions the door flush between the side walls of the unit.

In professional cabinet making, choosing the right application type determines not only the look of the front, but also the exact calculation of cut sizes and the correct installation of fittings. The concealed hinge (cup hinge) is the industry standard in modern furniture construction. However, concealed hinges vary significantly. The geometry of the hinge arm dictates how the door behaves when opening and where it sits when closed.

This technical comparison examines the mechanical and structural differences between overlay and inset doors, highlighting what to consider when planning reveal gaps.

What Does Full Overlay Mean?

In a full overlay construction, the cabinet door rests directly over the front edges of the carcass side walls when closed. Viewed from the front, the door covers the carcass sides almost entirely. Only a narrow gap, known as the reveal, remains so that the door does not catch on the adjacent cabinet wall or neighbouring door during opening.

In hardware terminology, this configuration uses a full overlay hinge. Full overlay concealed hinges feature a straight, uncranked hinge arm. This design allows the door to extend fully across the edge of the carcass side.

Technically, this is the most common mounting style for modern kitchen and wardrobe units, enabling a continuous, seamless front appearance without visible carcass edges. The standard cup drilling diameter in the wood for these fittings is typically 35 mm concealed hinges.

What Does Inset (Flush Mount) Mean?

An inset door requires a completely different design approach. Here, the door does not sit in front of the carcass; instead, it is set flush between the side panels, base, and top panel of the cabinet. The front edges of the cabinet carcass remain fully visible from the front, framing the door like a puzzle piece.

This construction requires an inset hinge. Inset concealed hinges feature a heavily cranked (bent) hinge arm. This deep bend shifts the pivot point of the door inward so that the front does not collide with the inner side wall when opening.

Planning for inset concealed door hinges requires higher cutting precision. The door must be manufactured to the exact internal dimensions of the carcass, minus a perimeter gap typically between 2 mm and 3 mm.

The Special Case: Half Overlay (Twin Mounting)

When two doors must be mounted to a single shared partition panel (for example, in a four-door wardrobe), the space on a standard 19 mm thick chipboard panel is not sufficient for two full overlay doors.

In this case, a half overlay hinge (also known as a twin or dual application hinge) is used. Half overlay concealed hinges feature a half-cranked arm. It allows each door to cover only half of the carcass edge, leaving exact space alongside for the neighbouring door.

Key Differences: A Direct Comparison

The choice between overlay and inset affects the entire construction process. The following technical parameters distinguish the two systems:

Cranking of the hinge arm:
Full overlay: Uncranked (straight arm). The door is shifted outwards as far as possible.
Inset: Heavily cranked. The arm features a pronounced bend to position the door inwards inside the carcass.
Reveal calculation (gap size):
Full overlay: The reveal is calculated at the outer edges to prevent collisions with adjacent cabinets.
Inset: The reveal must be calculated all around the door (top, bottom, left, right), as the door is completely enclosed by the carcass walls.
Door cutting dimensions:
Full overlay: External carcass dimensions minus reveal gaps.
Inset: Internal carcass dimensions (clear opening) minus reveal gaps.
Mounting plate position:
Full overlay: The mounting plate is usually placed at the standard distance of 37 mm from the front carcass edge (System 32).
Inset: The mounting plate must be moved further back into the carcass by the thickness of the door plus the reveal gap. For a 19 mm thick door with a 2 mm reveal, the mounting plate is set back by 21 mm from the standard position.

Opening Angles and Soft-Close Mechanisms

Regardless of the application type, both systems can be equipped with various opening angles. The standard angle for conventional cabinets is 110°. A 110-degree concealed cabinet hinge provides ample clearance for everyday shelf access.

However, if internal drawers or pull-outs are fitted behind the door, this angle is insufficient, as the opened door would obstruct the drawer runner path. In these cases, wide-angle hinges are required. A 155-degree concealed cabinet hinge ensures the door swings completely clear of the internal carcass opening (zero protrusion).

Modern fittings also feature integrated damping. Soft-close concealed cabinet hinges catch the door just before it closes, pulling it shut smoothly and silently against the carcass. This soft-close mechanism is available for both overlay and inset applications.

Which Application Type Suits Which Purpose?

The choice of mounting style is primarily an aesthetic decision, but it carries functional consequences.

When should you choose a full overlay?

For modern, minimalist furniture designs where a clean, uniform front surface without visible carcass edges is desired.
In fitted kitchen runs where multiple cabinets are installed side by side.
When maximum internal cabinet space is required, as the door sits in front of the carcass and takes up no internal depth.

When should you choose an inset mount?

For traditional furniture, solid wood cabinets, or display units where the surrounding carcass frame is intended as an exposed design feature.
For standalone, bespoke pieces of furniture.
When a refined, crafted look is desired. Keep in mind that usable internal cabinet depth is reduced by the thickness of the door.

Adjustment and Fine-Tuning

Whether using full overlay or inset hinges: after installation, the reveal gaps must be aligned precisely. Modern concealed hinges feature 3D adjustment. Adjustment screws on the hinge arm allow you to adjust the door in three directions:

Depth adjustment: Regulates the gap between the door and the front edge of the carcass.
Lateral (side) adjustment: Adjusts the width of the reveal and aligns the door parallel to the frame.
Height adjustment: Raises or lowers the door (typically via elongated mounting plate slots or an eccentric cam).

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Can I use a full overlay concealed hinge for an inset door? No. The movement kinematics and arm cranking are completely different. An uncranked hinge would force the door against the inner carcass wall immediately when opening, causing it to jam. Inset doors strictly require a heavily cranked hinge.

What does hinge cranking mean? Cranking describes the offset bend in the metal hinge arm. A straight arm (uncranked) is used for full overlay doors. A bent arm (half-cranked or heavily cranked) repositions the pivot point and is required for half overlay or inset applications.

How do I calculate the cup drilling hole for a concealed hinge? The standard diameter for the hinge cup hole is 35 mm. The drilling depth (cup depth) is typically between 11.5 mm and 13 mm. The drilling distance (the distance from the door edge to the edge of the 35 mm hole) varies depending on the desired reveal and hinge model, but is typically between 3 mm and 6 mm.

Do I need to change the mounting plate position for inset doors? Yes. For full overlay doors, the mounting plate is usually installed 37 mm from the front edge of the carcass. For inset doors, this dimension must be shifted further back by adding the thickness of the door panel plus the desired setback (reveal gap).