Retrofitting Push-to-Open Fittings for IKEA Besta

A push-to-open mechanism allows handleless opening of furniture fronts with light pressure, but it strictly requires unsprung hinges without self-closing mechanisms or specially matched drawer runners.

When assembling or modifying modular cabinet systems, achieving a sleek, handleless front is often the main goal. If you want to retrofit or replace fittings compatible with IKEA Besta, understanding hole spacing and the underlying mechanics is essential. Simply changing the front is not enough; the entire kinematics of the furniture unit must be adapted for handleless opening.

What to Look for Regarding Compatibility

Cabinet furniture from major manufacturers is generally based on standardised dimensions. This makes finding suitable replacement parts and functional upgrades much easier.

System 32 and Hole Spacing

The industry-wide System 32 is the foundation for most modern cabinet carcasses. It defines the spacing of pre-drilled holes in the side panel. The distance from hole centre to hole centre is exactly 32 mm. The standard distance from the front cabinet edge to the centre of the first row of holes is 37 mm. The hole diameter for shelf supports or mounting screws is usually 5 mm. If you are looking for an alternative to IKEA Besta fittings or adding components, you can rely on this grid. Hinge mounting plates and drawer runners use these exact measurements.

Cup Drilling and Cranking Types

For doors, the diameter of the cup hole in the front panel is decisive. This is standard at 35 mm. Alongside the diameter, the door overlay type is crucial when choosing the correct hinge:

• Full overlay: The door sits completely in front of the carcass side.
• Half overlay (twin overlay): Two doors share a single central carcass divider.
• Inset: The door sits flush with the inner edge of the carcass.

Suitable Components for Converting to Push-to-Open

Converting requires specific fittings, depending on whether you have a hinged door, a drawer, or a flap. The mechanism works like a ballpoint pen clicker: one push tensions the internal spring, and the next release triggers the catch to pop the front open.

1. Hinged Doors: Hinges and Touch Latches

A common mistake when retrofitting is keeping the old hinges. Unlike concealed hinges / cabinet hinges with soft close, which actively pull the door shut and brake it, push-to-open strictly requires unsprung hinges (without a spring catch).

If a spring is still active in the hinge, the push latch will not have enough force to push the door open. You therefore need free-swinging concealed hinges / cabinet hinges. For standard cabinet doors, concealed hinges / cabinet hinges 110 degrees are generally suitable. The push latch itself is screwed into the System 32 grid inside the carcass or clipped into an adapter plate.

2. Drawers: Runners with Integrated Ejection Mechanisms

For drawers, the mechanism is built directly into the guide rail. You must dismantle the existing runners and replace them with drawer runners push to open.

The nominal length of the runner is decisive here. A typical living room cabinet has a depth of around 400 mm. The runner must be slightly shorter than the internal depth of the carcass; typical lengths are between 300 mm and 350 mm. Pay attention to the extension type as well: a full extension runner pulls 100% out of the carcass, whereas a single extension runner stops at around 75%. For full access to drawer contents, full extension is technically superior.

3. Flaps: Gas Struts and Flap Stays

When the cabinet is used as a TV sideboard, horizontally opening flaps are often used. For upward-opening fronts, you need a flap stay or gas strut to hold the door open.

If you convert this setup to handleless, you will need gas struts for heavy flaps paired with a strong push latch. The strength of a gas strut is specified in Newtons (N). The correct rating depends on the weight and height of the flap. Standard values for engineered wood fronts (such as chipboard or MDF) range between 60 N and 120 N. For downward-opening flaps (drinks cabinets), you require specialised flap fittings with a braking function so the flap does not drop down uncontrolled.

Installation and Retrofitting: Step-by-Step

This modification is straightforward for any keen DIYer with basic tools. Assembly time per front is typically 15 to 30 minutes.

Required Tools

• Cordless screwdriver with matching bits (usually PZ 2 or PH 2)
• Tape measure or folding rule
• Bradawl or a 3 mm wood drill bit
• Screwdriver for fine adjustment

Step 1: Removing Old Fittings

Remove the existing fronts. Loosen the screws holding the cruciform mounting plates to the inside of the carcass. For drawers, pull out the drawer box and release the catches on the underside or sides.

Step 2: Installing Push-to-Open Hinges (Doors)

Insert the new unsprung hinges into the 35 mm cup hole on the door. Ensure the hinge is aligned exactly at a 90-degree angle to the door edge. Fasten the new mounting plates into the existing 5 mm holes in the carcass hole line. Clip the door into place.

Step 3: Installing the Push Latch

Position the push latch on the opening side of the door (opposite the hinges). It should be mounted at the point where you intend to press—usually centred or in the upper third. Use a bradawl to mark the screw positions. Fasten the bracket using chipboard screws (e.g. 3.5 x 16 mm). Slide the latch housing onto the baseplate.

Step 4: Fine Adjustment

Most push latches feature a threaded tip. By turning the tip, the trigger gap can be adjusted continuously between 1 mm and 4 mm. Adjust the pin so that a minimal gap of approximately 2 mm to 3 mm remains between the cabinet carcass and the closed door. This gap is essential, as the door must be pushed inward slightly to trigger the release mechanism.

For drawers with integrated push-to-open, front tilt and height adjustment are usually carried out without tools using thumbwheels directly on the undermount runner or lateral ball bearing runner.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Can I combine soft-close and push-to-open? As a rule, these two mechanisms are mutually exclusive. Soft-close dampens the door and pulls it shut, whereas push-to-open pushes it open. While complex hybrid systems exist on the market, keeping them strictly separate (either handleless with push-to-open OR handles with soft-close) is the technical standard for modular furniture retrofits.

Which screws should I use for fixing inside the carcass? If you use the existing 5 mm System 32 holes, you will need specialised Euro screws (usually 6.3 mm in diameter). If you drill new pilot holes into the side panel, use standard countersunk wood screws with a 3.5 mm or 4 mm diameter and a maximum length of 16 mm to prevent punching through the 18 mm thick side panel. Ensure you use the correct drive type (PZ or TX) to prevent cam-out.

How do I calculate the required Newton rating for my gas strut? The holding force in Newtons is calculated roughly from the weight of the flap front including any handle. As a rule of thumb, 1 kg of weight equates to roughly 10 N. For a 4 kg flap, you need a total force of at least 40 N to 50 N. Because gas struts are typically installed in pairs, two struts rated at 50 N to 60 N each will ensure secure holding and smooth opening.

Why is the push-to-open mechanism not triggering reliably? This is usually caused by an insufficient trigger gap. If the door already sits tightly flush against the carcass, it cannot be pressed inward far enough to release the catch. Turn the push latch pin slightly inward to increase the door gap to roughly 2.5 mm. Also, check that the door is not being held back by old spring-loaded hinges.