Retrofitting Soft-Close Drawer Runners for Pelipal Kitchens

A soft-close mechanism cushions the momentum of a drawer across the final few centimetres and pulls it silently and automatically into its closed final position.

Upgrading Drawers Suitable for Pelipal Kitchens

When the drawer mechanics in existing kitchen cabinets wear out or become outdated, a technical upgrade is the obvious solution. Retrofitting cushioned runners is a standard task in furniture and kitchen construction. Fitters and joiners often search for components that can serve as replacements for Pelipal or other established kitchen brands. It is not strictly necessary to rely on manufacturer-specific original parts. The decisive factor for a successful replacement is the exact technical match of the fittings with regard to installation dimensions, hole patterns, and load capacity.

The damper inside the runner acts like a shock absorber in a car, gently catching the kinetic energy of the closing drawer and dissipating it in a controlled manner. To retrofit this effect, the entire runner guide system must be replaced.

What to Consider Regarding Compatibility

To ensure that new runner guides are compatible with Pelipal cabinets, the exact specifications of the carcass and the existing drawer must be determined before disassembly.

The System 32 and Hole Spacing

Most modern kitchen cabinets are based on the System 32 standard. This means that pre-drilled holes in the carcass side panels are spaced exactly 32 mm apart. The distance from the front cabinet edge to the first row of holes is typically 37 mm. If the new runners support this grid, installation is possible without the need for time-consuming re-drilling in the cabinet carcass.

Runner Length and Carcass Depth

The nominal length of the runner must match the depth of the drawer box. Standard lengths in kitchen applications range from 250 mm to 800 mm. For standard base units, runners with a length of 450 mm or 500 mm are most commonly used. The internal depth of the carcass must always be at least 3 mm to 5 mm greater than the nominal length of the runner so that it closes flush.

Full Extension vs. Partial Extension

A partial extension runner pulls out to roughly 75% of the carcass depth. The rear section of the drawer remains concealed inside the cabinet. A full extension runner, on the other hand, provides 100% travel. The drawer can be pulled entirely clear of the front edge of the cabinet, significantly improving access to all contents. When upgrading, switching to the full extension variant is technically straightforward in most cases, provided the installation width (lateral clearance) remains identical.

Runner Types and Lateral Space Requirements

• Ball bearing runners: These runners mount to the sides of the drawer box. As a rule, they require an exact clearance of 12.7 mm per side (often rounded to 13 mm).
• Undermount runners: This mechanism sits concealed beneath the drawer base. It requires specific cut-outs in the rear panel of the drawer box and a defined recess of the base. Switching from side-mounted ball bearing runners to undermount technology usually requires building a new timber drawer box.

Suitable Runners and Slides (Alternatives and Replacements)

For a professional replacement, the market offers standardised solutions that serve as alternatives to Pelipal components. Selection depends on the width of the kitchen cabinet and the required load capacity, which typically ranges between 30 kg and 45 kg for kitchen drawers.

If you are replacing traditional roller runners, it is best to opt directly for soft-close drawer runners. These integrate the dampening mechanism straight into the runner profile. For maximum visibility inside the cabinet, full extension drawer runners are recommended.

Particularly with high-quality kitchen fronts, concealed hardware is preferred. Undermount drawer runners are used here, clipping beneath the drawer box to remain hidden from view when the drawer is open.

For specific cabinet widths, such as when replacing complete wire baskets or internal pull-outs, fittings must be matched to the internal clear width of the carcass. Pre-configured kitchen pull-outs are available for this purpose. Sizing corresponds to the external cabinet dimensions. A 60 cm kitchen pull-out is engineered precisely to fit a carcass with a 600 mm external width (with 16 mm or 18 mm side panels) using the appropriate spacers.

Tools Required for the Replacement

The following tools are required for dismantling and installing the fittings:

• Cordless drill/driver
• Matching screwdriver bits (usually PZ for chipboard screws or TX for modern wood screws)
• Folding rule or tape measure
• Spirit level (short)
• Bradawl or centre punch for marking drill points
• Screwdriver for fine adjustment

Installation and Retrofitting: Step-by-Step

Replacing side-mounted runners follows a straightforward technical process.

1. Disassembly: Remove the old drawer (with ball bearing runners, this is often done by pressing a small release lever on the runner). Then unscrew the old cabinet rails from the carcass.
2. Measuring and Marking: Mark the position of the new runners on the carcass. If the new runners have been selected to match Pelipal hole spacing, the existing 5 mm holes of the 32 mm grid can be used with Euro screws. Otherwise, mark the height using a spirit level and punch the locations with a bradawl.
3. Fitting the Carcass Rails: Screw the rail to the side panel. Ensure the correct setback (distance from the front edge) is maintained so the drawer front closes flush against the cabinet.
4. Fitting the Drawer Rails: Secure the corresponding runner component to the side of the drawer box. For undermount runners, screw the locking clips into the front corners under the drawer base instead.
5. Insertion and Adjustment: Slide the drawer onto the carcass rails until the mechanism audibly clicks into place. Modern undermount systems feature thumbwheels on the clips to fine-tune the tilt and height of the front panel by millimetres until the gaps are perfectly aligned.

Don't Forget the Hinges

When upgrading drawers to soft-close runners, it is often worthwhile reviewing the cabinet doors as well. A consistent user feel is only achieved when doors close smoothly too. Soft-close concealed cabinet hinges can be retrofitted for this purpose.

Here too, a concealed hinge used as an alternative for Pelipal hinges must feature the same cup diameter (typically 35 mm). For standard kitchen doors with a full overlay (where the door fully covers the carcass edge), a 110-degree cabinet hinge is standard. The 110° opening angle provides ample clearance for everyday kitchen use.

FAQ: Frequently Asked Questions About Replacing Drawer Runners

Are soft-close and push-to-open the same thing? No. Soft-close is a dampening mechanism that brakes an actively pushed drawer and pulls it smoothly shut. Push-to-open (or tip-on) is an ejection mechanism for handleless fronts that releases the drawer after a light push against the front. Both systems work in opposite mechanical ways and can only be combined using specialised, complex hardware.

Can I retrofit soft-close mechanisms to any old drawer? Technically yes, provided the side or bottom clearance required by the new runners matches the dimensions of the existing wooden drawer box and carcass. When changing from roller runners to ball bearing runners, the required gap of around 13 mm per side typically remains the same.

What screws should I use for fixing into the carcass? If using pre-drilled holes (Ø 5 mm) in the 32 mm grid, dedicated Euro screws are required. If screwing directly into the chipboard material, use standard countersunk chipboard screws (Ø 3.5 mm or 4 mm), ideally with a PZ drive.

How do I determine the correct runner length? Measure the depth of the existing drawer box (from the outer rear face to the inner front face). The nominal length of the new runner should match this measurement or be slightly shorter. The runner must never exceed the clear internal depth of the cabinet carcass.