Assembling the JOELLE Wardrobe — Assembly Instructions

Assembling the JOELLE wardrobe requires systematic preparation, the right tools, and is ideally completed by two people to handle the large components safely.

The JOELLE model range is among the versatile wardrobe solutions designed for bedrooms, hallways, or guest rooms. Depending on the selected variant – from the compact wardrobe 120 cm wide up to the spacious wardrobe 200 cm wide for two people – the number of components varies. However, the fundamental construction using robust chipboard with a durable finish remains identical across all models.

These instructions guide you step by step through the assembly process for the standard version with hinged doors. This applies regardless of whether you have chosen a model in anthracite, concrete effect, or a classic wooden wardrobe.

Preparation and Required Tools

Assembling large furniture is like a jigsaw puzzle – sorting out the edges and small hardware first keeps everything clear and saves time later. Unpack all boxes at the final location of the wardrobe. Moving the fully assembled carcass later can put excessive strain on the joints or scratch the floor.

Have the following tools ready:

• Pozi/cross-head screwdriver (sizes PZ 2 and PH 2)
• Flat-head screwdriver (for the cam lock fittings)
• Rubber mallet (for wooden dowels)
• Spirit level (at least 60 cm in length)
• Tape measure or folding ruler
• Cordless screwdriver (use only with a low torque setting)
• Step ladder

Pre-sort the fittings from the hardware bag. Separate the wooden dowels, cam lock fittings (consisting of cam connecting bolts and cam lock casings), wood screws, shelf supports, and the concealed cup hinges for the doors.

Step-by-Step Assembly Instructions

Always work on the floor when assembling the carcass. Use the empty cardboard boxes as an underlay to protect the finish of the panels from scratches.

Step 1: Assemble the Plinth and Base Panel

Start with the base construction. Insert the wooden dowels into the pre-drilled holes of the plinth panels. A gentle tap with a rubber mallet helps if the dowels fit tightly. Screw the connecting bolts of the cam lock fittings into the base panel. Now slide the plinth panels onto the bolts and turn the circular casings of the connectors roughly 180° clockwise using a flat-head screwdriver until they tighten securely.

Step 2: Attach Side Panels and Centre Partitions

Lay the left side panel flat on the floor. Attach the base panel (including the mounted plinth) at a right angle to the side panel. Dowels and cam lock fittings are used here once again.

If your model is wider and features one or more centre partitions, fit these next. Pay close attention to the alignment of the hole lines – the System 32 (drilling line spaced at 32 mm intervals) must start at the exact same height on all vertical panels so that the shelves sit level later. Finish the carcass by attaching the right side panel and finally placing and locking the top panel.

Step 3: Fasten the Back Panel (Squaring the Carcass)

The back panel gives the wardrobe its structural rigidity. Before nailing or screwing it down, the carcass must be aligned completely square. To check this, measure both diagonals of the lying wardrobe with a tape measure (from the top left to the bottom right corner, and vice versa). The carcass is square when both measurements match to the exact millimetre.

Lay the back panel (often made from thin MDF board) flush against the edges. Nail it securely along the perimeter at intervals of roughly 15 cm. On models with a centre partition, the back panel must also be nailed precisely along the centre line of the inner partition.

Step 4: Stand the Wardrobe Upright

This step requires two people. Carefully tilt the wardrobe upright over its long edge. Ensure that the wardrobe does not pivot over a single corner point, as this can tear out the base panel. Slide the wardrobe into its final position against the wall.

Check with the spirit level that the furniture stands perfectly straight. On uneven floors, you may need to insert small shims beneath the plinth. An unlevel wardrobe inevitably leads to jamming doors later.

Step 5: Fit the Internal Fittings

Insert the shelf supports (usually with a diameter of 5 mm) into the desired positions of the hole line. Lay the shelves in place. Mount the wardrobe rail end brackets onto the side panels using the included chipboard screws (typically 3.5 x 15 mm). The hanging rail is then simply hooked into the brackets from above. Further wardrobe accessories such as additional drawer inserts or tie racks can also be integrated at this stage in accordance with the manufacturer specifications.

Step 6: Hang and Align the Doors

The doors of the JOELLE series are fitted using concealed hinges. First, screw the cruciform mounting plates onto the marked positions on the side panels. Press the round cups of the concealed cup hinges into the 35 mm drill holes on the doors and screw them tight.

Depending on the position of the door, a different hinge type is used:

• External doors use a full overlay hinge (the door completely overlays the side panel).
• Centre doors on multi-section wardrobes often use a half overlay hinge (two doors share a single centre partition).

Guide the hinges on the door onto the mounting plates on the carcass and tighten the fixing screw.

Strictly Required: Wall Fixing (Anti-Tip Device)

A wardrobe with a typical depth of 50 cm and a height of 180 cm or more has a high centre of gravity. When the doors are opened, the weight shifts forwards. To prevent dangerous tipping, the wardrobe must be anchored to the wall.

Use the included metal bracket. Fix it to the top panel of the wardrobe and drill a suitable hole into the wall. Always use wall plugs and screws specifically designed for your wall type (concrete, brickwork, plasterboard).

Fine-Tuning the Doors: 3D Adjustment

Even when the wardrobe is level, the doors often hang slightly out of alignment after initial installation. The concealed cup hinge can be adjusted in three directions:

1. Height: Slightly loosen both screws on the cruciform mounting plate, slide the door up or down, and re-tighten the screws.
2. Depth (gap to the carcass): Loosen the rear screw on the hinge arm. Move the door closer to the carcass or further away (optimum gap: approx. 2 mm).
3. Side (lateral alignment): Turn the front adjustment screw on the hinge arm. This tilts the door to the left or right, ensuring that the reveal between two doors runs parallel.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) Regarding Assembly

Can I assemble the JOELLE wardrobe on my own? Preparing and joining the individual panels on the floor can be done alone. From Step 4 onwards – standing the carcass upright – a second person is strictly required. The weight and leverage are too great for a single person.

The wardrobe is built, but it wobbles slightly. What should I do? Check the back panel. If the back panel is not nailed down with enough fixings or the carcass was not square when it was attached, structural diagonal rigidity is missing. Also check that the base is level using a spirit level.

Is the series suitable for narrow rooms? The JOELLE models with a depth of around 50 cm are designed to save space. For compact hallways or alcoves, a small wardrobe from this series is suitable. If the floor clearance in front of the wardrobe is insufficient to open hinged doors, you should alternatively consider a wardrobe with sliding doors.

Can I adjust the height of the shelves later? Yes. Thanks to the continuous system holes, you can pull out the shelf supports at any time and reinsert them at a different height. Empty the respective shelf completely before doing so.

(Note: For specific hardware add-ons, replacement fittings, or alternative finishes such as a grey wardrobe, please verify the compatibility of the respective part specifications against the technical data.)