Assembling the MIKEL Highboard — Assembly Instructions

Proper assembly of the MIKEL highboard requires careful preparation of the cam lock fittings and mandatory wall anchoring, as narrow cabinet carcasses with a shallow depth are unstable without anti-tip protection.

Assembling a piece of furniture is much like a mechanical puzzle – every part has its exact place, and brute force is never the right tool. Following the logical sequence of assembly steps ensures that gap margins remain accurate and the unit stays stable for years to come. This guide walks you through the systematic assembly of the MIKEL series.

Whether the unit is used as compact storage in a hallway or as an addition to the living room: the construction is based on melamine-faced chipboard. Popular finishes such as the Highboard Black with a matt surface or variants in Wotan Oak decor all follow the same mechanical principle. Working with precision during assembly is especially vital for models designed as slim furniture pieces, often featuring a depth of only 30 cm or 35 cm.

Preparation and Contents

Before driving the first screw, sort your components. Unpack all boxes flat on the floor. Use the cardboard packaging as an underlay to prevent scratches on the components or your flooring.

Check the included parts list to ensure all wooden panels and hardware fittings are complete. Separate the screws, wooden dowels, and hinges into small containers. This saves time searching for parts later on.

Required Tools

You do not need a fully equipped workshop for this build. The following hand tools are sufficient for safe assembly:

• Cross-head screwdriver (size PZ2 for almost all furniture fittings)
• Rubber mallet (for gently tapping in dowels)
• Folding rule or tape measure
• Spirit level
• Cordless screwdriver (use only on a low torque setting)
• Drill and masonry drill bit (for subsequent wall mounting)

Step-by-Step Guide: Assembling the MIKEL Highboard

1. Assembling the Carcass

Assembly always begins with the outer frame. Lay the side panels flat on the floor. Tap the wooden dowels into the pre-drilled holes. Use the rubber mallet for this and ensure that the dowels sit roughly halfway into the wood.

Now screw the metal connecting bolts of the cam lock fittings into the designated small holes (usually 5 mm in diameter). Next, position the base and top panels onto the side panels. Insert the round cam lock housings into the large drill holes of the cross panels. Using the cross-head screwdriver, tighten the cam housings clockwise until they noticeably lock into place (typically after half a turn). The carcass is now structurally stable.

2. Attaching the Back Panel

The back panel provides highboards with their square rigidity. Without it, the carcass would twist sideways. Carefully turn the carcass over onto the cardboard with the open front facing downwards.

Place the back panel (usually made of thin MDF) accurately in position. Before driving in the first nail, measure the diagonals of the carcass with the tape measure. The distance from the top-left corner to the bottom-right corner must be exactly identical to the distance from the top-right to the bottom-left corner. Only when these measurements match is the cabinet perfectly square. Now nail the back panel along the outer edges at intervals of around 15 cm.

3. Attaching the Furniture Feet

While the cabinet is still lying on the floor, fit the furniture legs. Depending on the specific model from the MIKEL series, these are either screwed into the base panel using simple wood screws (usually 3.5 x 15 mm) or inserted into pre-drilled holes. Align the feet parallel to the outer edges. After this, you can lift the unit upright with two people.

4. Mounting Concealed Hinges and Doors

The doors in this series are secured using a classic concealed cup hinge. The standard cup hole diameter in the door is 35 mm.

1. Press the hinge cup into the large drilled hole on the door.
2. Align the hinge at a 90-degree angle to the door edge and secure it with the supplied screws.
3. Screw the cruciform mounting plates onto the inner sides of the carcass walls. The holes for this are pre-drilled at the factory.
4. Position the hinge arms of the door onto the mounting plates inside the carcass and fix them in place. On modern clip-on hinges, these will click audibly into position under gentle pressure.

Since the outer doors use a full overlay, the door completely covers the carcass side when closed.

5. Inserting the Shelves

Inside the cabinet, there are rows of holes. These are based on the standardised System 32, where the distance between drill holes is exactly 32 mm. Insert the metal shelf supports into the 5 mm holes at your desired height. You will need four supports per shelf. Then simply place the shelves on top.

Wall Mounting and Anti-Tip Protection

Stability is a critical factor for furniture with a depth of 30 cm to 35 cm. When doors are opened, the centre of gravity shifts forward. A loaded highboard can easily tip over as a result.

You must securely anchor the unit to the wall. Use the supplied metal angle brackets for this purpose. Place the bracket on the top panel of the cabinet, mark the drill hole on the wall, drill the hole, and insert a suitable wall plug (usually 8 mm). Screw the bracket firmly to the wall and then to the top panel of the furniture piece.

Tips and Common Pitfalls

Misaligned door gaps: If the doors catch or the gap between them is uneven, the hinges must be adjusted. Every hinge offers three adjustment dimensions:

• Depth adjustment: Loosening the rear screw on the hinge arm allows you to move the door closer to or further away from the carcass.
• Height adjustment: Using the screws on the cruciform mounting plate, the entire door can be shifted up or down by around 2 mm.
• Side adjustment: The front screw on the hinge arm adjusts the lateral tilt of the door. Turning it clockwise moves the door edge towards the centre of the carcass.

Stripped screw holes: Cordless screwdrivers are handy, but risky with chipboard. Set your tool to a low torque. If a screw strips and loses grip, glue a small wooden splinter (or a matchstick) into the hole, allow the glue to dry, and drive the screw in again.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

How long does it take to assemble the MIKEL highboard? An experienced DIYer will need around 1.5 to 2 hours for assembly. If you assemble furniture rarely, plan for 2.5 to 3 hours.

Can I build the furniture on my own? The preparation and screwing together of individual components can easily be done alone. However, having a second person is strongly recommended for lifting the carcass upright and aligning it for wall mounting, in order to prevent damage to the materials.

Which version of the series suits my room? The choice depends on your available floor space. The compact MIKEL 80 is well suited for narrow hallways or small alcoves. If you need more storage for crockery or files and have sufficient wall space, consider wider configurations such as the MIKEL 120 or the spacious MIKEL 200. The basic assembly procedure remains identical across all widths.

Why do the doors not sit flush even though the hinges are adjusted correctly? Often the issue lies not with the hinge, but with the floor. If the floor is uneven, the entire carcass will twist. Use a spirit level to check whether the cabinet is completely level. If necessary, compensate for floor unevenness by placing small packing shims beneath the furniture feet before making final door adjustments.