Retrofitting Concealed Hinges for Pelipal Kitchens

A concealed hinge with a 35 mm cup diameter and a matching hole pattern based on System 32 is ideal as a direct replacement for defective or outdated kitchen hinges.

When cabinet doors in the kitchen sag, rub, or slam loudly against the carcass when closing, the hardware mechanism is usually worn out. Anyone looking for replacement parts suitable for Pelipal requires fittings that match the exact technical specifications of the existing cabinet carcass. A complete replacement of the furniture is not necessary, as long as the drilling hole rows in the wood remain intact. Upgrading to modern concealed hinges with integrated soft-close mechanisms enhances existing cabinets technically and restores the smooth operation of the front panels.

What to Look for Regarding Compatibility

To identify an accurate alternative to Pelipal hinges, installers and DIY enthusiasts must measure the existing routings and drill holes precisely. Compatibility is determined by three essential technical parameters that must strictly match during selection.

1. Cup Diameter and Drilling Depth

The standard dimension for the cup drilling in kitchen fronts is 35 mm. Smaller variants with 26 mm are rarely found on solid standard kitchen doors and are more commonly used on lightweight bathroom or living room furniture. The depth of the cup hole is generally 11.5 mm to 12.5 mm. Another crucial measurement is the drilling distance (C dimension / cup distance). This describes the distance from the edge of the cup hole to the outer edge of the cabinet door and typically ranges between 3 mm and 7 mm.

2. Hole Pattern and System 32

The mounting of the cruciform mounting plate in the carcass is almost universally carried out in industrial furniture construction according to System 32. This means the centre-to-centre distance between the drill holes in the side panel of the cabinet is exactly 32 mm. In addition, the front row of holes is positioned as standard 37 mm away from the front edge of the carcass. If these measurements match, new mounting plates can be screwed directly into the existing drill holes without issue.

3. The Correct Overlay Type

The overlay type defines how the door is positioned on the cabinet carcass when closed. This is a frequent source of confusion that can make installation impossible:

• Full overlay: The door rests over the side panel of the carcass and covers the front edge. This is the most common variant on freestanding cabinets or at the ends of a kitchen run.
• Half overlay: Also known as twin or dual mounting. Two doors share a single central partition in the carcass (twin doors). The hinge arm is cranked so that each door only covers half of the front edge of the central partition.
• Inset: The door sits inside the cabinet opening. It does not overlay the side panels, but instead sits flush between the base, top panel, and side walls.

4. Opening Angle

Standard doors on base units and wall units typically use hinges with an opening angle of 95° or 110°. For corner units or cabinets where internal pull-out drawers are fitted, wide-angle hinges with 155° or 165° are required so that the open door does not obstruct the pull-outs.

Suitable furnica Parts for the Kitchen Upgrade

Anyone modernising their kitchen and retrofitting fittings compatible with Pelipal nowadays chooses hinges with soft-close almost exclusively. This integrated damper catches the door just before it closes and pulls it silently against the carcass over the final centimetres. This mechanism works like a hydraulic shock absorber on a car, preventing material wear caused by slamming fronts. Note: A soft-close mechanism must not be confused with a push-to-open mechanism, as both systems operate on opposite physical principles.

In practice, replacing hinges is often an ideal opportunity to carry out further functional adjustments in the kitchen area. Once the door panels are already removed and resting on the workbench for hinge replacement, new kitchen furniture handles can be accurately measured and fitted.

Particularly with base cabinets, it is worth looking inside behind the newly adjusted door. Instead of reaching deep into the unit, kitchen cabinet pull-outs can be retrofitted. For the classic standard dimension of European kitchens, a kitchen cabinet pull-out 60 cm is ideal, significantly improving day-to-day ergonomics. Modern waste management systems, such as a kitchen recycling bin, can also be neatly hidden behind a correctly adjusted door and mounted directly to the side panel or base.

If the furniture unit is a wall cabinet featuring an upward-opening flap rather than a traditional hinged door, concealed cup hinges are not used; instead, gas struts for heavy flaps are fitted. The force of these stays is measured in Newtons (N). The rating (e.g. 250 N or 380 N) must be selected to match the weight and height of the MDF or chipboard front panel precisely. Inside the wall unit itself, the newly gained, unobstructed space can then be used efficiently with an internal dish drainer rack for wall cabinets.

Installation and Retrofitting: Step-by-Step Guide

Replacing concealed hinges requires precision, but can be completed smoothly using standard tools.

Required Tools

• Cordless screwdriver or manual cross-head screwdriver (check drive type: PZ for Pozidriv or PH for Phillips)
• Folding rule or tape measure
• Set square
• If necessary, a 35 mm Forstner bit, should new cup holes need to be bored in unfinished fronts

Step-by-Step Instructions

1. Removal of old fittings: Remove the old hinges by loosening the screws on the mounting plate inside the carcass. If a modern clip-on system is in place, simply pressing the rear release button on the hinge arm is usually enough to detach the door and hinge from the plate.
2. Validate dimensions: Check the diameter of the cup hole in the door (35 mm) and the centre distance of the drill holes in the carcass (32 mm) with the ruler.
3. Fix the mounting plate: Screw the new mounting plates into the carcass. For existing 5 mm holes, dedicated Euro screws are used. If only small pilot holes exist in the timber, standard chipboard screws (e.g. 4 x 16 mm or 3.5 x 15 mm) are used.
4. Insert the hinge cup: Press the hinge into the 35 mm recess on the door. Use the set square to ensure the hinge is aligned exactly at a 90-degree angle to the door edge. Then secure it with two screws.
5. Hang the door: Guide the door towards the carcass. Slide the hinge onto the mounting plate from the front and clip it into place at the rear (with an audible click), or fix it using the retaining screw on older systems.
6. Perform 3D adjustment: Correct the door alignment and reveal gaps using the three adjustment screws on the hinge arm.

• Depth adjustment: Regulates the gap between the door and the carcass (approx. +/- 2 mm).
• Height adjustment: Usually adjusted via the slotted holes in the mounting plate to move the door up or down.
• Lateral adjustment: Controls the side overlay and corrects uneven gaps between adjacent doors.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Can I simply retrofit soft-close hinges to older cabinets? Yes, provided that the cup diameter (usually 35 mm) and the hole pattern of the mounting plate (System 32) match the existing carcass. The damping mechanism is integrated directly into the hinge arm and requires no additional drilling.

How do I determine whether I need full overlay or half overlay hinges? Measure the front edge of the carcass side panel. If the closed door completely covers the side panel (usually 16 mm or 19 mm thick), it is a full overlay. If two doors share a centre partition and each door only covers half of the front edge (approx. 8 mm to 9 mm), a half overlay is required.

Why does my cabinet door fail to close properly after replacing the hinges? This is usually down to alignment. Use the depth adjustment screw on the hinge arm to slightly increase the gap between the door and the carcass. If the gap is too narrow, the door will bind against the wood on the hinge side.

Can I install a cruciform mounting plate with wood screws into 5 mm holes? No. If 5 mm holes (system hole line) are pre-drilled in the carcass, Euro screws must be used. Standard chipboard screws (e.g. 4 mm diameter) will not grip securely in these larger holes and would pull out under load.