Replacement Parts & Compatible Fittings for Hettich — Overview

Compatible replacement parts for furniture fittings are primarily defined by standardised hole patterns such as System 32, a 35 mm hinge cup diameter, and exact length and force specifications in millimetres and Newtons.

Replacement Parts Suitable for Hettich: The Technical Baseline

Mechanical components in furniture construction are subject to constant wear and tear. When hinges become loose, drawers stick, or lift-up flaps no longer stay open, it is time for a replacement. In practice, it is rarely necessary to use the exact same brand. What truly matters for functionality is the mechanical geometry. Anyone looking for an alternative to Hettich only needs to know the specific dimensions and mounting points of the defective part.

Replacing a fitting is much like changing a transmission in a workshop: as long as the fixing points, installation dimensions, and force transmission match precisely, the mechanics will run smoothly again. Furnica offers a wide range of fittings that serve as replacements for Hettich and integrate seamlessly into existing carcasses.

What to Look For Regarding Compatibility: Dimensions and Hole Patterns

The industry works with standardised grid dimensions. When replacing fittings that need to be compatible with Hettich, check these three core parameters:

• Hole rows: Almost all modern cabinets are based on System 32. This means the distance between the drill holes in the side panel is exactly 32 mm. The standard distance from the front row of holes to the front edge of the carcass is 37 mm.
• Cup drilling: For concealed hinges, the cup diameter usually measures 35 mm. Less frequently, typically on very light or small doors, 26 mm is used. The depth of the hole is typically 11.5 mm to 12.5 mm.
• Load capacity: Runners and dampers must be matched to the weight of the furniture components. Here, values in kilograms for load capacity and Newtons for spring force are what matter.

Suitable Alternatives for Defective Fittings

Depending on the component, the relevant technical specifications that must be observed when retrofitting or replacing vary.

Replacing Gas Struts for Lift-Up Flaps

If wall cabinets drop down when opened, the gas strut has lost its holding force. Models of the Lift-O-Mat type are frequently installed here. To find a suitable replacement, the force rating on the cylinder is crucial. If it says 380 N, for example, you strictly require a strut with 380 Newtons. Any deviation means the flap will either not close or slam open uncontrollably.

Also measure the total length in the extended state (from ball joint centre to ball joint centre) as well as the stroke. Suitable flap fittings can be replaced by simply unclipping the retaining clips on the ball heads. For heavy MDF or solid wood fronts, you can also find gas dampers for heavy flaps with us, which can be fitted as a direct replacement.

Retrofitting Hinges and Concealed Cup Hinges

When replacing hinges, the opening angle and the overlay type must be identical. A standard cup hinge usually opens to 95° or 110°. Special cabinet designs require different values: a corner cabinet often requires a 45° hinge, whilst cabinets with internal drawers require wide-angle hinges with 135° or 165°.

Check the door overlay type before replacing:

• Full overlay: The door rests completely over the carcass side panel.
• Half overlay: Two doors share a single central carcass panel (half overlay).
• Inset: The door sits flush inside the carcass frame.

Many modern hinges feature integrated damping (soft-close). This slows the door down over the final few centimetres. When replacing old hinges that lack this function, you can easily install soft-close models, provided the cross mounting plate fits the existing 32 mm hole pattern.

Renewing Drawer Runners

A sticking drawer runner is often the result of worn ball bearings or bent tracks. If you are looking for runners compatible with Hettich systems, measure the nominal length of the old runner (usually in 50 mm increments such as 400 mm, 450 mm, 500 mm).

A distinction is made between two extension types: a full extension runner can be pulled 100% out of the carcass, granting access to the very back of the drawer. A single extension stops at around 75%. If there is sufficient space in the carcass, upgrading is possible at any time. We offer corresponding full extension drawer runners in various lengths.

For concealed mechanics beneath the drawer base, undermount drawer runners are used. Pay close attention here to the exact position of the locking clips. If you wish to increase closing comfort, choose soft-close drawer runners.

If an entire cabinet section needs restructuring, for instance with a 60 cm kitchen cabinet pull-out, using complete drawer systems that bundle drawer sides, back brackets, and front fixings in a kit is recommended.

Joining Worktops and Carcasses

For a sturdy joint between kitchen worktops, special joint connectors are used. If old connectors are corroded, you can replace them with standard worktop fittings. The cutout on the underside of the worktop standardly measures 35 mm in diameter, and the threaded bolt requires an open-ended spanner (usually size 10) for tightening.

Installation and Retrofitting: Practical Replacement

Replacing compatible fittings requires precise work, but no specialist tools.

Required tools:

• Cordless screwdriver
• Crosshead screwdriver (PZ2)
• Tape measure or calliper
• Bradawl or awl (for new screw holes)

Step-by-step hinge replacement:

1. Loosen the screw on the mounting plate or release the clip mechanism to remove the door.
2. Unscrew the old hinge from the cup hole in the door.
3. Insert the new hinge into the 35 mm hole. Ensure it is aligned precisely perpendicular to the door edge.
4. Fix the hinge using suitable chipboard screws (usually 3.5 x 16 mm) or the pre-fitted Euro screws.
5. Click the door onto the mounting plate in the carcass and adjust the door alignment using the adjustment screws (height, depth, lateral overlay).

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) Regarding Compatible Replacement Parts

How do I find the part number on the hinge? Many hinge arms or cup holes have multi-digit numbers stamped into them. These designations are often the manufacturer's internal casting numbers and not reliable part numbers. Instead, measure the cup diameter, check the overlay type, and verify the opening angle. These three parameters are sufficient to find a compatible alternative.

Can I fit a gas strut with more force? No. The force in Newtons must match the weight of the flap exactly. If the strut is too weak, the flap will fall shut. If it is too strong (e.g. 450 N instead of the required 380 N), the flap can only be closed with excessive force, and the hinges will be damaged by the constant pressure or ripped out of the chipboard.

How do I adjust the damping on new hinges? Many modern hinges with integrated soft-close have a small switch on the hinge cup. Here, the damping can be activated or deactivated. For lightweight doors, it is often sufficient for only one of the two hinges to have damping enabled, allowing the door to close quickly yet softly.

What is the difference between soft-close and push-to-open? These two systems are mechanical opposites. Soft-close brakes a closing drawer or door and pulls it gently shut. Push-to-open (or tip-on) is used for handleless fronts; pressing the front releases a spring that pushes the door or drawer open. Both systems cannot be combined in a single runner on standard drawer runners.