Assembling the EMIL Highboard — Step-by-Step Assembly Guide

Assembling the EMIL highboard requires a methodical approach, the right tools, and takes an experienced DIYer around 90 to 120 minutes.

The EMIL highboard is a classic storage solution for narrow spaces. Featuring a slim depth of often just 30 cm to 35 cm and a compact width of 70 cm or 75 cm, for instance, it fits seamlessly into narrow hallways or tight living room alcoves. Constructed from sturdy chipboard with a melamine coating – frequently in a Wotan Oak finish or a matt black look – this unit is engineered for everyday durability.

This guide walks you step by step through the assembly process, from preparing your tools to the final door alignment. These principles apply to virtually all highboards of this construction style.

Required Tools and Preparation

A seamless build starts with proper preparation. Assembling furniture is like solving a mechanical puzzle – forcing components is always the wrong approach if a piece does not slot in straight away. Ensure you have a clear, clean floor space to work on. Lay out the flattened cardboard packaging or a blanket as a protective underlay to prevent scratches on the panels.

Have the following tools ready:

  • Cross-head screwdriver (PZ or PH profile, depending on the supplied screws)
  • Small rubber mallet (for wooden dowels)
  • Tape measure or folding rule
  • Spirit level
  • Drill and suitable masonry bit (for the wall mounting)
  • Optional: Cordless screwdriver (use only on a low torque setting to avoid damaging the wood)

Before starting, check the contents against the included parts list. Sort all screws, shelf supports, and hinges into small bowls. This prevents searching around for small hardware fittings during assembly.

Step-by-Step Assembly

Step 1: Assembling the Carcase

The carcase forms the core framework. Connecting the side panels to the base and top panel is typically achieved using wooden dowels and cam lock connectors.

  1. If needed, apply a tiny drop of wood glue into the pre-drilled dowel holes. Gently tap the wooden dowels into the end edges of the internal and base panels using the rubber mallet.
  2. Screw the connecting connecting bolts of the cam lock connectors into the designated small holes on the side panels. Ensure they are inserted straight.
  3. Slide the base panel, top panel, and any fixed intermediate shelves onto the bolts on the side panel.
  4. Insert the round cam lock housings into the large drill holes of the horizontal panels. Ensure the small arrow on the housing points towards the bolt.
  5. Turn the cam locks roughly 180° clockwise using a screwdriver until you feel them lock securely into place. The panels are now joined seamlessly.

Step 2: Fitting the Back Panel

The back panel provides the cabinet with its final structural rigidity and prevents it from twisting.

  1. Place the assembled carcase face down onto your protective underlay.
  2. Position the back panel (usually a thin HDF board) flush against the frame.
  3. Use the tape measure to check both diagonals of the carcase (from corner to corner). If both measurements are identical down to the millimetre, the cabinet is completely square.
  4. Nail or screw the back panel in place. Start in one corner, work along a long edge, and continuously recheck the squareness. The spacing between nails should be around 10 cm to 15 cm.

Step 3: Fitting the Feet or Plinth

Before standing the unit upright, install the furniture feet. Depending on the EMIL model, these may be low-profile plastic glides or taller, angled legs. Secure them through the pre-drilled holes in the underside of the base. For a black highboard with matching black metal feet, take care not to over-tighten the screws, as the metal thread can otherwise strip the wood.

Now, stand the carcase upright with the help of a second person.

Step 4: Hanging the Doors and Fitting Hinges

The doors are mounted using standard concealed cup hinges. The standard diameter for the hinge cup hole in the door is 35 mm.

  1. Press the hinge cup into the large hole on the door and secure it with the small supplied chipboard screws (frequently 3.5 mm x 15 mm).
  2. Fasten the cruciform mounting plate to the pre-drilled holes on the inside of the carcase.
  3. Bring the door up to the carcase and slide the hinge arm onto the mounting plate. With modern clip-on hinges, the arm engages with an audible click. On older systems, tighten the fixing screw on the hinge arm.
  4. On models designed with a full overlay, the closed door sits flush over the carcase side edge.

Step 5: Inserting the Shelves

Inside the cabinet, you will find vertical lines of pre-drilled holes known as System 32. The distance between the holes is exactly 32 mm. Insert the small metal or plastic shelf supports at the desired height (usually 5 mm diameter). Then, rest the shelves securely on top.

Wall Mounting and Anti-Tip Protection

A slim unit standing over 100 cm high with a depth of only 30 cm to 35 cm has a high centre of gravity – especially when the doors are opened or heavy items are placed on the upper shelves. Wall fixing is essential.

  1. Position the highboard in its final location.
  2. Align it accurately using a spirit level. Use small levelling shims if the floor is uneven.
  3. Mark the position for the anti-tip bracket on the wall. A simple metal bracket or textile strap is commonly supplied.
  4. Drill the hole in the wall, insert a suitable wall plug (e.g. for masonry or plasterboard), and screw the bracket firmly to the wall and the top panel of the cabinet.

This safety measure applies to all taller highboards and is vital for stability.

Tips and Common Pitfalls

  • Doors rubbing or misaligned: This is the most common issue after assembly. Concealed hinges can be adjusted across three dimensions. The front screw on the hinge arm adjusts the lateral position (the gap between door and carcase). The rear screw adjusts depth (distance from the door to the carcase). The screws on the cruciform mounting plate allow vertical height adjustment, typically by +/- 2 mm.
  • Screws spinning loose: If using a cordless screwdriver, set the clutch to a low torque. Chipboard is easily stripped. If a screw hole is already worn, a drop of wood glue mixed with fine sawdust can fill the gap before re-screwing.
  • Checking gaps and alignment: Before making final door adjustments, the unit must be perfectly level and secured to the wall. An uneven floor twists the carcase, which directly distorts door gaps.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

How long does it take to assemble the EMIL highboard? An experienced DIYer will need around 90 minutes. If you assemble flat-pack furniture infrequently, allow around two hours. Ideally, work with a second person, especially when lifting the carcase upright.

What should I do if a hardware component is missing? First, inspect all packaging materials thoroughly. Small bags containing hardware fittings often hide in cardboard folds. If a cam lock connector or hinge is genuinely missing, note down the part number from the assembly manual to source a precise replacement.

Can I hang the doors on the opposite side? That depends on the pre-drilled holes. On many models, especially compact single-door highboards, the side panels feature symmetrical drillings. If so, you can mount the cruciform mounting plate on the opposite side.

How should I clean the surfaces after assembly? Wipe away sawdust and fingerprints using a soft, slightly damp cloth. Especially on a matt black highboard, avoid aggressive cleaning agents or coarse microfibre cloths, as these can scratch the melamine surface.

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